starter switch help

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Hi everybody,i have just purchased a simple stop/start button switch for the
advance lathe.Start is no and stop is nc.I wired the live to both contacts
and motor starts but stops when i release it wont latch on.Have i bought the wrong type of switch or wired it wrong.Cant see why you would have a stop button if it wont latch closed.Would appreciate advise urgently.Am i missing something. Regards barry
 
Any chance of some pics of the switch Barry ?
 
Hi Baz

Sounds like you have not realized you need a contactor and overload unit to complete your starting arrangement. The contactor switches power to the overload and then the motor, there is a pair of NO contacts used on the contactor to act as holding circuit for the starter coil so when the Start button is released power continues to flow to the coil through the now closed pair of contacts.
If the overload trips with load or short circuit then power is removed from the coil and hence the motor because the contactor opens.
In some cases (24/110volt or DC coil) the control circuit is not the same as the motor power circuit and if it is it may have a separate fuse.
Normally a starter will include all items in one enclosure, additional stop/start stations can also be added remotely from the starter box, sounds to me this is what you have.
Rgds, Emgee
 
The motor is wired to a 3 pin plug which i have been using to plug into the mains
If i plug it in to a wall socket i can then turn motor on and off at the wall.I therefore assumed i could fit the switch between the motor and plug
on the live wire.The switch i bought on ebay will not latch on when the on button is used therefore i can start/stop the motor by pressing/releasing
the on button.What use is the off button.Trawling thru ebay i assume some
switches will stop/start only by the on/off button.Cannot this switch be used ?
I just want something simple as say a bench drill switch.Sorry if i sound stupid
but electrics is not my thing. Herbiev,i dont think photos will help.Do you know anywhere local where i can buy a cheap small simple on/off switch. I envisage
green recessed on and large mushroom red off.Maybe evev a toggle switch
Regards barry
 
Bazmak,

I see that you are in Australia (Thanks for putting that in your profile, BTW), so I don't know exactly what is customary in electrical installations there as I am in the U.S.

In general, xpylonracer seems to have it right. With motors, and especially as they get larger, switches and controllers are needed that can handle high-current switching and multiple contacts, depending on what is needed for the motor(s) involved. Using a control box with a remote switch makes it easy (and safer) to locate a switch convenient to the operator, leaving the high-current, high-voltage, multiphase, multicircuit, etc. stuff somewhere else.

If your motor is only plugged into a wall outlet you may be able to find a switch (or switches) that you can locate on your machine where it is more convenient, but you may be faced with creating or modifying a mounting box or enclosure to do it.

Perhaps you can find someone who can advise you as to what you need. I would suggest components from an industrial supplier, rather than e-bay, once you know for sure what you need. (And I do know and sympathize that you may not a have a convenient source in your location.)

I would also suggest that for further help here:

Photo of your machine in it's location with your desired switch location marked in some way.

Photo of your machine's electrical connection to it's outlet.

Photo of machine label and photo of motor tag showing current and voltage requirements and/or that information from any documentation you have.

Photo of the switch you bought, outside.

Photo of the switch you bought, showing the connections inside.

Any information you have as to the manufacturer, model number, etc. of the switch.

I hope we can help you with this, but electricity is a thorny issue sometimes as different countries and localities have different codes and practices.

--ShopShoe
 
I believe this may be the Lathe the OP is referring to.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/advance/

Not sure about Australian regs but although modern switchgear may be desirable it may not be necessary unless the OP actually wants it. I ran my first lathe directly from the wall socket for many years.
 
What xpylonracer describes is also the safest approach, as it will "fail safe" on loss of power and require another press of the start button to restart the motor.

With a mechanical switch, you could conceivably lose power, and if you didn't turn the switch off, when power returned the motor would restart without operator input.

It's not expensive to do- a DPDT relay & socket with sufficient current capacity to handle a small lathe can be found for under $10.
 
"I ran my first lathe directly from the wall socket for many years."

Me, too! Bought it at 14, I'm 72 now, lathe still runs, but I don't!! If we're talking about a small motor here, and it's single-phase, many have overload thermal switches contained within their windings. These open the feed circuit if the windings get too hot. Occasionally, a switch is found used in conjunction with small motors incorporating an overload device within the switch. My experience has been to find these on very old installations of over 1 HP, but still single phase.

3-phase motor operation, at least here in the States, almost invariably uses a "motor-starter", which is a fancy name for a relay which contains an overload device capable of cutting off power to the motor itself. Such starters often incorporate lower voltage coils (operating voltage) than the motor voltage used. Some designers prefer very low control circuit voltage, 12 or 24 volts, or so. Such thinking provides safety from shock hazard to Maintenance workers, to some extent; however, since control and controlled voltages are used in common within the same service enclosures, such protection is a rather moot point to be argued among those designing the stuff. An exception is the case where machine operators and peripheral workers, loading parts perhaps into temporarily motionless machine elements, actually perform control functions at their more or less remotely-located work stations, there being switches mounted for their use. Such operation is wisely done using low voltage. Workers have a way of beating HELL out of switch stations and the like!

Personally, I prefer 120 v. controls, and use whatever the motors require, commonly 460 v. 3-phase. Note that the control voltage is universally single-phase, regardless of voltage used. jack
 
Many thanks everybody for your comments.I realize now that i bought the wrong
switch,no interlock.Still only $8 delivered from china,no great loss.
Herbiev i went to Lonsdale but no joy at the tool shop but got one next
door at the electrical suppliers.Standard weatherproof outdoor isolation switch
Positive slide switch on/off Fitted and looks/works good $27.Will start a thread soon on the mods/refurb to the advance lathe with photos.Thanks for your help
Regards Bazmak
 
Glad you're sorted, look forward to seeing the refurb!
 
That was going to be my next suggestion. Glad it's fixed.
 

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