Bench grinder or belt sander?

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Looking again, the one I pictured doesn't show the disc table or belt rest. I think that's a "no" although I've asked the seller if he has them.
Depends what tools you already have to make replacements :)

Also depends on what you really need. I just cleaned off some welds with a flap disk on my small 4" angle grinder. Realizing that this might be a decent alternative four you, provided no extreme precision is required. I got new Hitachi or Makita 4" angle grinders for approx. 30 Euro.
Still for small work the belt sander is nicer and I think safer.
 
I have more than one sander, and more than one grinder and use them all.

I decided it might be relevant to put up my old thread on how I modified a HF 1 x 30 belt sander. Please note the age of the post, which makes all the prices obsolete. Current products also may be different as well.

https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/hf-1x30-belt-sander.17108/

It's on my list of potential projects to build a larger belt sander, but I'm currently doing fine without it at this time.

--ShopShoe
 
Slightly off topic - A Tip and a safety caution.

I found changing the self adhesive disks to be a major PITB of tiresome peeling, tearing and scraping - then I got the bright idea of heating it with a heavy butane torch - while it was running - great idea - the disk simply flew off.
Cool - no - really bad idea.
The disk came off because the adhesive was outgassing - the gasses caught fire and went tearing around my workshop like a demented Catherine Wheel.
Fortunately no harm done - undaunted - next time I repeated the experiment outdoors - still a bad idea to launch a flaming disk into your neighborhood.

My method now is to remove the table and cover and heat the stationary disk until it peels off easily by hand - any remaining adhesive can be scraped off (hot) with a paint scraper.
A final glue removal with thinners if required.
I've also found removing the Aluminium diskwheel itself and heating from behind the disk rather than through the abrasive tends to peel leaving a lot less adhesive behind.
Regards, Ken I
 
Slightly off topic - A Tip and a safety caution.

I found changing the self adhesive disks to be a major PITB of tiresome peeling, tearing and scraping - then I got the bright idea of heating it with a heavy butane torch - while it was running - great idea - the disk simply flew off.
Cool - no - really bad idea.
The disk came off because the adhesive was outgassing - the gasses caught fire and went tearing around my workshop like a demented Catherine Wheel.
Fortunately no harm done - undaunted - next time I repeated the experiment outdoors - still a bad idea to launch a flaming disk into your neighborhood.

My method now is to remove the table and cover and heat the stationary disk until it peels off easily by hand - any remaining adhesive can be scraped off (hot) with a paint scraper.
A final glue removal with thinners if required.
I've also found removing the Aluminium diskwheel itself and heating from behind the disk rather than through the abrasive tends to peel leaving a lot less adhesive behind.
Regards, Ken I
Hot air gun (one with more than just hot & hotter settings); work well on stubborn labels, too. No open flames.
 
Just off to see it. £35 locally, with 4 packs of belts. Needs a clean. I'll check it works there...

469645249_2946088502242804_1673787127958366524_n.jpeg
 
All good so far. Demo'd running. Small and can be carried in one hand.

Will clean it up and try it, but Christmas and family intercedes.

Strangely, the laser firm's production manager had recommended 120 grit so as not to go at the discs too fiercely and the 4 unopened packs of 5 belts are all 120 grit.
Would folks here agree that's a good choice?
 
I have a small belt sander, and have always wanted a larger one.
It is one of the more used tools in the shop, along with the vertical metal bandsaw.

I picked a 72" belt.
I designed it, got pretty far along, and then I think i started building a foundry, and put it aside.
I need to finish it.

Perhaps a bit too much crown in the top pulley, but I think it will work.
I wanted a vetical unit to minimize the footprint in the shop.
There is an adjustment up top to allow centering the sanding belt.
Tilting table.
Automotive bearings on the top pulley.

.
 

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Just off to see it. £35 locally, with 4 packs of belts. Needs a clean. I'll check it works there...

View attachment 162759
It looks identical to the 1” x 30” belt sanders that @Scott_M and I referred to, but the label (that they never removed) says “belt/disk;” is the disk hidden under the spare belts?
All good so far. Demo'd running. Small and can be carried in one hand.

Will clean it up and try it, but Christmas and family intercedes.

Strangely, the laser firm's production manager had recommended 120 grit so as not to go at the discs too fiercely and the 4 unopened packs of 5 belts are all 120 grit.
Would folks here agree that's a good choice?
Mine came with 80 grit, but for deburring your thin disks 120 would probably be better.

Interestingly, I was looking through the manual for the 1” x 30” and it says:

“Note: The Belt Sander is designed to sand only workpieces made of wood.”

https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/58000-58999/58359-193175437839.pdf

I’ve never had issues sanding metal, but I never push the limits on any of my equipment.
 
I normally use #60 & #80 but for thin metal edge - #120 is a good choice.
My machine states "Powerful 550W Motor" = hyperbole - Its just 550W or 2/3 HP no more no less.
As per Chazz's comments just be sensible and never overload it and keep an eye on the motor temperature during protracted use.
Hand test - if you can keep you hand on the motor its below 65°C - if you can't keep your hand on it, stop and let it cool down.
 

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