Three, Three, Three Projects In One.

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I'm still trying to figure out wot end of a hammer to hit things with ;D
 
Troutsqueezer said:
I can take my tailstock and even tho it's tightened to the ways, I can twist the darn thing ever so slightly and see it move. So I twist it to align the live center or bit or whatever I have in the tailstock to the center of the workpiece. There is usually a small circle or sliver sticking out from the workpiece after I 've done some facing on it to reference to. I can see Dean and Marv cringing as I write this. :big: But hey, that's what you do with Harbor Freight lathes. Ha.

I also have a boring head and will bore on the mill for most of my cylinders.

Ah. I've noticed that too. Happy for the confirmation. Interesting...when I posted my reply I wondered if you made your cylinders on the mill. Trouble is the cylinders for the loco are too small. (Marv or someone is going to kick in here and tell me to make a small boring cutter.)

Troutsqueezer said:
I just blunder along.

You blunder well.

 

Hey Dennis,

Your parts look great. Can't wait to see the results of these. It's nice to see you go the extra mile to put a super fine finish on your parts.
 
Thanks for the compliments guys. The grained finish is easier to put on than the polished finished I did on Elmer's Twin a while back, that's for sure.
 
Nice work on all these projects, Trout!

Chuck
 
zeeprogrammer said:

Hey, that's my line! :)

And make yourself a small boring bar. That's what broken taps are for, don't you know. You'll quickly find that a regular bench grinder is too big for this scale of toolmaking so build a stand for your Dremel like the one I showed a long time ago. :)

And Trout, here's a "cringe" for you to go along with the sigh. Learn to get your facing tool on center so you don't have those telltale "pips" to, cringe, manually align your tailstock to. :)

 
Ah, here's that thread, only one page back. Sorry I didn't realize there were three responses since my last post. Guess I need to pay closer attention.

Thanks Chuck, that means a lot coming from you! :)

Zee-ster....had I seen those twin pokes I would have moved quicker... or maybe not... ;D

I don't know, Marv, if learning how to get my facing tool on center is the real problem here. It may have more to do with pure laziness. :-[ "Pips", now there's the terminology I was looking for! That's it...for centering the tailstock, I use the pip alignment method.

I did get some stuff done whilst obsessing over my tractor.

On the Paddleducks I made the two gland pieces along with the packing nuts that go with them.

Pretty straightforward, turning the basic shape and threading the hole for the pack nut before parting off completely.

DSC05361.jpg


Also before parting off I screwed in the pack nut and drilled through the whole assembly to ensure the hole was centered, thanks to Bogs for that tip.

DSC05362.jpg


Pretty as a picture. Wait.... it is a picture.

DSC05366.jpg


For the Upshur Hit and Miss crankshaft I cut a piece of drill rod to the correct size and machined the cheeks out of brass because I like the way they look and they are much easier to machine. I think brass will be strong enough for this application. I cut a couple of small pieces of silver solder and placed them around the shaft. I did bevel the brass around the shaft on the outsides of the cheeks to provide a small trench for the solder.

DSC05384.jpg


I intended to solder both pieces of the shaft at the same time but that didn't work out so I ended up soldering just the one joint first. Also, the solder rings were too big causing more solder to leak through to the other side of the joint than desired. That caused me more work on cleanup. Like a DoDo I forgot to add flux the first time I heated it up. Doh! Good thing I caught it before I burned the entire assembly to hell heck. Here it is after proper brazing.

DSC05385.jpg


Task completed, except for cleanup.

DSC05388.jpg


Spiffed out and ready to go.

DSC05389.jpg


I'm almost there! Well....maybe not.

DSC05392.jpg


Till next time, fellow modelers... *bang*
 
Ahhhhhhh....the pics are certainly satisfying.

That's a good looking crankshaft! I like the use of brass.
My next project includes this kind of crankshaft so this was very helpful.

How did you take out that piece of rod? I think I'm supposed to know but can't think of it for the life of me.

See? You might not provide build pictures but that doesn't stop us from asking questions.

 
Thanks Guys.

To remove the rod section I mounted the crankshaft in the milling vice and used one of my "steel only" end mills. Those would be the ones that are on the verge of becoming too dull to continue using (as end mills anyway). I made small passes until I had cut thru completely. Then I used the side of the end mill to get close to the cheeks. To get a smoother finish on the inside of the cheeks I used my small bench belt sander, the kind with a 1 inch wide belt, and very carefully touched the brass to it. Had to keep a close eye on that and use a very light touch because that belt sander can take away brass very quickly.
 
Troutsqueezer---I'm not sure how I missed this thread, but I'm glad I discovered it. I almost built the Upshur, but decided on the Kerzel instead. I will stay in touch now that I have found it. I have absolutely no idea of how you can work on 3 different engines at the same time. That would drive me crazier than I already am!!!!---And I cut that section of crank out with the bandsaw, then used my parting off tool extended out a ridiculous distance to clean up the finished diameter and face the insides of the throws.
 
It's slow going working on three at once. Notice its been three weeks since I last posted to this thread. I'm notoriously slow but I am steady. Almost ready to post the next round.
 
Keep at it Trout....it's coming along fine...

Dave
 
Troutsqueezer said:
Notice its been three weeks since I last posted to this thread.

Yep.

Not that I should be pointing fingers (note the use of plural - er - as in I have them).

I'm gasping down around page 4.
 
Zee I really think you should start in on the A3. I've been thinking about it ever since 1hand's post and once I start to think about something, often I don't stop until I've completely burned out on it. Just think, a five year long project...small but can pull a couple people around a track...hmmm.... Thm:

How many pages would that build thread be? :eek:

Thanks Dave, I'm still hanging in there. Looking forward to getting the hit and miss to fire up. Right now I'm making the connecting rod for it which is fancier than parts I've made to date for any engine. There's a lot of setup to it, so I'm having a good time.
 
Troutsqueezer said:
Zee I really think you should start in on the A3. I've been thinking about it ever since 1hand's post and once I start to think about something, often I don't stop until I've completely burned out on it. Just think, a five year long project...small but can pull a couple people around a track...hmmm.... Thm:

How many pages would that build thread be? :eek:

Think ya both should start one, I'm going to need a support group to get through this one! scratch.gif

I can give you guys the tender wheel wheel measurements so you could get started before your book shows up!! :big:

Matt
 
I do have to finish these three first, then my engine shelf will be well populated. I was thinking I'd keep an eye on your progress for the next few months to see if it really is something I am equipped to tackle. Plus, I can avoid making the same mistakes you're about to make. :big: Kidding, of course.
 
stickpoke

Hm...

doesn't look like a boomerang
doesn't smell like a boomerang
doesn't feel like a boomerang

but my back sure hurts.

 

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