Team Build 8

[chucketn]

I would like to try my hand at silver soldering. Can anyone suggest a source for solder and flux? I am familiar with the process, just never done hard soldering. Taught electronics high reliability soldering in the USAF, and remember my Dad soldering with an acetaline/air torch many years ago. I even have his torches and acetaline bottle. Only problem is the hose for the torch has dry rotted to the point I won't use it. I do have a mapps gas/propane torch that should work. I don't want to invest a fortune in hard soldering equipment as I don't know how often it would be used.
Also a source for fire brick to make a soldering hearth.

Chuck

 

[dreeves]

I'm good with the time as well as our own hardware

Dave

 

[joe d]

Chuck

for solder stuff try these guys http://sra-solder.com/section.php/113/1/brazing

I'm in with supplying my own fasteners, and the time limit looks good too.

Joe

 

[maverick]

Chuck,
A good source of fire brick is a pottery studio. They sometimes have broken
pieces that they use to put shelves on when they load the kiln. As far as
silver solder, the link that joe d provided looks good. Silver solder with
cadmium flows much better and used in small amounts is not a health risk.
Choose a solder with a melting point of 1100 to 1200 degrees. The lower
temp will allow the solder to melt before the flux burns and there is less chance of damaging your parts.

Regards,
Maverick

 

[dreeves]

To any off the cnc guys out there does anyone have the hmem logo in g code or something I can import into cambam to use on our team build? Second question which number is this team build?

To the team build members I will post some pictures of the colors of corian I have.

Dave

 

[Path]

Dave,

This is Team Build 8.

I don't have any code, but when I'm cutting the Frames I was thinking about putting on the side ... HMEM Team Build 8 2012 Serial number of 1 of 10 (2 of 10 etc). Also adding the Team Member's name on it (just a thought).

What do think?

Pat H.

 

[dreeves]

Thats great. I was thinking on putting something in the corian but on the frame is good as well. I did a quick solid build in autocad of the project and looks like the base will be around 5 3/8 wide by 8 1/4 long. I that will give about 1 inch all around the entire engine with the width 1 inch past the widest part of the crank to be stable. Im going to check what size shipping boxes are close so the size may be a little smaller.

Dave

 

[dreeves]

These are the colors I have in Corian. The only one I have that will give me 10 is the sample of E. Im will to take requests for colors.
Here is A-E
A -2 Bases
B- 3 Bases
C- 4 Bases
D- 6 Bases
E- 10 Bases

I will check to see if I can find some darker colors
Dave

 

[maverick]

Dave,
I would like to request a base made from B. As far as the G code, I drew up the HMEM logo for the 3 cylinder team build. I can send it in any cad format
or G code. Will it need to be a certain size or can you scale it?

Regards,
Maverick

 

[joe d]

Hi

I really like the idea of our names & a serial number as well as the "Team Build #8" & HMEM logo.

Dave: Not picky at all as to which corian I get, they all look good to me.

Joe

 

[dreeves]

Maverick I have autocad 2004 and use cambam . I am new to the cambam but good at autocad. If you could send me a dxf file that would be good. Psc at aol.com

 

[chucketn]

I have a couple of questions on my parts on sheet 7.
1. Connecting rod at A3. The flat piece on the left end is .o62 thick?

2. Con rod bearing shown at A2. Drawing states drill & ream .250 as a pair. Should I do this as one piece and slit after reaming? Same detail, what is the meaning of the symbol between 0.089 and 0.750 on call out for hole for hex head screw?

3. I don't see an overall length for rod clevis at 1B.

Could one of the more experienced folks clarify these for me, please?

Chuck

 

[Path]

Chuck,

Glad you asked I just finished making drawings in Solidworks so I should be able to help.

1. If you are referring to Keeper Plate item 11 (zone 1A) then yes .062 or 1/16" will do.

2.That symbol denotes the depth of the hole. In this case all the way through. The .75 is an error. The drilling and reaming needs to be done as a single piece after the slitting. If slitting is not done before ... the hole will not be concentric or the correct diameter.

3.The missing length (left of the .282) is not critical. So what I did is measured it (on the drawing) and scaled it up, I came up with .3 . So the overall length is: .3 + .282 +.125 (radius given from the hole to the edge) = .707 . Note that .707 is not the important dimension the individual ones are with the .3 least important.

Just as a note I found a lot of missing measurements ... and scaling up was the way I got the answer and most were not critical .. kinda left up to the builder.

Except one on the frames ... which I will go into later.


Hope this helps,

Pat H

 

[chucketn]

Thanks Pat. I'll go with your dimentions.

Chuck

 

[dalem9]

Hi I like the B base . Thanks Dale

 

[dreeves]

I plan on cutting the bases on Saturday so let me know what you want or I will just get them done. I have a few already for the B only one of that color left.


Dave

 

[Path]

If you don't find any darker ones, I will take B also.


Thanks,

Pat H

 

[chucketn]

Dave, I'm not fussy on base color. What ever is easy. I think this engine will look good on what ever you come up with!

Chuck

 

[chrispare]

I will be good with whatever I get for the base.

I have got one piston and shaft done.
The shaft is on spec .157 +- .003
( my lathe has a few thou taper unfortunately )
The piston I did .490 hope that is ok Dale ?
The oring will be a snug fit into .500 bore

Chris

 

[dreeves]

Looking good

Dave