Portass tail stock

[Kingchristo]

Hi it's me again I have been trying to remove the Chuck today but carnt get it off im not sure how to remove it from the tail stock and what live center to get for it thanks guys I'll post a pic soon

 

[Kingchristo]

Here's the picture

 

[Mechanicboy]

Should not it come out of the tailstock when you turn the crankwheel back the tailstock
so it goes in until you get the morsecone out of the tailstock?

 

[JCSteam]

If its like my myford ml4 the shaft on the tail stock will be hollow a suitable size piece of metal round bar, to knock the end of the taper out from inside. When ive got my lathe up and running ill be turning a piece of steel bar to suit the bore, and mounting to a wooden handle.

I think it'll be a MT1 taper, I'll measure mine tommorow. If yours is the same you'll know for sure.

 

[JCSteam]

Also it may be useful to yourself and others in future. If questions regarding the lathe are all left on one thread. If you need to come back to it later, youll know where the info is.

 

[bazmak]

Please follow JCs advice and put all questions on one thread
Please post a couple of overall photos of the lathe for identification
Lathes .uk extracts show what i mean.This site is a hive of info
regards barry

 

[goldstar31]

I agree with the advice given but might add that the problem is likely to be from a ragged No1 Morse taper probably caused by the spinning of the Jacobs chuck arbour!

I could be wrong- of course but in an earlier existence, I used Further education machines which others had misused. I carried around a No2 MT reamer precisely for this purpose. Number 1's are out of an 'older drawer' and that is my guess.

Probably the tailstock 'poppet' will be soft whilst the headstock spindle will be dead hard and you will probably knacker your reamer doing the same on the headstock.

Incidentally, there are TWO varieties of reamer, one is the roughing reamer whilst there is a smoother finishing reamer.

Might I apologise for seeming to 'wander off' but that is the most likely the remedy to future similar occurrences!

And my sympathies are given as Morse taper reamers are 'not cheap' and are easily damaged.

Regards
Norm

 

[bazmak]

Good advice Norm.I bought a couple of MT2 reamers cheap from China
rough and finish havent used them yet but they look adequate for light use

 

[goldstar31]

:hDe:

Hi it's me again I have been trying to remove the Chuck today but carnt get it off im not sure how to remove it from the tail stock and what live center to get for it thanks guys I'll post a pic soon

I think that there should be enough information from members to remove the offending drill chuck-- and how to avoid the same experience in future:wall:

And so to centres? What do I have? Lots!!!! but basically, I would settle for at least one male hard and one female centre, oddly if you can a pair of female ones and then go on to a half centre and at least one rotating centre. Not often seen now but something called a square centre to re-adjust wrongly placed centre holes. Confession is good for the soul and I have been known to go wrong- but know with one of these that I can correct my mistakes:hDe:

OK

Norm

PS Funny things are happening. The possible reason is that the laptop hasn't recovered from being immersed in red wine!

Hic!

 

[JCSteam]

Running a taper reamer into the tail stock and headstock was one of the first recommendations I got for my lathe. The chuck might have just got stuck from old oil been in there if there is any sharp edges the tapers will bind

 

[goldstar31]

JC
it's all to do with the Morse taper 'thing'. OK, you have a hard arbour and a soft poppet but this holding power of the Morse can be rather suspect.

If your maths is up to it this sunny morn, our Mr Morse actually designed ONE taper for all the various diameters based on the principle of a 10" sine bar and a quarter of an inch 'offset'

Of course, it seems that no one could 'hit' the dear old quarter of of an inch.

One of my old mates built a taper turning attachment to fit the back olf his Myford ML7 which he kept under his bed. I Know, I know! Colin was like that. But that is the basis.
Colin went on to produce the first fibreglass racing kayak and made his own hover craft. He used to carry his folding slalom kayak on the side of his motor bike to the National Champiionships.
Last time that I heard of him was that he was teaching dinghy racing at South Shields.

Life is quite boring now. We were all 'Mensa' but it probably wasn't invented then.

Norm

 

[DJP]

If you fully extend the tail stock can you apply heat to expand the taper joint? A 'Heat Wrench' is very effective when things get corroded and stuck.

Just a thought for your consideration.