QC Tool Storage

[Ken I]

Based on an idea I saw elsewhere on the site (but I can't find it to give credit to the author) I did this.
View attachment Toolrack1.jpg
The LH image - A bunch of my QC lathe tools are perched on top of the headstock - I have a wooden tray there for oddments but it is cluttered with QC holders and it is quite difficult to see which is which. But at the top is the edge of a shelf doing nothing.
So I simply screwed a piece of DIN Rail to hang the tooling on - as per the right hand image.

Simple solution - the tools are just above eyeline - easily accessible .

Regards Ken I

 

[trlvn]

Nice and simple--I like it!

I see about 14 tool holders in the RH picture. Appears all of them are HSS? (Although the leftmost appears to be a knurling tool.) What all have you got?

Craig

 

[Ken I]

I never thought to list them but here goes from Left to Right
Knurling Tool (under over rollers medium diamond knurl)
Carbide insert square tip neg/pos configuration @ 45° - chamfers and roughing
Carbide insert triangular tip neg/pos configuration @ 90° - normal machining to shoulders.
HSS hook rake - fine finishing and light final accurate cuts.
Carbide insert boring bar bores over 18mm diameter
Carbide insert boring bar - bores over 12mm diameter
Brazed carbide boring bar - bores over 10mm diameter or light finishing cuts.
4mm Diameter 4 flute end mill set up as boring bar.
HSS 4mm diameter boring bar
HSS 3mm diameter boring bar
Inclined Mount for tapered 3/32" part off blade - front rake and clearance angled for pipless part-off.
Brazed shank carbide square faced part-off - for grooving
Inclined Mount for tapered 3/32" part off blade - front rake ground to R3/64" for step turning profiles.
Inclined Mount for tapered 3/32" part off blade - but holding a 0.6mm HSS Hacksaw blade sharpened for parting-off - small thin stuff.

I suppose it is interesting as it gives you some idea of the tools I like to keep to hand and mounted. I sometimes have to swop out tools but it doesn't happen often.

This is what I mean by turning profiles with the radiussed part-off blade

I plunge cut to indicated depths to produce a furrowed finish - hand finished by filing, emery etc.

I never grind the top eage of those faceted part off tools and it breaks the chip narrower than the groove - see my prior post on this :-

https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/parting-off-again.33417/#post-369231

Regards, Ken I

 

[Richard Carlstedt]

Ken, I love it ...great idea -Wish I had figured that out
My storage was a mess and I took a plywood board and made holders and glued them in -lots of work and your solution is so simple plus you solved a problem I have, the length of the tools.
When i have boring bars for example. I cannot use the next slot as the tool interferes with that space
Rich

 

[trlvn]

Ken, I love it ...great idea -Wish I had figured that out
My storage was a mess and I took a plywood board and made holders and glued them in -lots of work and your solution is so simple plus you solved a problem I have, the length of the tools.
When i have boring bars for example. I cannot use the next slot as the tool interferes with that space
Rich

Great balls of tool holders!! I count 35 (thirty-five!) on the wall. I'd ask the same question I did of Ken...but I'm not sure I want to read a post that long!

But, what are the two on the extreme right, rows 2 and 3? And what is the lever-handled device (extreme left, row 1)?

Any others that you want to give a shout out to?

Craig
(Who is feeling very tool-holder deficient!)

 

[Richard Carlstedt]

Ken, You are very observant my friend !
First, I made a lot of my own Aloris holders and the tools as well as you can see.
1.The first is a tool post broach.. Made from drawings my friend had...
no idea who drew the plans unfortunately . It's for cutting key ways in the Lathe
2 The second (2 & 3) is a radius turner I made that is very rigid and easy to set.
Many radius turners are hap-hazard when setting the tool.
On mine, the end of the yoke is very precise to the center of rotation (.500") so to get
a radius , I use the depth mike . In the pic the mike is at .500" , so it is simple to set the tool.
Also not seen it the side of the tool has to be a .312" as well. Not The use of snug urethane
bushings.. drop on the 5/8" box wrench and turn --no play
3. This is not a normal tool.. 40 years ago I went to work for a precision die shop that made steel
cups that ALL had to have press fits for assembly.
When the 4140 HT part (2,000 pounds !) missed the dimension it was scrapped as it could not be welded. It also could not be knurled as it sealed liquids upto 10,000 PSI. They had scrapped many many parts before I worked for them and I became a hero when I showed them how to recover the
mis-machined parts. The tool in my picture is just for display to show friends, but it does work .
Lets say you are turning a steel piston and want a 2.000" diameter and miss read the mike and it becomes 1.990 or 1.980" .. no problem .. get a roller from the hardware store that is used for pipe cutters. mount the roller on a shaft and present the roller to the work and impinge it into the work piece about .010" . It will make a grove and upset the metal on each side. Now withdraw and do another and another, and now make a pass at the 2.000" dimension... it may look weird but you have saved the critical dim !
You may call it a cross linear knurl I guess----, never saw it used anywhere else but I got a few thousand $$ bonus for that idea and they never made anymore scrap
Rich