VW Beetle engine 1/5 scale

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Yes, I kow, I updated my "A" to a Ferrari picture,, I bought that 10 years ago as a damaged car. Spend a lot of money on engine, but did the most of the work I did by my self.... I tried to make a replika of that engine. Ive'made the crank and one sylinder head, but gave up the block, so over to the VW!

And now there is snowing! Already 10cm of wet snow. Me dont like - I like Thailand!!
 
I was reading about carburator not so long ago on this forum. "How large (or small) it should be". Where do I found it? -My engine is about 3,6ccm x 4. Does it matter how many cylinder there is, or are we simply looking at one cylinder when we talk about the size of the opening?

Your VW build is fantastic! I used to have a 1969 Karman Ghia. Rebuilt the engine from 1500 to 2000cc displacement. Not a good car for a starving college student with little money, especially cold Canadian winters HaHa. But I do have a few fond memories.

I'm interested in your initial design work flow. Did you use factory engine drawings for background layer reference & developed the CAD model off that?

I posted a few carburetor charts on the forum, here are some links. I suspect there are many variables involved, but one of the stronger initial estimate correlations seems to be displacement to throat size assuming typical RPM & cam timing. Please note some of this information pertains to methanol fuel vs. gasoline (methanol = larger orifice) so I tried to label that distinction. I also wondered about how much to increase carb size based on multiple cylinders when I built my radial. The usual suggestion is add proportionate to combined intake period of multiple cylinders. But maybe an overview comment from my own reading - seems like many builders initially estimate a bit large based on scale factor & end up with something a bit smaller in real life running. So all I would say is - integrate a design plan where you can swap different size carbs with little effort, or ability to modify the intake throat diameter. Look forward to more build pictures when you post!

https://www.homemodelenginemachinis...-917-flat-12-engine.32972/page-16#post-374923



https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/search/2133740/?q=carb+sizing&c[users]=petertha&o=relevance



https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/2-stroke-twin-wont-start.26098/#post-285862
 
Your VW build is fantastic! I used to have a 1969 Karman Ghia. Rebuilt the engine from 1500 to 2000cc displacement. Not a good car for a starving college student with little money, especially cold Canadian winters HaHa. But I do have a few fond memories.

I'm interested in your initial design work flow. Did you use factory engine drawings for background layer reference & developed the CAD model off that?

I posted a few carburetor charts on the forum, here are some links. I suspect there are many variables involved, but one of the stronger initial estimate correlations seems to be displacement to throat size assuming typical RPM & cam timing. Please note some of this information pertains to methanol fuel vs. gasoline (methanol = larger orifice) so I tried to label that distinction. I also wondered about how much to increase carb size based on multiple cylinders when I built my radial. The usual suggestion is add proportionate to combined intake period of multiple cylinders. But maybe an overview comment from my own reading - seems like many builders initially estimate a bit large based on scale factor & end up with something a bit smaller in real life running. So all I would say is - integrate a design plan where you can swap different size carbs with little effort, or ability to modify the intake throat diameter. Look forward to more build pictures when you post!

https://www.homemodelenginemachinis...-917-flat-12-engine.32972/page-16#post-374923



https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/search/2133740/?q=carb+sizing&c[users]=petertha&o=relevance



https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/2-stroke-twin-wont-start.26098/#post-285862
I found an drawing at the open source "onshape" community. But I had to modify it, as it was not good enough for an model engine. I've already started to a make a 904 to fit that engine. If I don't succseed with my engine, I will make that car electric! What a negative tought!! Karman Ghia was also on my list!
 

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Thanks for the useful information. In my cam design, the cam lift 2.3mm, so according to the original that is to much (should have been 7.65/5 =1.5mm), but I guess it won't hurt? However a scale down doesnt neccessary have to - or can be the same as volume decrease by 125 and not 5 (the engine I build is scale 1:5, and the volume is then 125 times less). likewice my valves has a 2mm stem (not 1.6 as in scale), valves face diameter is 7 and 8mm, so that is pretty close to the original!
I'll adjust my cam degree according to your description!
as long as the valve clears the piston*, and the valve spring coils don't bind, the higher lift should be ok. check for valve to piston clearance.
 
Very nice Beetle engine, I am watching and learning...

Regarding the 904, the original one had the Fuhrmann quad overhead cam engine. No pushrods in there... Shafts and bevel gears, lots of them. A nightmare to set valve timing.
we often refer to this engine as the 4-Cammer. Here's pics of some of the work I've done in the past couple of yrs on the full size Type 547 engine for a 550 Spyder. I've been involve with casting & machining replacement cylinders for them too ( four pics are raw castings; we chose to make individual heads (like 911) and then a cam support casting. I rebuilt & rebalanced the cooling fan, last to pics of of a used engine my customer was trying to buy.) It takes me about 9 hours to assemble the heads, cams and drive shafts, fit spacers to set gear lash & endplay, etc.
 

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Tom-
You need to start a separate thread for your VW engine work.
Those are some fantastic mods to a VW engine, and this work deserves its own thread.
What a nice and clever piece of work !
.
 
Aligning up the engine body and mill out the slot for camshaft bearing.. Then make a closed end brass bearing at the flywheel end.
The other end bearing will be more difficult, as it is off-center due to the oilpump (I'll not have a oilpump, and see how it goes with just "splash lubrication).
I used brass as bearing on this one as a mistake, all the other (and gears) are in bronze. But I read about it and brass on steel are pretty good bearing too!
However, progress is a bit slow for the moment. It's soon Christmas and my wife complain that I don't do enough housework and preparations!😅
 

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