Peewee V4

[Davewild]

Can someone help me please, I am close to setting the magnets into the timing disk and cannot remember which pole should face the Hall sensor, I think it should be South pole?

 

[ozzie46]

Can someone help me please, I am close to setting the magnets into the timing disk and cannot remember which pole should face the Hall sensor, I think it should be South pole?

Yes, the South pole.

Ron

 

[michael-au]

Looks fantastic Dave good job

Your not far from finished

Michael

 

[Cogsy]

Beautiful. Looks like you don't have much further to go. I got hold of new castings a couple of days ago but won't have any time to work on them for a while. I'm guessing yours will be running before I get back to mine.

 

[Davewild]

Hi Cogsy/ Michael

Not sure if mine will ever run, you remenber a while back I said I had messed up the block, well nothing has changed. I have no idea how I did it but the camshaft tunnel is not centered, i did not notice it until well after boring the tunnel and have no idea how I did it. Anyway because no new casting were available at the tme I carried on regardless and have had to change things along the way to suit, my engine has longer valve lifters on one side of the engine!!! Dirk got hold of me recently and said that new castings are now available, so if it doesnt run I will get a new block and start over and fit all my parts to it, I got another 7 weeks stuck out here (indian Ocean) so should get it pretty much fininshed this trip, it funny how decieving it is, I think im nearly done but there still a few time consuming parts to make. Not happy with the inlet manifold so that a re-make then the carburetor plus lots of other small fittings, I have a plan for the radiator that should look real nice i hope.

 

[stevehuckss396]

Hi Cogsy/ Michael

Not sure if mine will ever run, you remenber a while back I said I had messed up the block, well nothing has changed. I have no idea how I did it but the camshaft tunnel is not centered, i did not notice it until well after boring the tunnel and have no idea how I did it.

To be honest I dont think the cam being "out of place" will be a problem other than the gears being meshed well. If the gears get the cam rotating with minimal slop i believe it will run and probably better than you think.

Have you checked the gear mesh yet?

 

[michael-au]

I agree with Steve the cam being offset shouldn't make a great deal of difference as long as the gears mesh

You have made the lifters longer on one side to compensate for the offset, so they will still travel the same distance giving the same amount of lift, there for the engine should and I believe will run as if the cam was in the center

Good luck, its looking good so far

Michael

 

[Davewild]

To be honest I dont think the cam being "out of place" will be a problem other than the gears being meshed well. If the gears get the cam rotating with minimal slop i believe it will run and probably better than you think.

Have you checked the gear mesh yet?

Hi Steve/Michael

Thanks for your input, I moved the idler gear over to compensate for the error and the gears are quite snug with very minimal backlash, the biggest problem I can see is that the cam timing will be out slightly out, the cam is so far out of centre. Time will tell, Steve can you help me please I cannot find any info on the cam timing I have timed the engine by eye, with exhaust and inlet rocking on TDC on number 1 cylinder, but there must be an exact position for the cam relative to the piston position, I can find nothing in any of the drawings, do you have the info please?

 

[stevehuckss396]

I'll explain how to time everything when I get home from work and on a computer. Posting from a phone stinks.

 

[stevehuckss396]

OK i'm home!

Get a degree wheel fixed to the crankshaft. If you need one use the dial from the cam fixture
Find top dead center of cylinder #1 with an indicator
Find something to use as a pointer and get it pointed at Zero degrees.
Rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise 110 degrees. (110 degrees BTDC)
install the distributor
install the cam and cam gear
Use the distributor to rotate the camshaft until cylinder #1 exhaust valve is fully open. Use indicator to verify. then tighten the screw in the cam gear locking it to the cam.

The camshaft should be timed correctly

Move the crankshaft clockwise back to Zero where you started. You are at the end of the exhaust stroke and beginning the intake stroke stroke.

Now rotate the crankshaft 335 degrees clockwise so that you are 25 degrees before top dead center.

Now you are at the end of the compression stroke and almost the beginning of the power stroke. Right about here is where you are going to fire the ignition.

Install the rotor disk in the distributor and glue the brass contact to it so it is in place to fire cylinder #1.

Heres the bad part. I cant remember how but 2 cylinders fire off the leading edge of the brass strip and 2 fire of the lagging or rear edge. If you cant figure out
which way it works I'll dig into the drawings and figure out which way it goes in.

 

[Davewild]

Great stuff Steve, thanks so much, I have Bobs original drawing set and it has the ignition timing on there, i remember looking at it a working out which cylinder fires on the leading or trailing edge of the rotor arm, I to have forgotten now, wont need it for a while yet. Been working on the radiator, will try and post some pics, internet is real poor!!!

 

[Davewild]

Soldering the coolant tubes, bit messy but got to make do with what I have on hand, im actually in a 10' container on the back deck of the vessel!!!

 

[Davewild]

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[michael-au]

Radiator is looking good Dave

 

[Davewild]

Think I got the scale a bit wrong, it to big!!!!
I used soldering paste for the tubes, great stuff, comes in a syringe, never used it before but will be using it again

 

[michael-au]

I have never used soldering paste either, might have to try it out

Looks good Dave

Should keep it cool enough

Michael

 

[Davewild]

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[Davewild]

Some photos of my progress, all the small fittings are finished and so is the remake manifold, started on the carb today, damn its small!!! I haven't got a 1.5mm end mill which I need for the throttle stop on the carb, can i grind a 3mm one down?
Does the engine oil viscosity have to scale down with size? Basically what oil do you use in these small engine ? I'm thinking thinner?

 

[Davewild]

Sorry for the photo quality, poor internet will not let me upload any better quality

 

[michael-au]

Good work Dave it's coming along nicely