parts for an old time genny.

[Kermit]

raw material for the field magnet iron is ready.

As for plans, this is what I have so far.

Coming along slowly,
Kermit

 

[stevehuckss396]

Here are some pics I took at the rouge steel here in detroit.

This 8000 amp genny was driven by a 2800 HP motor. This might be original equipment installed by Henry Ford back in 1927. This is below ground level inder the white shed where the van is sitting.

 

[Kermit]

I think my newbie eye hasn't yet learned to tell the difference between what a part done on the lathe looks like vs. one done with a mill.

The style of genny I want to build is mostly a "milling" worked part.

What I need for this year is a genny project that can be made with just the lathe and some SMALL milling appropriate to the milling attachment I put in my lathe tool post.

After spending all weekend burning my wooden brain in thought about this, I found a genny that looks like it has much less need of milling operations. I'm sure another roadblock will appear(they always do) but I'm inexperienced enough not to be able to see them coming ;D

Any advice along the lines of doing this Without milling would be appreciated. So without further delay, here is the modified plan

 

[steamer]

Check out Elmers generator.....

Dave

 

[Kermit]

So, what I see in ELMERS plans is this piece which needs to be milled.

I think I could manage that on the lathe attachment. Thank you Steamer, I wouldn't have remembered this little generator without you.

 

[RobWilson]

Hi Kermit
i have some drawings and info on the type of gen your building, can scan them if it would help.

Regards Rob

 

[Kermit]

Those plans look excellent Rob! I don't think I'm currently talented enough to build that one yet, but I will most certainly take you up on that offer. Perhaps next year? I AM going to build it but I need some other simplier tasks completed and lots more reading and schooling before I'm ready to tackle that one.

Thanks for the kind replies,
Kermit

 

[Tin Falcon]

I think my newbie eye hasn't yet learned to tell the difference between what a part done on the lathe looks like vs. one done with a mill.

Any advice along the lines of doing this Without milling would be appreciated.

The old adage is that the lathe is to make round things and the mill and shaper for square things.
In the machinist world there are many times mill guys and lathe guys. If your favored tool is the lathe you will do most of your work on that . Or if you like mill work that will be favored. I definitely favor the lathe but as the cnc comes to completion that may change at least until I cnc the lathe LOL. Just do what works for you . As my USAF sheet metal instructor used to say when I completed one step of a project "Press ON!"
Tin

 

[steamer]

What I meant was take a look and see how he did it.

He may have some ideas on how to do some of the parts in a lathe.

I will ponder your plight and touch back in a bit......chear up, a lathe can do anything......you just have to ask politely ;D

 

[steamer]

Zee,

What you need is an index head to go with your milling attachment. You will also need a sacraficial face plate....good news is you can make them yourself.


Does your milling attachment look like this?
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1681&category=1

If so you need an Atlas style indexer. I have the plans for that beast somewhere, I will dig them up and send them to you. Here's the idea/sketch

The Sacraficial faceplate is just that, sacraficial!...you will make it from a piece of 6" round aluminum. You can get that at Metal Express all cut to length. It has a 3/4" diameter spindle that can be a piece of TGP mild steel. You can get that from them also.

Here's the basic idea at a part routing.....
After blueing up with a good sharpy marker and carefully laying the stator out

1 through drill the plates and tap drill the faceplate. Mount the plates to the faceplate at the 4 corners and using the indexer, drill for the tap drill for the 6 bolts. Clearance drill the plates for the screw size, and then tap the holes in the faceplate. Put in the 6 bolts into the faceplate. You could just lay this job out and do it on the drill press. The chordal distance between the 6 holes is equal to the radius of the bolt circle. If you raise a burr between the plates after the drilling you will need to disassemble them and debur before you go on.

2. bore the 3" hole.....you can cut part way into the faceplate. Start with a drill and bore it out with a boring bar. I put a reduced diameter on the faceplate so that you could chuck it up easily in the 4 jaw......you can do it in a 3 jaw, but not as accurately.
You should get the 4 jaw anyways.

3. Set the faceplate and its spindle in the index block, and pick up on the bolt holes for angular location and center on the 3" bore..

4. Raise the milling attachment up by the width of the "tongue" and prepare to mill the slots to the mark out line. Mill the slots by indexing the faceplate.

5. Use the Bogstandard technique for turning round slugs to turn the OD. This of course after you take the corner bolts out.
CAN SOMEBODY dig that article up?

6. You will end up with the colored little triangles at the bottom of the slots. I would with the equipment you have just file them to the line carefully.. I think trying to do circular milling with this arrangelment is far to dangerous. It will get away from you.

To file this accurately, you will need to make a pair of filing guides. They are made in the lathe. When you get that far, I'll show you.

 

[Kermit]

Whew, ;D

That's what I call 'suggestions'. Thank you very much Steamer!

As for milling equipment. Here is what I got...

I have plans for the getting the mill in my house by Christmas, I hope sooner, but most likely later than that.

I'm gonna try making Elmers little generator first. I just need to make something easy enough for me to complete, without finding out I need more things to go with all the things I have already.

I should also be getting a MT3 tapered manual endmill holder, so no more endmills in the chuck looking like stubby drill bits. Hopefully that will increase the rigidity of my setup at least a smidge.

Again, thanks to everyone for all the replies.
Kermit

 

[steamer]

Hi Kermit,

Yes I know a bit long winded.....A bit unrealistic, in the sense that it would be a struggle, but it could very well be done with what you have and some gumption.

My point was to show you that the "King of machine tools" can be asked to do all kinds of things.....fire her up and put some scrap aluminum in there and try!

Alexander Graham Bell I believe said " Make mistakes as fast as you can, you will learn something!"

Just go slow and think about what your doing......

Now with that rig, I suspect Elmers armature will be short work...I'm expecting pictures! ;D

Dave

 

[Kermit]

So, I have never used a four jaw chuck before. It requires centering.

Don't know what rule I broke doing it, but it was successfully centered quite quickly.

Next problem was to clean up the interior of a ring, but I have no boring bars or anything round to mount them in. Broke some more rules I'm sure by placing two 1/4" HSS cutters beneath the tool to bring it up to center line. But the result was a nice part.

Now I kinda know how to do it ;D


This is fun; I just wish I knew what that part is for.
Kermit

 

[steamer]

Kermit,

If you get the right answer, you did it right!..... ;D

Good for you!....... :bow:

what assembly does that part want to be part of?


Most people starting out hate 4 jaws.....I know I did.....but they grow on ya and they are a much more ridgid and adaptable chuck than a three jaw.

It would appear you figured it out on your own......working the jaws in opposite pairs works for me

Dave

 

[Maryak]

Kermit,

Good one, necessity is often the mother of invention and innovation. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob

 

[Kermit]

what assembly does that part want to be part of?

I'm thinking it would look good as a flywheel. However, spokes and hub would need to be made AND centered exactly...perhaps I should think of something else. ???

Good one, necessity is often the mother of invention and innovation.

Thanks, that does alot for my confidence in myself.




Steamer, I think I just came up with an idea for how to use the ring as part of the magnetic circuit of the genny. Let me make a few sketches and see how much machining it would require to utilize sections of the ring as pole pieces at the armature face.

Always doing something and thinking afterwards,
Kermit

 

[Kermit]

Okay. I'll need to make some different sized spacers to make the magnets fit and I'll have to use three instead of two magnets. but the pole shoes should make it easier than boring out the uprights to provide for the curved fit as in the old design.


We now return you to your regularly scheduled project; already in progress,
Kermit

View attachment dynamo2small.pdf

 

[steamer]

Hi Kermit,

I would do the final shaping of the stator ( bore) as an assembly.

You will get a much tighter fit and if you follow his directions, you bore the bearings out too in the same set up.

Anytime you can do multiple diameters in the same setup, you just about garuantee concentric diameters......Something to strive for in all of our small creations..........ask me how I know this : ;D

The set up seems ugly, but you have everything you need.....

Dave

 

[Kermit]

I gave up with the attempt at boring the two bars as an assy. on the lathe. I could never get a setup that seemed safe enough to spin up on the lathe. Parts just seem a little oversized for the setup I have. Or it that just me?

Anywho, I'll post a pic or two later today. I'm taking it with me to visit with the Big Mills at work. :-X

Shhhh! Don't tell anyone. I'll just take credit for all the work when I have it done, And......


Kermit

 

[Kermit]

Soft 1018 cut to size. Second time effort, armed with more knowledge of what not to do. ;D

Skipped the part where I mount it on my lathe, then crap my pants, and took it straight in to work. The sight of those big Bridgeport knee mills scared all the rust right off them two parts. Just Look!

Next up is a drilling and reaming job for a stainless steel bolt that will go through a 3/16 hole in the magnets, and in the two field pieces.

Kermit

View attachment drawing1.pdf