Vblock for toolpost

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trapper23

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Does anyone know where I can get a vblock to mount in the toolpost so I can crossdrill round bar and tube on my lathe. I need to accomodate up to 20mm diameter bar and tube
 
Hello Trapper, I only have a crotch centre (morse taper with a large diameter vee) which i made and use in the tailstock not the toolpost. This alliws me to cross drill holes in round bar or pipe somwhat accurately. It is fast but tricky as you need to use bith hands. Google "Crotch centre for Lathe"
 
Thanks for that info makes me wonder if i could add te jaw from a 3 point travelling centre to a morse taper.. did you by any chance have a drawing for your item?
 
no i simoky made a morse taper from a large diameter bar big enough to be able to make a convenient size vee. An alternative might be to purchase a ready made morse taper with threaded end ...the type used for drill chucks and screw a vee angle into the end . this could simply be a piece of steel angle.
 
A simple solution; mount a block of metal on the compound in place of the tool post. Using a 45 degree pointed end mill in the chuck, cut a vee groove in the block. It is now perfectly centered on the chuck. Add some clamps and drill or make flat spots on round stock.

Or, you could mount a piece in the tool post and do about the same thing.
 
A simple solution; mount a block of metal on the compound in place of the tool post. Using a 45 degree pointed end mill in the chuck, cut a vee groove in the block. It is now perfectly centered on the chuck. Add some clamps and drill or make flat spots on round stock.

Or, you could mount a piece in the tool post and do about the same thing.

In case you don't have a 45 degree pointed end mill, use ordinary slot drills to machine steps to create your Vee - say 1/2", then 3/8" a bit deeper, then 1/4" deeper still. Although the picture isn't too clear on this point, have a look at http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/_Tidy__Cross_Drilling_Jig.html That's the way this cross drill jig is made.
If you don't like the steps, you could always use a countersink drill after machining the steps to give you the smooth sides.

Dave
The Emerald Ilse
 
Can I SAY A BIG THANKYOU for all who have responded to this thread......... im actually making a clock and need to machine keyways/splines for the gears and spindles...... doing this as practice to start on engines to make an eco generator..... plan is upsized stirling engine from plans coupled to an alternator and inverter to prtially power my "shed" but all work in progress
 

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