Vertex Tapping Head?

[Arnak]

Hi Folks,

I have a Vertex Tapping Head, the 2 - 8mm version to use in a pillar drill.

The clutch mechanism appears to be a bit too fierce in action, especially with small taps.

That makes it keep driving when it would be better to reverse so is there anyway to adjust the clutch?

I haven't taken it apart yet. :-\

Thanks for any advice.

Arnak

 

[Noitoen]

I have a tapping head that only reverses if you release the feed. The clutch only stops the tap-

 

[Arnak]

Hi Noitoen,

Mine works in the same way but I am not happy with the bite of the clutch as I believe for smaller taps it operates the clutch too late and will drive the tap to far in.

I agree that reversing the tap requires the drill to lift the device to cause it to reverse but that action is also a bit unreliable.

So I wondered how they worked and if any adjustment is possible?

Arnak

 

[Noitoen]

You could adjust the drill stop to prevent going too deep.

 

[Blogwitch]

I have a Vertex tapping head, mine doesn't have a slipping clutch to prevent breakage, that is up to the operator to make sure the correct sized tapping hole and good lube is used.

What MUST be done is to set the depth stops on your mill or drill feed handle to ensure that the tap does not bottom in a blind hole and the drive goes into neutral at that point. It is then a matter of lifting the feed handle to reverse the tapping head to retract the tap.

Tapping heads are not normally used for one off holes, but batches of holes, so that is why they have to be set up to give the correct cut depth.

If you wanted one with a slipping clutch to protect the taps, then you would normally have to pay for a much more expensive unit.

In fact it was only a couple of months ago that I was given a tiny tapping unit that must be at least 30 to 40 years old, and by the looks of it, was never used. This one does have a slipping clutch, as it is designed for very small taps, about 4mm or smaller.

This picture shows the slipping clutch adjustment, the two knurled bits on the tap holder itself, close to the main body.

I hope this helps.

 

[Arnak]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the advice. ;D

I think the final word is that I need a more expensive tapping head, one with an adjustable clutch especially when using it with smaller tap sizes.

I have a reasonable amount of tapping to do on the cylinders to hold the steam chests using 7BA screws so I'll just have to be careful and set the depth stop as has been suggested.

Arnak

 

[Blogwitch]

In all honesty Arnak, I personally wouldn't use an auto tapping head for what you are doing, with taps that small, you are definitely risking breaking one down a blind hole.

My solution when I get to do very fine blind threads, as you are, is to use a tapping stand. Once you get a feel for using one, tap breakages become a thing of the past.

Like this one, unfortunately out of stock.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Hand-Tapping-Fixture


A lot of people have made one for themselves with just a little bit of ingenuity, just make sure everything is square.

 

[Arnak]

Hi Bogstandard,

Thanks for the advice.

I appreciate that tapping heads are not very good in blind holes so a tapping stand is most likely the best way to go.

Sigh... Something else to add to the ever growing list.

That's the trouble with Model Engineering, there is always another project waiting around the corner, just when you thought it was safe to go back to the workshop! :

Arnak

 

[Blogwitch]

Arnak,

You will find that making little bits and bobs is the norm with model engineering.

I have now been doing it for well over 40 years, and I still have to come up with little tools and fixtures to get jobs done. If it is cheap enough to buy, then I do, but if they are expensive or not even available, then it is up to your own ingenuity.

That is the magic of it all, you will never ever finish, there is always something else to make or do, each with it's own unique challenges.