xander janssen
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Gear layout design.
De Industrie 2VD5
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xander janssen
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One year of progress. Had to learn some new techniques. When all continues to go so well, this engine will run in 1.5 to 2 years from now.
Xander,
You've accomplished a lot in a year. You've definitely captured the style of the engine you are modeling. It looks nice.
Chuck
You've accomplished a lot in a year. You've definitely captured the style of the engine you are modeling. It looks nice.
Chuck
xander janssen
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I'm indeed aiming to get as close as possible to the look of the real one.
In the design I try to use the same approach of the building blocks such to have functional bolt and studs in the correct places.
Once it is a running engine I will add more "fake" details e.g. mimic all the remaining nuts, bolts, oil lines etc of the real one.
xander janssen
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I found a very nice YouTube movie on how to create a con-rod with a cast appearance build from bar stock.
Based on that I made the following work flow picture:
Based on that I made the following work flow picture:
xander janssen
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Main bearing plates pre-machined in a package, now mounted for line boring to bring to size and improve concentricity.
Had to stop the cnc program after each pass to remove a birdsnest. Playing with feed, speed and depth of cut did not result in chip breaking.
Soft and tough material, but nice surface finish.
Had to stop the cnc program after each pass to remove a birdsnest. Playing with feed, speed and depth of cut did not result in chip breaking.
Soft and tough material, but nice surface finish.
xander janssen
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Preparing and dry fit for line boring.
Have to add more clamps for stability.
Have to add more clamps for stability.
xander janssen
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Crankshaft bearings, crankshaft, camshaft (still without cams) and gears are in and running smooth. Again a main hurdle towards a running engine taken.
josodl1953
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Ziet er netjes uit.....
Jos
Jos
xander janssen
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All bronze bushings ans clips in place.
Almost a pitty that all of this will become invisible in the final engine.
Almost a pitty that all of this will become invisible in the final engine.
xander janssen
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Status today. Note, all temporary slit-screws and hex screws will be replaced later by studs and nuts.
xander janssen
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Since it is now becoming relative (top) heavy and all the hours invested, I took some time to build a temporary stand for the engine. This to avoid damage during build, transport and exhibition at shows. On the base is a photo that I found in a brochure of this engine.
Once the engine is completely finished, the wooden frame between the engine and the wooden plate will be replaced by a steel one to avoid issues if the wooden plate ever slightly twists due to changes in humidity/temperature. The frame can only be designed once I know how to connect the generator and whether or not I need an auxiliary bearing on the flywheel. Such aux. bearing was relatively common on these engines to reduce stresses on crankshaft by the heavy flywheel. Hence the crankshaft will remain excessively long till that is decided. I rather cut twice than cut too much off.
Also added the tapered bushing to connect the flywheel with the crank shaft. The M4 studs go through M5 threaded holes in the bushing into M4 holes in the flywheel. This allows to pull the bushing out of the flywheel by removing the M4 studs and threading M5 screws into the bushing. These larger screws will not thread into the M4 holes in the flywheel and hence push the bushing out.
Once the engine is completely finished, the wooden frame between the engine and the wooden plate will be replaced by a steel one to avoid issues if the wooden plate ever slightly twists due to changes in humidity/temperature. The frame can only be designed once I know how to connect the generator and whether or not I need an auxiliary bearing on the flywheel. Such aux. bearing was relatively common on these engines to reduce stresses on crankshaft by the heavy flywheel. Hence the crankshaft will remain excessively long till that is decided. I rather cut twice than cut too much off.
Also added the tapered bushing to connect the flywheel with the crank shaft. The M4 studs go through M5 threaded holes in the bushing into M4 holes in the flywheel. This allows to pull the bushing out of the flywheel by removing the M4 studs and threading M5 screws into the bushing. These larger screws will not thread into the M4 holes in the flywheel and hence push the bushing out.
xander janssen
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7075 aluminium piston with commercial cast iron rings.
1st time I use aluminium in stead of cast iron. Lets see how it works.
1st time I use aluminium in stead of cast iron. Lets see how it works.
xander janssen
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Connection rod with bronze bearings and a stainless steel rod silver brazed together.
Piston has a replacable crown to experiment with different crowns e.g. material, shape and dimensions.
Piston has a replacable crown to experiment with different crowns e.g. material, shape and dimensions.
Xander, It appears you soldered a plate to the big end of the rod before sawing in two?? Seems a great idea!!
xander janssen
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Indeed, otherwise I was not able to hold it with enough clearance for the saw mandrel. Took me a while to get out of that oops situation. Soft solder worked very well.
Another option was to first braze the rod to the big end and then hold it by the rod.
Another option was to first braze the rod to the big end and then hold it by the rod.
Xander, that is an interesting piston design. The piston crown retains the piston pin.
I use a two piece piston also, but a different design consisting of a crown and body. Putting the two pieces together form the top ring groove. I run two rings in the groove and no second ring groove.
I use a two piece piston also, but a different design consisting of a crown and body. Putting the two pieces together form the top ring groove. I run two rings in the groove and no second ring groove.
xander janssen
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Determining the cam shape step by step. Valve lift is still a little bit too big and agressive, but first insights are gained.
xander janssen
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Turning the pushrods down from 4 mm (1/6") tot 3 mm (1/8") diameter over a length of 75 mm (3").
Used the technique Joe Pie showed on YouTube, using a drilled and reamed hole in one of the bronze fingers of the following rest to serve as a guide.
Note: use loads of oil.
Used the technique Joe Pie showed on YouTube, using a drilled and reamed hole in one of the bronze fingers of the following rest to serve as a guide.
Note: use loads of oil.
xander janssen
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I'm not in the mood to continue designing technical matters for a while. Then just work on the appearance.
Standard DIN 934 nuts and washers are not correct in height-width ratio for pre-war nuts. All nuts and washers that come into view are made of hexagonal brass in the correct proportions.
Standard DIN 934 nuts and washers are not correct in height-width ratio for pre-war nuts. All nuts and washers that come into view are made of hexagonal brass in the correct proportions.
