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There is a reasonable size dynamo kit available which would save you some time making patterns. I expect the bearing supports could be modified if you wanted the spherical type. I have thought of an old bi-polar motor along these lines and have one part drawn up. More along the lines of some of...

Is there any reason why you are not listing #39 in the back issues section. I don't recall getting an email as I would have bought #39. and having had a subscription from the start in multiples of 4 issues I would have hoped 39 fell within the current sub.

The Trimble method can be found in old issues of Stricktly IC magazine. O rings are another option as is just getting a good fit between piston and cylinder in which case you don't even need rings.

I also use the "aluminium" inserts on all materials these days, they are ideal for the lighter hobby machines be that mill or lathe due to having a much "sharper" edge they put less strain on the machines be that turning load on the motor or making the machine flex and pushing the cutter off the...

You could think about getting the parts 3D printed in aluminium or stainless if you have the files, 0.065" wall should be OK

"The engine was scrapped and replaced with a DC motor." That will please Pat 😄 The controls sound similar to that engine I linked to a few posts earlier with the small valve and cylinder to operate the reversing gear from a remote position.

Nothing wrong with a long bar and often needed to give enough run out at the end of the bore. Main thing is that it is not too slender so use a decent diameter This one is 35mm dia x 625mm long, again running carbide but a CCGT insert in a microbore holder, cutting a 40mm bore at 525rpm The...

I use a between ctrs boring bar quite alot for cylinders. You look to have quite an overhung setup with the vertical slide, vice and work sticking well out of the vice. It would be better to either pack the job up on the cross slide or if you want to use a vice then mount that onto the cross...

Face and ctr drill the end so you can use a tailstoch ctr to support the work while the stem is turned, then do the back of the head which will probably need the topslide set at the 45deg angle. Saw off and hold in a collet to face the other end with gentle cuts, same to remove the ctr drill...

I would say it should be dimensioned 3/32" but it is not critical if you have already drilled it. It is indeed to take a peg to act as a stop for the two lugs on the valve to limit it's movement. You could just use a 5/32 peg or take a bit of 5/32" material and turn the end down to 3/32"...

Not a tandem but may be of interest https://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Reversing_rolling_mill_engine.html

Fair enough I did not see where it said white was used for stainless. Strange Harris mention stainless for the smaller sizes but not the large, Guess I looked at the large when I checked yesterday. large https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/sswf60 Small...

I suggested in the other thread where Hockeypuck asked that black flux was the one to get. The two reasons are that it will stay active for longer or if the part is overheated and it also works with stainless steel. These are the same properties that the UK Tenacity No5 or HT5 flux have and I...

I would raise it up off the surface so you can get the heat into that steel jig. Ideally use lightweigh vermiculite or similar insulating bricks and a sheet not a solid heavy fire brick. Did you see my reply to your other question about Silver Soldering in particular that you have the wrong solder.

Ignore all the hardness names in that video as jewelry solder which he is talking about uses different classifications

For a start you need silver solder not what you have in the picture. The name applies to the silver content not the actual colour of the alloy. As you are using Harriss products get some Safety-Silv 45 or Safety-Silv 56* solder and Stay-silv black flux Put the heat into your metal fixture...

Hope you are OK Brian, its all gone quiet. Any luck timing your engine?

I have made several engines to commission and turned down more. I have also thought about building 2 or 3 at a time as it would take less time than making them individually but it would really only provide pocket money in most cases as there are very few people who would pay a working wage if...

Having felt for a long time that anyone looking for their first casting kit will get lead down the imperial route even though it may not be familiar to them I decided to redraw the Clarkson 1″ x 1.5″ Horizontal in metric and while I was about it sort out the few anomalies and missing details...

No. I only got th basic 3D model done but not fully detailed. Did also make a small start on the 4" dia crankcase but lack of knowing what was happening inside at the time saw the project sidelined. I did see Doubleboosts videos so would have the info now but as I said earlier you can't really...