PeeWee V4 slow build

[Cogsy]

The time has finally come to start my build of Bob Shores Peewee V4. I know I don't yet possess the skills I need, but I plan on learning what I need to know along the way.

I've been busily collecting most of what I need, although I'm stuck on a couple of seals that McMaster-Carr refuse to sell me and don't seem to be available anywhere else in the world, but I'm sure I'll solve that problem when I really need to.

This will be my first attempt at using castings and I haven't got the money for any more, so i hope I don't screw them up beyond repair.





They generally look pretty good, although I'm a little disappointed with the Oil Pan casting as it has some surface holes on it. I don't think it will affect operation but I was hoping to polish it up to simulate a chromed, tin pan rather than a casting.




The metal is a heat treated aluminium that's supposed to machine nicely and I'm eager to make a start.

I don't know how long it will take me to finish but I know it won't be for a long time. Fingers crossed, I'd like to have it running by Christmas 2015 but that may be unrealistic.

 

[gus]

Hi Al,

No Worries. Take your time. In our retirement, there is no date line. No bosses breathing down our neck.

 

[mikemott]

Is it possible to get the manufacturer to replace the oil pan exchanged for a better one? If it were my business it would be replaced no questions asked ,the metal would go back in the pot.

Michael

 

[Cogsy]

Thanks Gus, but unfortunately I still have work to do (I just turned 40...).

Michael, I'm in Australia and the castings came out of the USA. Postage time both ways would be at least a month and the oil pan is needed for the first machining operation. I'll have a think on it. Maybe I can start with the crank, etc first while I wait for a replacement. If I don't start machining something soon I'm going to chicken out though.

 

[mikemott]

Al I hear you. You could send them a picture and ask that they just send you a new one right away, and you will return their bad one collect.

Michael

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Cogsy--Make a new oilpan from a block of 6061 aluminum. It doesn't look like it would be that difficult.---Brian

 

[aonemarine]

you paid for it, you should get it replaced for free. that casting flaw may run way more than skin deep...

 

[GKNIPP]

Believe me, you may be surprised at how fast the new part will come. No kidding, I have had better luck with timely postage from overseas versus here in the States.

Greg

 

[bmac2]

Hi Al
I have to agree with aonemarine, if the company’s reputation is worth its salt they should supply a replacement and I can’t see any logical reason to have to return the defective part. If you want we could all gang up on them with e-mail? *knuppel2*
Worst case you could do like Brian (engine builder and now author ) suggested and make one from solid.
Over the last couple of months I keep looking over the Whippet plans but I make way too many parts twice to dare anything with castings yet. I’ve got my chair pulled up on this one so if you feel you have someone looking over your shoulder, it’s only me. Take your time, I’m in no hurry.Thm:

 

[stevehuckss396]

Best of luck Cogsy. If you need anything let me know. I have some pictures and a complete drawing set from building mine. When you bought the plans were you supplied this set of drawings? If so make sure you have version 1.01.

I also checked and found I have the front and rear crank seals in stock. I could ship them for the same price as McMaster Carr plus shipping if your interested.

 

[Cogsy]

Thanks for the ideas and support guys. I've had the castings a few months - I should've examined them more closely but I was more concerned about a different flaw on the oil pan, which turns out to be all machined away so it doesn't matter. Anyway, I don't feel right about raising this issue after so long has passed. If I come across any hidden/internal flaws that affect the engine I will definitely go back to the seller.

So I have 3 plans now.

1. I could try and source locally some aluminium solder and see if I can patch it up. Not sure if that's going to be economically viable though.
2. I'll attempt to make one from solid. I know I can make one that will function correctly but I'm not sure I can make one that will look right. Looks are important to me on this build so that's a big factor.
3. I can just use the one I've got. The holes will still be there but at least they'll be underneath and difficult to see. It means I can't polish the pan as planned but it will still look pretty good painted.

I'll work on plans 1&2 and keep 3 as a backup.

bmac - I'm in exactly the same boat as you. I make many parts twice before they're good enough but you only get 1 shot at a casting. My plan is to go through every machining step 2 or 3 times before actually cutting, especially the 'easy' stuff where simple errors are easily made. Realistically, the block and bell housing are probably the only bits I couldn't make from solid if I had to, and it should be nearly impossible to go wrong on the bell housing. That just leaves the terrifying thought of machining the block - and it's the first step

Steve - I got Bob's original plans on paper with the castings, as well as electronic versions 1.00 and 1.01 of yours. I've printed 1.01 out and I'll be running with them. They sure look good, even I should be able to follow them!

And thanks for the offer of the seals, it'd be great to get them off you. Just send me a PM with the cost and Paypal address to pay and I'll shoot off the payment. Postage is to Western Australia post code 6112.

BTW Steve - it was stumbling across your Peewee video on Youtube that got me hooked on this engine. I hope mine turns out half as good as yours.

 

[Swifty]

I've used aluminium welding sticks from Bunnings, they come 2 to a packet. Not much good where any force is involved, but would be fine for filling holes. I used a Mapp torch with them.

Paul.

 

[Cogsy]

Sounds good Paul. I found some in my local Bunnings (4 to a pack for $10). It doesn't mention any requirement for fluxing but I assume I'll have to have a nice clean part to start with. Any idea how to achieve that with a raggedy hole?

 

[canadianhorsepower]

I'll have to have a nice clean part to start with. Any idea how to achieve that with a raggedy hole?

Hi I would grind the excess so you would have a nice concave finish
and build it from there.

I think you should go to a welding shop that does aluminium with a tig
and ask him to weld it.
I have a Tig and do aluminium but the problem is that Aluminium
oxydise real fast and doing a good job without any gas could be challenging

good luck

 

[Swifty]

Cogsy, no flux required for the Bunnings sticks. The ones I have do a good looking fillet weld, but the joint is not strong.

Paul.

 

[stevehuckss396]

And thanks for the offer of the seals, it'd be great to get them off you.

BTW Steve - it was stumbling across your Peewee video on Youtube that got me hooked on this engine. I hope mine turns out half as good as yours.

I just double checked and the seals I thought would work were 5/16. I have 1/4 but they are too thick. Sorry to get your hopes up.


Half as good? Shoot for twice as good and settle for just as good.

 

[gus]

Hi Cogsy,
Gus will be following your thread closely. For now I am not up to mark to make any engines beyond one cylinder. I have a very serious disease--------''Impatientitis''. Usual symptom flares up at last cut.
There so many minor projects to pick. For now will do the DIY ''MiniMagneto'' to drive the Webster Engine.
Take Care. Take lotsa tea breaks before the last cut.

 

[aonemarine]

I remember having a conversation awhile back about castings, and I'm pretty sure it was about Bob shores. I had though he poured his own castings, but had actually had a foundry do them.
The discussion was about how well they machined, they didn't gum up like cast aluminium will if its not aged or heat treated. After researching someone pointed out that the castings are not aluminum, but a magnesium aluminum alloy. Someone double check me on this please....
Keep this in mind when welding on them....

 

[gus]

Aluminium Crankcase Cover

Have done my fair share aluminium gravity castings . The pour temperature cannot be too high and hence shrinkage. Getting ideal pour temperature can be tough. The pattern profile comes into play too. Pouring speed too. Degassing,fluxing and refinement a must.
In 1986 Gus spent two weeks in the foundry at Shanghai Heavy Compressor plant. My Foundry Gurus were cramming into my poor head with their knowhow. Big pieces 715 C and small pieces 730 C. Applies to their aluminium alloys only. Gus was using any old aluminium scraps and came up with best pouring temperature at 680---690C. Cast and machines 300 pcs aluminium condensate traps
Gravity Casting engine pistons in Cast Iron Moulds is another skill. Spent three days auditing piston supplier in Southern China and pretending to be expert. Got smart and let them do all the talking.

 

[e.picler]

Hi Cogsy!
I will be following your project with very close interest.
More than a year ago I also purchased a casting kit for the PeeWee V4. I have checked the casting after reading your thread and I found everything to be OK.
I have got it from Dirk Tollenaar in USA I think he has the rights to sell the castings and plans. He was very nice with me with an outstanding service.

After finishing the actual project `Tiny 4 inline from Kelly`I plan to get the hands on the PeeWee in order to get more `skills` on multi-cylinder V configuration before I start my dream project wich is the V8 from Steve Huckess.

I wish you the best on your building.

Edi