Tap Wrench.

[Arnak]

Hi Folks,

Can anyone recommend a really good tap wrench for the larger sizes of tap, sat 10mm upwards.

I find that the commercial cast variety always come loose on the tap when applying a fair amount of torque.

That is even after tightening with a length of rod.

The design seems faulty to me, having a sliding head with a v groove does not seem to be a good engineering solution as the sliding part can twist slightly and jam, surely there must be a better design than that?

I am prepared to make my own if there are any recommended designs out there.

Arnak

 

[kf2qd]

Check out a good Starret handle. Cost a bit more but they work a lot better.

 

[Lance]

Tap sockets with a t handle work great.
Here is a set of $nap-on.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675369&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[Arnak]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info.

I'll check out the starret but I'm not sure about the idea of using a socket.

Isn't it a problem to be turning with just one handle as it might pull the tap to one side?

How do you make a tap wrench, not the sliding jaw type?

Does anyone know of any plans?

Arnak

 

[terrywerm]

I don't have any plans, but you can buy one on eBay for about $10 American, plus shipping. Here is the link: Antique tap wrench. If nothing else, you can look at the photos and make your own plans from there.

You could get a set of tap sockets, then use a t-handle wrench for sockets instead of using a ratchet. In a worst case scenario you could make a t-handle for sockets pretty easily, or make your own wrench of the type shown on eBay. You might want to harden the area of the wrench that engages the tap, plain old CRS may tend to deform somewhat if you apply much torque.

 

[Arnak]

Hi Terry,

Thanks for the reply.

I think I will have a go at making a barrel wrench using silver steel for the moving jaw and harden the end.

Also harden the groove that the tap corner fits into.

That way at least I can make the handles a bit longer.

Arnak

 

[rkepler]

I prefer the type described as a "Machine mount with guide" as in McMaster's #2550A64. These have a 1/2" post on the end and a socket that mates with it - clamp the other end of the socket in a 1/2 endmill holder and it guides the tap in the hole you just drilled. I have a 1/2 holder the the MT#2 in my lathe tailstock and use them there as well. Using these eliminates most tap breakage while tapping (but does nothing for those taps dropped into oblivion on the shop floor).

 

[Herbiev]

Hi. For the larger taps I use an old boring tool known as a "brace and bit". If you see one at a flee market make sure it has a decent swing

 

[robcas631]

Terrific set! I had strip out as well and I was being nice! Nothing ticks me off than substandard materials.

 

[robcas631]

Can you post a picture of one?

 

[robcas631]

You have a point!

 

[Herbiev]

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRvzyDixGOH2lMH_J_PspwhwJcUIjbGKlOn9EgKU7onS4sV2Pvy
The bits (drills) have a tapered square end and fits into the chuck which when tightened holds the square end to prohibit slipping

 

[rake60]

For large taps I use THESE .

They certainly will loosen up in use but after almost 30 years, I have developed an automatic muscle memory response for that.

The adjustable handle is always in my right hand.
Forward 1/2 turn, back 1/4 turn to break the chip, back to a neutral position and a twist on the right handle to ensure the tap
is tight in the tap wrench before going on to the next cutting 1/2 turn.

I don't even think about doing that, it's automatic.

Rick