And some of these Dake parts may be good candidates for the lost-PLA method, with their passages.
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![Dake-Valve-04.jpg Dake-Valve-04.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attach/110/110315-Dake-Valve-04.jpg)
![Dake-Valve-Body-01.jpg Dake-Valve-Body-01.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attach/110/110316-Dake-Valve-Body-01.jpg)
![Dake-Valve-Body-03.jpg Dake-Valve-Body-03.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attach/110/110317-Dake-Valve-Body-03.jpg)
![Dake-Assembly-11.jpg Dake-Assembly-11.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attach/110/110318-Dake-Assembly-11.jpg)
![rImg_2846.jpg rImg_2846.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attach/110/110319-rImg-2846.jpg)
![rImg_2853.jpg rImg_2853.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attach/110/110320-rImg-2853.jpg)
![rImg_2858.jpg rImg_2858.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attach/110/110321-rImg-2858.jpg)
Can't see how a vertical line would have worked either across or along the part. Though I have seen more of the item than you.
That is why I said to keep cost down. cores and multi part flasks cost time and money. I'm sure the foundry who did the originals did not do it for fun and would have gone for a simple vertical split if that would have worked.
I designed that pattern with Graham Corry, 35years of casting engines for his Alyn Foundry company. He also felt it was the way to go and if a vertical part line would have done we would have used it but what does he know, probably cast more engines in a week than you have in your life.
what does he know, probably cast more engines in a week than you have in your life.
A vertical parting line would work fine.
Somebody just did not know how to do parting lines on this casting.
Most do not most gears before 1900 was just sand cast.I edited my post to correct that statement.
My bad.
Lets move on.
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I would take that with a pinch of salt.Yes the "foam" type PLA has less material to burn out, someone posted about it here a month or so ago.
Pat I don't see why you say trees of castings cant be done with sand moulding. It is really no different to using a match board with multiple parts on it with all the runners and gates. This is a very commonly used method as it saves time having to mould each individual part in a separate flask, reduces total amount of metal to be melted as you don't have as many risers etc.
I've even made patterns that consist of several items "treed" together so they are quicker for the foundry to cast and less risk of loosing individual small patterns. This is probably a better option for the home foundry as they are not going to be into production quantities that match boards suit.
I would take that with a pinch of salt.
There is more information at
https://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/lost-pla-using-light-weight-pla.2774/
Please note the homefoundry site is often down.
This has more detail on the process than the one posted here and you can see that all the castings made are poured into the cavity of the LWPLA and so are solid! This is because the pattern is printed only with one wall thickness in 'Vase Mode'.
Hence it is not a valid replacement to lost foam or lost PLA/Wax.
It is not practical for internal details or to be honest any large figurines as these are invariably cast hollow to reduce shrinkage problems and the cost of the material.
I wish I had read that before spending on a spool of LWPLA as I did try a conventional part with low infill and styrofoam sprue. Only the sprue filled! And that was casting in Brass!
Yes, you could print this material as normal even in low density and burn it out but what's the point when regular PLA works fine.
Rich
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