tube pump

[el gringo]

I am going to try building a peristaltic pump any suggestions...the materials I have to start with===.250 id x .375 od silicone rubber tube
Ray M

 

[stevehuckss396]

I didn't know what it was. Had to google it. What will this pump be used for?

 

[el gringo]

I didn't know what it was. Had to google it. What will this pump be used for?

I left the crankshaft of my last engine build (Rupenow's 'Little Angel' scale up) extra long on one end to drive an accessory not knowing what it might be...I think this pump might be forgiving to build. Maybe squirting water or Coors Light into a visual effect and circulating... I have also been Googling them for some idea of how to go about it... seems all the wetted parts can be of a non contaminant grade...wouldn't want the Coors to get dirty.
Ray M

 

[jack620]

I have a peristaltic pump to dose hydrochloric acid into my swimming pool for pH adjustment. They are designed to run VERY slowly (like 1RPM). How are you planning to do the speed reduction?

 

[el gringo]

thanks for the input, jack620...I hadn't thought of pump rpm...haven't measured the engine RPM yet but guessing ~400...1 RPM seems somewhat slow, is that the average for these kinds of positive displacement pumps?
Ray M

 

[jack620]

My apologies Ray. I meant 1 rev per second- so 60 RPM. Here's the brochure for the pump I have. You need quite a bit of torque to rotate the rollers against the squeeze tube. I doubt a model engine has enough torque.

 

[el gringo]

You have me almost talked out of it....I might give it a try any way. I think the model engine I would use has more low end torque than you might think...I'll check it out.
Ray M

 

[lennardhme]

Hi,
Great little pumps to make & quite forgiving.
Some tips....... ensure the liquid feed is above the pump entry [ helps to fill the tube again as the roller goes past.] They are sometimes not too good at self priming. Design your pump with a tube small enough in dia. that the engine can drive it. Use a soft tube. Most small steam engines will work as they have lots of torque. A decent setup will give 3'of head quite easily.
Best of luck.
Lennard.

 

[Noitoen]

A small planetary style speed reducer will enhance the visual effect and will insure the pump works correctly at a slower speed.

 

[ranger]

Hi
In the eighties I had a “Condor” 120 glow plug model rc engine, this had a peristaltic pump driven by a roller attached to the camshaft gear (ohc). This worked very well. Be aware though, silicone tubing does not like petrol / gasoline. Methanol is ok. Google “Condor 120” you should then see the arrangement. I fitted one of the pumps from a broken handwash soap dispenser to the case of an old cordless drill charger to use as a ‘flight box’, fuel pump, starter motor power supply using the drill battery.
Doug.

 

[Henry K]

Hi,
Here is a suggestion for VERY large speed reduction and torque multiplication at the same ratio. For example, If you want 30 or 60 to one - no problem.
Use a worm gear drive. A 30 tooth gear gives 30 to 1 reduction and a 60 tooth gear gives 60 to one speed reduction and the same torque multiplication. Keep in mind that tooth profile and drive shaft profile are not important for fun stuff so long as the profiles are matched. The matched profiles can be made by looking at YouTube videos on the subject. Looks like fun if you have a screw cutting lathe.
The reason for the huge speed reduction is that one turn of the worm drive shaft moves the worm gear (connected to the output shaft) only by one tooth. Hence, 30 tooth gear gives 30 to one reduction.
Henry Ford used worm gear drive on his first farm tractors to get the very large speed reduction (and torque multiplication) obviously needed for a farm tractor.

 

[el gringo]

Hi,
Great little pumps to make & quite forgiving.
Some tips....... ensure the liquid feed is above the pump entry [ helps to fill the tube again as the roller goes past.] They are sometimes not too good at self priming. Design your pump with a tube small enough in dia. that the engine can drive it. Use a soft tube. Most small steam engines will work as they have lots of torque. A decent setup will give 3'of head quite easily.
Best of luck.
Lennard.

good tips thank you HENRY K
Ray M

 

[BaronJ]

Hi Guys,

This gets me 25:1 speed reduction. Based on M6 threads.

 

[el gringo]

I can hardly believe all the great ideas/information I am getting on this thread... Please keep it coming!
I almost think I can start building the pump and working on the power transmission.
Ray M

 

[el gringo]

Hi Guys,

This gets me 25:1 speed reduction. Based on M6 threads.
View attachment 117577View attachment 117578

Very interesting...would like to see it working as dummy doesn't understand the design.
Ray M

 

[jack620]

0.375OD tubing is relatively large and will result in a fairly large pump housing I think. If you need a different squeeze tube to the one you have, I found these people good to deal with:

Tubing For Peristaltic Pumps – Liquid Pumps - Clark Solution

Here's a list of the tubing they sell and its properties: https://www.clarksol.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/TechPeriTubing219.pdf

 

[el gringo]

0.375OD tubing is relatively large and will result in a fairly large pump housing I think. If you need a different squeeze tube to the one you have, I found these people good to deal with:

Tubing For Peristaltic Pumps – Liquid Pumps - Clark Solution

Here's a list of the tubing they sell and its properties: https://www.clarksol.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/TechPeriTubing219.pdf

thanx much I will downsize the tubing to 3mm x 4mm
Ray

 

[BaronJ]

Very interesting...would like to see it working as dummy doesn't understand the design.
Ray M

Hi Ray,

Nothing difficult about it ! A simple worm and wheel. In the case of the pictures, used as a method of setting a precise angle for grinding a milling cutter.

The worm only has teeth cut in it for about a sixth of its diameter and is driven by a piece of M6 threaded rod. Its designed to move the work holder about +/-12 degrees. Those ink marks indicate the range of movement obtained.

The base that it is on also rotates about +/- 10 degrees.

 

[el gringo]

Hi Ray,

Nothing difficult about it ! A simple worm and wheel. In the case of the pictures, used as a method of setting a precise angle for grinding a milling cutter.

The worm only has teeth cut in it for about a sixth of its diameter and is driven by a piece of M6 threaded rod. Its designed to move the work holder about +/-12 degrees. Those ink marks indicate the range of movement obtained.

The base that it is on also rotates about +/- 10 degrees.

 

[goldstar31]

A bit for John B especially to say that I was re-reading Jack Radford's book, Improvements and Accessories for the lathe. Actually this Kiwi bloke had a pre- Power crossfeed Myford Super 7 B and concocted a tool to sweep face from the catchplate with a similar thread.
As I had two catchplates, and no power feed on my earlier lathe, I got an urge-- which never happened

Again, he made elevating heads for it similar to the Bormilathe- but I finally settled for a less exotic piece of kit.
Best Wishes-- I can sort of see again now

Norman