Picking up an existing hole

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vascon2196

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I have a part with a 0.750 diameter hole I need to pick up. I used a fairly new test indicator, stuffed it into an R8 collet, and proceeded to find the center (like I have done many times).

But my question is, how the heck do you know if you are at each quadrant perfectly? How do you know if you are at 0, 90, 180, and 270?

If I rotate the indicator just slightly the needle moves. I generally "eyeball" the indicator in both X and Y directions but is this good enough?

I had to add a C'sink to an existing hole but when I center the part using the indicator the C'sink was offset to one side.

Am I doing something stupid?

Please and thank you.
 
Maybe the hole you are trying to indicate is not perfectly round ?
I usually set up a dead centre in the mill / drill spindle and use this set the hole up on centre by seating the dead centre down in the hole then clamp the job to the table .
You can also use a piece of round bar ( silver steel or drill rod etc ) to do the same thing as the centre .
 
Yeah, when the indicator is moved all around the pin the movement would be zero if centered. If not, move the part 'til it is zero. Doesn't matter what axis it's on....

Pete
 
I have a part with a 0.750 diameter hole I need to pick up. I used a fairly new test indicator, stuffed it into an R8 collet, and proceeded to find the center (like I have done many times).



But my question is, how the heck do you know if you are at each quadrant perfectly? How do you know if you are at 0, 90, 180, and 270?
If the hole is round you should be able to center things up to the point that you get no dial deflection. If not you are either off center or you don't have a round hole.
If I rotate the indicator just slightly the needle moves. I generally "eyeball" the indicator in both X and Y directions but is this good enough?
Bad dial indicator maybe? The thing is I normally expect a bit of a jump in indicator position when I first start to tram but that should be it. Afterwards you should see no significant movement as the tip of the gage travels around the hole. Do make sure though that you are actually in contact.
I had to add a C'sink to an existing hole but when I center the part using the indicator the C'sink was offset to one side.



Am I doing something stupid?
Stupid no! You could have made a mistake or your gage could have a problem. One gotcha is running a tram with the tip not actually in contact with anything. It is something I worry about as my eyesight has gotten worse. A funky gage can be an issue too, always verify that the gage is working properly.

Oh don't do something like I've done which is to bump an axis handle and not realize it. That might be stupid.

One last gotcha is having the tip of the gage bottomed out so it isn't indicating anything real.

Please and thank you.



As a general note when you are running a tip of a dial indicator in a bore like this the arrangement is less than optimal. You as the machines might not be able to get a good visual on what is happening at the tip and you may have to move around significantly to see the gage. It is much more frustrating than trading a straight edge.

When in doubt you can check alignment buy putting a dowel in the collet and making sure it enters the hole freely before going on with machining. If something is critical doing some sort of verification of the setup is in order. Sometimes that verification can involve simply moving the indicator to a different point in the bore and rereading the gage.

Outside of a bore I might slip a feeler gave under the tip to verify that the tip is actually under pressure. In a bore this is hard to do so your next choice is to bump the axis (turn the lead screw a few thousands) in each quadrant to make sure the needle moves as expected. Of course then you have to move everything back to center. The idea is to verify that the tip is actually in contact all the way around and that the tip isn't bottomed out in some manner.

Your approach might vary from setup to setup. Maybe you don't want to move one axis for some reason. Whatever, sometimes you need to improvise.
 
Thanks guys! I'm going to read through all of these responses and share them with my students. I trammed the mill head and squared the vise in advance. The hole was drilled and bored to 0.750.
 
If I know the size of the small hole, I put the drill that created it(or the closest drill I have) in the mill drill chuck upside down and carefully adjust X and Y until the drill shank enters the hole without moving. Mill is powered off, of course. Small drill bits will flex even on wood. I used this trick just a few minutes ago to pick up a hole for a finishing nail on a circle jig I made for my band saw. Had to extend the range of circles I could cut for a casting pattern I'm making.

Chuck
 
If Your scrounging abilities and resources are good, then a selection of cam follower or shoulder bolts are handy to keep around.
 
The easy way to locate a hole is to use a coaxial indicator. Remarkably quick and accurate. Mine is a very worthwhile addition to my workshop. Dan Gelbart on youtube shows how to use a DIY laser pointer to also centre on a hole which is very cool and has about $5 in parts. It has been discussed on a few forums.
 
If I have done this correctly there should be a picture here. These bolts are probably precision ground but would work for all but the most demanding applications.
SB-10200500---20.jpg
 
Been doing this for over 30 years. I use an Iterapid indicator for all types of indicating. There "on center" design make them the most versatile design available. You can get "interapid style" indicators for around $70. Just about every shop I've ever been in required an Interapid indicator. I don't care what Starret says, Interapids ARE the "last word ".
 
I have a part with a 0.750 diameter hole I need to pick up. I used a fairly new test indicator, stuffed it into an R8 collet, and proceeded to find the center (like I have done many times).



But my question is, how the heck do you know if you are at each quadrant perfectly? How do you know if you are at 0, 90, 180, and 270?



If I rotate the indicator just slightly the needle moves. I generally "eyeball" the indicator in both X and Y directions but is this good enough?



I had to add a C'sink to an existing hole but when I center the part using the indicator the C'sink was offset to one side.



Am I doing something stupid?



Please and thank you.


Ok you don't need to worry about precisely 0,90,180 etc as by eye is good enough , i usually do the X axis first as it is the easiest to see the dial on the indicator .
Get this close to zero needle movement then do the y axis and once you get to a few thousandths you fine tune these two axis again so a 360 deg sweep (rotating in one direction only ) shows no needle movement .
You will get some needle vibration when rotating so stop at approx 0,90,180 and take your reading .

By the way what type of mill are you using ? If it is one of those small sieg x2 mills you need to be aware of head tram and column tram as the head can be out of tram to the column but by tilting the column it can be trammed to the table .
Net result is the spindle actually moves along the x axis as you raise or lower the head so if you set up on centre at one height then raise the head for a long drill bit it will not be on centre .

When you are setting up to find centre with the dti are you nipping up your table locks ?
 
Rod, Have you any further clues about this laser centre finder instructions please
Norm
 
Rod, Have you any further clues about this laser centre finder instructions please
Norm

Dan's Youtube
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otSjut1iGGk[/ame]
Read the comments for clues, then put a few evenings aside to watch the series.

If you simply Google Dan Gelbart laser you'll find plenty of forum threads. This is the laser module i bought for it. (I put 1 of them into an old LED torch to make a pointer with 3 x AA batteries so I could see how bright they were.)

One day I'll do it, can't rush it. My mate actually made one and gave me the plans and parts he did up for his version

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2pcs-Foc...35mm-/121212852782?hash=item1c38d95a2e&_uhb=1

Very interesting guy. Emigrated to Canada from Israel and was one of the founders of Creo who pioneered computer to plate for the printing industry so is an expert on lasers. Did all his own prototyping in his basement where this series is filmed. Started with some machines Creo gave him in lieu of a bonus one year (about $200k worth). Sold Creo to Kodak for $1.0 billion and lived happilly in his basement ever after....
 

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