X2 mill power feed

[black85vette]

Little bit of clean up on the wires. I wanted a quick disconnect at the motor so I could both remove the motor easily and disconnect the wires going to the motor if it not being used. I use Anderson Powerpole products for all of my Ham radio and portable equipment so I always have some on hand.

If you are not familiar with them check out the web sites below. They have become the standard in Ham radio so that we can move and install equipment quickly without having to use every radio manufacturer's power connector. They are genderless (no male/female connector) each is symetrical and plugs into the other. You can connect them side by side with built in dovetails or mount them on a panel. They come in many colors and sizes so you can connect just about anything. They make them big enough to supply power to battery run fork lifts.

Hope you find this useful.

http://www.powerwerx.com/

http://home.comcast.net/~buck0/app.htm

Edit; the tapered dove tails on each side allow you to link them together to make a multi pin connector of whatever size you want quickly.

 

[prof65]

Don't know how the math works out but when you have two options you have a 50% chance of getting it right, then why is it that 90% of the time I get it wrong????

Don't you know the Murphy's laws? :big: :big: :big:

www.murphys-laws.com

Nice work on your mill.

Merry Christmas.

 

[Noitoen]

Now you can tell everybody that you use a cordless drill to make all sorts of parts :big:

 

[black85vette]

Now you can tell everybody that you use a cordless drill to make all sorts of parts :big:

Thats funny! and useful.

 

[black85vette]

Another step towards completion. I have been running the power feed from my bench power supply. A bit of overkill. I dug around and found a power supply from one of my obsolete and retired pieces of electronics and on the back of it said one output was +5 volts at 3 amps. I need about 2 amps so we are good to go. Hooked it up and it runs like a champ. This means without having to buy a power supply or speed control my cost is staying at $13 total.

I have now made several parts and can report that the power feed works great on this size of mill. Since the mill is limited in the amount of metal it can remove you end up making numerous passes to make wide or deep cuts. That makes for a lot of cranking. I may yet put a speed control on this but it is working to my satisfaction for now.

 

[BillH]

Little bit of clean up on the wires. I wanted a quick disconnect at the motor so I could both remove the motor easily and disconnect the wires going to the motor if it not being used. I use Anderson Powerpole products for all of my Ham radio and portable equipment so I always have some on hand.

If you are not familiar with them check out the web sites below. They have become the standard in Ham radio so that we can move and install equipment quickly without having to use every radio manufacturer's power connector. They are genderless (no male/female connector) each is symetrical and plugs into the other. You can connect them side by side with built in dovetails or mount them on a panel. They come in many colors and sizes so you can connect just about anything. They make them big enough to supply power to battery run fork lifts.

Hope you find this useful.

http://www.powerwerx.com/

http://home.comcast.net/~buck0/app.htm

Edit; the tapered dove tails on each side allow you to link them together to make a multi pin connector of whatever size you want quickly.

Anderson Power Poles, Sermos, what ever you call them. I used them a lot in the R/C airplane hobby with electrics. I used to work with a company called West Mountain Radio. Most of us are R/C pilots, and obviously hams. Well we came out with the Rig Runner... I guess that is how the power poles became standard in Ham Radio. Just a little bit of history and some "it's a small world" stuff for you.

 

[chucketn]

I have 2 cordless drills saved up for such a project. One is a "Speedway" brand, 14v; the other a Black and Decker Firestorm, 18v. The Firestorm is much heavier built in both the motor and the clutch area. I got playing around with them after a electrical problem with my service wires knocked out the chargers.
I had replaced the Firestorm batteries and charger once after a lightning strike, actually bought 2 batteries and 2 chargers, only to have them destroyed when the service wire on the house shorted to ground. That little spark cost $1500 in destroyed electronics. TV's, phones and answering machines, oven controller, and 2 microwaves.
Two problems. Both motor/clutch units, when removed from the housings, separate into 2 pieces with nothing to hold them together.
Also, I have not been able to remove the chuck from the B&D. Parts list online says it's held on by a left hand threadedTorx screw, but I have nothing to fit it, and can't strong arm it to break the screw.
Any ideas on either of these problems?
Both have high/Low speed clutch switches that I would like to incorperate in my design.
black85vette, I see from your pictures you mounted your unit to the plate using the 4 screws on the front of the clutch bezel. Did you have to use longer screws?
I have a dc motor controller from a treadmill, would that work to power these motors if I limit the uper voltage out?

 

[black85vette]

Also, I have not been able to remove the chuck from the B&D. Parts list online says it's held on by a left hand threadedTorx screw, but I have nothing to fit it, and can't strong arm it to break the screw.

The chucks can be a struggle. You are going to need to get the LH screw out even if you have to drill off the head. After that the chuck may be on really tight and not want to come loose. I ended up cutting mine apart in pieces on the band saw and then slitting the last part with a cutoff wheel on the Dremel being careful not to damage the threads.

black85vette, I see from your pictures you mounted your unit to the plate using the 4 screws on the front of the clutch bezel. Did you have to use longer screws?

No I felt like the screws were long enough. This is a fairly low torque application and I was not worried about them.

I have a dc motor controller from a treadmill, would that work to power these motors if I limit the uper voltage out?

I don't think so. The treadmill controller does not have an easy way to limit the DC output. It pretty much just uses the line voltage without a step down transformer. You are much better off with a controller designed for 24 volts.



Post a picture of the motor / clutch assemblies. How where they held in the drill? Did the case provide part of the mounting?

 

[chucketn]

Finally got some pic's posted of one of my drills. Check here: http://s571.photobucket.com/albums/... Power Feed/?action=view&current=DSCF0921.jpg
I will work on getting pics of the Firestorm, but looks like I'm going to have to destroy the chuck to get it off. Tried drilling out the screw, no go. The chuck on the Firestorm is a lot lighter and flimsier than the one from the Speedway, so no great loss. Plus the jaws don't line up properly when it's closed.
By the way, the Speedway drill has only 2 screws going into the clutch housing, where the one you used had 4.

Chuck in E TN

 

[black85vette]

, but looks like I'm going to have to destroy the chuck to get it off.

Wish there was a better way but you put the reduction gears at risk if you apply too much force. My old Sears variable speed drill had a hole just behind the chuck and you could put the handle park of the chuck key in it to lock the shaft and remove the chuck. Now that seems like a really cool idea.

Looked at the pics. Since you have to make some sort of cover for it anyway, it looks like you will have to incorporate a mounting system for the two pieces.

 

[Noitoen]

If nothing else works, destroy the chuck with a cutting disk. The heat should loosen it enough to remove the rest of the threaded part.

 

[GOOFY063]

CHUCKETN
I'm working on the same project and my Coleman drill looks about the same as yours ill try and get pics tonight as to how I'm holding mine together

 

[Hilmar]

Just some Photos of my Power Feed
Hilmar

PS:All is well Paolo

 

[Paolo]

Nice idea Hilmar to have a clutch connector...I have the original power feed by SIEG and I'm studying how Tu use it on my Bf20 mill...Nice to ear you again!!
Best regards
Paolo

 

[black85vette]

Looks good. Nice clutch mechanism.

 

[winklmj]

Hmmmm, HF has these for $17us with a coupon.

Might be worth hacking one up to see what's inside and how it would work.

 

[chucketn]

That HF drill looks exactly like my Speedway, except the case is black.

Chuck in E. TN

 

[websterz]

This seller is where I got the drill motors 'vette and I used for our power feeds.

http://stores.ebay.com/DonkeyWorkk_Other_W0QQ_fsubZ1QQ_sidZ148802938QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

 

[GOOFY063]

I used a piece of alum, pipe to hold my motor together, left it short enough so the fan motor can pull air, and turned down what was left of the chuck that i cut off to use as a coupler,