Scratch built verticle plans

[Maxjon]

Hi all...I found these plans on here somewhere the other day.....My question is, how does the steam chest mount to the cylinder?
I know someone on here has built it, I just cant find it again....
See Attached....

Thanks for any tips!!

 

[timo_gross]

Page 4 says "Hartlöten". Aka silver soldering of the "Schieberplatte" to the cylinder.

my question: Would it be a good idea to make cylinder and the block from cast iron and then try to silver solder it?

Greetings Timo

p.s. next questions: How does the cylinder connect to the base? Not enough room for a bolt head anywhere.
Are there threaded studs that sandwich the complete assemlby? Stand, lower cylinder cover, cylinder upper cylinder cover?

 

[Maxjon]

Page 4 says "Hartlöten". Aka silver soldering of the "Schieberplatte" to the cylinder.
View attachment 162888
my question: Would it be a good idea to make cylinder and the block from cast iron and then try to silver solder it?

Greetings Timo

Yeah I figured that later on lol....Thanks though!

 

[timo_gross]

Yeah I figured that later on lol....Thanks though!

How is the cylinder attached to base?
http://www.dampfhobby.de/dm3.shtml
Cannot see from here.

 

[Maxjon]

How is the cylinder attached to base?

Good question....I'm hoping the person on here who has built one, stumbles across this post....

 

[Jasonb]

Although it is missed off the cylinder drawing It should be fairly obvious that each end of the cylinder should be tapped for 4 holes on a 30mm PCD, going by the size of the generous clearance holes in the mating parts I would say tap it M3. Small hex fixings needed though I would up the PCD to 31mm to give a bit more clearance for the nuts against the trunk guide and use M2.5 fixings with holes drilled and tapped to suit which are plenty strong enough for an engine of that size.

 

[Maxjon]

Although it is missed off the cylinder drawing It should be fairly obvious that each end of the cylinder should be tapped for 4 holes on a 30mm PCD, going by the size of the generous clearance holes in the mating parts I would say tap it M3. Small hex fixings needed though I would up the PCD to 31mm to give a bit more clearance for the nuts against the trunk guide and use M2.5 fixings with holes drilled and tapped to suit which are plenty strong enough for an engine of that size.

Yes it did look obvious....I haven't had a chance to study the hard copy of the drawings as yet....Would you solder the steam chest, or make the cylinder and steam chest in one piece?

 

[timo_gross]

Although it is missed off the cylinder drawing It should be fairly obvious that each end of the cylinder should be tapped for 4 holes on a 30mm PCD, going by the size of the generous clearance holes in the mating parts I would say tap it M3. Small hex fixings needed though I would up the PCD to 31mm to give a bit more clearance for the nuts against the trunk guide and use M2.5 fixings with holes drilled and tapped to suit which are plenty strong enough for an engine of that size.

But with the base beeing outside diameter 26mm diameter and the bolt circle diameter 30 mm. That does leave less than 0.5 mm for the bolt head. So bolting from the underside into the cylinder will not work. (at least not with normal M3 screws.

Should have read the what you wrote, better. Will try the suggested.

 

[timo_gross]

Yes, increasing the bolt circle to 31, then use M2.5 screws would just fit with the head sticking out a bit. Definitely something to plan ahead.


I still wonder if it wold make sense to drill and tap the base M3 and go with some studs all the way through and sandwich everything.

 

[Jasonb]

You could also reduce the trunk guide to say 24mm which would still leave 2mm thickness after milling the 1mm deep slots. Either way rough it out undersize and with spare material on the flabfe thickness then you can finish machine after assembly incase things move.

As for the cylinder there are a number of options, make from brass or bronze and then you can silver solder it. Though JB Weld would also work and give the option to use cast iron bar as well.

If you cut from solid then it will need a bit of alteration making the body more of a D shape unless you want the extra work of doing the undercuts. This is quite a simple way to make a cylinder, just offset it in a piece of round or rectangular stock. Then face the end, bore and turn the outer 35mm flange diameter 5mm long. Reverse and do the flange at the other end. Over to the mill and do the port face then the two edges and finally round over the remaining part of the D