Sudden Problems With my Printer

[awake]

Microswitches are normally VERY repeatable.

Unfortunately, the typical lead screws in 3d printers are not so repeatable - better if the design includes a backlash nut, but still nothing to write home about. Note that it is possible for the x-axis to get "cocked" at a bit of an angle; you can adjust the bed to match, so it is "level" ... but that cocked position will further degrade the repeatability of z-axis movement.

Making sure everything is tight is an excellent suggestion! Maybe time to do a complete tuneup - all fasteners tight, belts and rollers properly tensioned, z-lead-screws synched to get the x-axis square to the motion, rails cleaned, etc.

 

[Outback]

Hey Bob,
Nearly forgot I had the same issue after moving my Ender3 V2 I had tightened everything up, redid the new yellow springs and noticed they needed stacks more turns on one back corner (all loosened off 3 full turns before i adjusted Z microswitch. When leveled the back-corner was nearly right up to get the bed level. Went along the x axis arm and found it was lower at the far end from the servo. Had to take off the head and re-align the arm to get it level. (couple of spice bottles under each end to get it parallel with the bed.) Before this it was running CHEP's bed level ok but having problems the higher the item I printed with a 8 cm high small diameter extrusion, it started ok on the bed but ran out as Z height was increased, till it collapsed.
I level my bed using jyes manual mesh 3x3 bed leveling each morning then use a G29 L0 to use mesh. (I always tick the box in the use level after turning the unit on.)
Don't despair it will work out !
Brian

 

[Shopgeezer]

Just got my email problem sorted out (blacklisted) so I am late to respond to this thread. The original problem, sudden lack of bed adhesion, is one I have experienced. My Crealty CR20 came with a standard build board and glue stick works well with that. However I tried glass plates and the glass/carbon Crealty plate and they all worked great at first and then quickly lost adhesion. I cleaned them with isopropyl and noticed that the rag showed whatever colour plastic I had just used, even on the edges of the plate where no filament was printed. My theory is that the cooling fan in the head blows plastic vapour all across the plate and this builds up until adhesion is lost. Why this should be and why the isopropyl doesn’t clean it off is a mystery. I am back to the old plate and glue stick.

 

[Bob44]

Hi folks, I’ve been 3D printing for about 4 years. I use a Ender 3Pro and a S1 Pro.
Room temperature, humidity and filament dryness and a bunch of other things affect the print quality and sticking to the bed. The weather even has an effect on 3D printing.
Good luck patience is a virtue. When all of a sudden things don’t work don’t try to over compensate. It probably will work again tomorrow.

 

[user 50514]

I know this is an old post, but doesn't hurt to offer help if one needs it.
I have a foolproof way of leveling my bed on a 300 x 300 mm machine.
After that I make my own single layer print to test it. I learned this way of doing it after many frustrating attempts trying to follow advise from many on youtube. They are all correct in their own way, but the snag is that it has to stick with your brain before you can move on.
If anybody is still looking for an easy solution let me know here and I might make a post out of it separately.
I say easy, everything is a dependent of something far more complex and just claiming something is "easy" has the potential to trip you up.
But having said that, after I level my bed I don' touch it for months and I switch off the auto bed leveling mesh as well. Seems to work so I stick with it. Only thing I have to do is after a nozzle change, which tbh, I do often. Simple quick Z-offset correction during the priming of the nozzle and good to go.