"World Renown" Steam Roller
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Great work Shred. The silver solder video is very helpful to the fellows who haven't tried it. What type of video editing program do you use to put the text and information into it?
gbritnell
gbritnell
1hand said:
A mild acid to dissolve the oxidisation and spent flux.
Citric Acid will do the job and can be bought in 1KG tubs from brewing shops or places that sell bulk cleaning agents. Best of all it is safe to your skin if you splash a bit on you unlike some of the other harsher (and quicker acting) pickles.
The pickle I'm using is a SparexTM solution, obtained from a jewelry supply store. It's basically sulfuric acid in granule form, same as pool acid. When that gets old I'm going to replace it with citric acid. The upside is the Sparex can pickle a part clean in 15 minutes and re-solderable in 5.
The step drills I have are some cheap imports ($10 for 2) from Harbor Freight. They work so well I'm considering in investing in a better one someday.
The video editor is Windows Movie Maker from Windows XP. To get the text onto the video, use the "make titles and credits" tool but select the "on the selected clip" option.
The step drills I have are some cheap imports ($10 for 2) from Harbor Freight. They work so well I'm considering in investing in a better one someday.
The video editor is Windows Movie Maker from Windows XP. To get the text onto the video, use the "make titles and credits" tool but select the "on the selected clip" option.
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zeeprogrammer
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Excellent video Shred. Excellent.
Always better to see what people are talking about.
Thank you very much.
Amongst the learnings was the use of the rod. I don't think people ever talk about seating the part when soldering.
Always better to see what people are talking about.
Thank you very much.
Amongst the learnings was the use of the rod. I don't think people ever talk about seating the part when soldering.
shred said:
I actually use that too.
I bought it for my jewellery making and keep 2 jars of it.
My good jar for gold and silver and my old jar for small copper and brass parts.
Basically when the solution gets so old it starts silver plating my gold parts it gets downgraded for copper and brass. I only ever have about 300mls of the stuff mixed up so I can only use it on small parts but agree it works very quickly.
For large parts I use citric acid.
You don't have to do that very often, but in this case the bushing was being ornery about seating straight. I mostly use it as a 'scratch rod' to scratch in the melted solder to make sure it's all flowing and get rid of any flakes and globs of flux or dirt.zeeprogrammer said:
New Years Eve boiler testing..
I don't have more pictures of the actual boiler silver soldering. I had to switch to MAPP to get enough heat into the parts and the SS job isn't nearly as nice as others I've done as I had to reheat most of the joints a few times and was experimenting with different solders, fluxes and techniques, but it's all in one piece now.
Anyway... once it was soldered up, I turned up some plugs for the bushings, stuck some O-rings on them and chucked the whole thing into a bucket of water to check for major leaks. As you can tell, I did this outside.. neener, neener.. 68'F, sunny, warm and in the Northern hemisphere
No bubbles (don't be tempted to pressurize at this step, pressure testing is next), so on to -- Hydro testing.
The basic setup is a pan of water and the piston pump from my Slightly Loco build, seen here assembled:
To set up, attach the pump outlet to one bushing, plug the other and leave the uppermost open. Pump water in until it entirely fills the boiler and overflows, then screw in the pressure gauge. The idea is to have no air at all in the boiler or plumbing.
Then pump the pressure up to 60 PSI (the boiler is designed for 30 PSI), looking for leaks. As you can see, I switched on the date/time feature of the camera to help tracking. Started out a little over 60 PSI.
A few minutes in, I noticed the pressure had dropped a little and noticed a tiny water spot on the plastic base
The leak was coming from one of the joints on the pump line, so I decided to ignore it for now and kept checking elsewhere for leaks, bulges and other issues.
After 30 minutes, the pressure was down to just over 50 PSI, and the water spot was a little larger, but no other leaks appeared, so we'll call it good.
I tried to make a video demonstrating what happens if it springs a leak and why water is used instead of compressed air for this test, but it was so unspectacular that I didn't bother editing up the video...
Happy New Year everybody!
- Roy
I don't have more pictures of the actual boiler silver soldering. I had to switch to MAPP to get enough heat into the parts and the SS job isn't nearly as nice as others I've done as I had to reheat most of the joints a few times and was experimenting with different solders, fluxes and techniques, but it's all in one piece now.
Anyway... once it was soldered up, I turned up some plugs for the bushings, stuck some O-rings on them and chucked the whole thing into a bucket of water to check for major leaks. As you can tell, I did this outside.. neener, neener.. 68'F, sunny, warm and in the Northern hemisphere
No bubbles (don't be tempted to pressurize at this step, pressure testing is next), so on to -- Hydro testing.
The basic setup is a pan of water and the piston pump from my Slightly Loco build, seen here assembled:
To set up, attach the pump outlet to one bushing, plug the other and leave the uppermost open. Pump water in until it entirely fills the boiler and overflows, then screw in the pressure gauge. The idea is to have no air at all in the boiler or plumbing.
Then pump the pressure up to 60 PSI (the boiler is designed for 30 PSI), looking for leaks. As you can see, I switched on the date/time feature of the camera to help tracking. Started out a little over 60 PSI.
A few minutes in, I noticed the pressure had dropped a little and noticed a tiny water spot on the plastic base
The leak was coming from one of the joints on the pump line, so I decided to ignore it for now and kept checking elsewhere for leaks, bulges and other issues.
After 30 minutes, the pressure was down to just over 50 PSI, and the water spot was a little larger, but no other leaks appeared, so we'll call it good.
I tried to make a video demonstrating what happens if it springs a leak and why water is used instead of compressed air for this test, but it was so unspectacular that I didn't bother editing up the video...
Happy New Year everybody!
- Roy
Powder keg
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looking good!! I'll probably try a boiler in the future.
tel
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tmuir said:Thats coming along nicely and more more solid than the one that inspired you.
I must invest in one of those step drills.
Anyone know where they can be had for a reasonable price?
My local shop wants about $100 for one.
I think I paid around $40 from my local Chindian Shoppe, but here's a set closer to you for reasonable money.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/STEP-DRILLS-3-PIECE-M2-HIGH-SPEED-STEEL-BRAND-NEW_W0QQitemZ230398741206QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Hand_Tools?hash=item35a4d5cad6
Should be fine for the occasional use they get.
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