Oboe feather stand

[lee webster]

I designed an oboe feather stand using Designspark mechanical. Text isn't a strong point of DS and I felt I might do better using SolidEdge. I am not well versed in SE so I watched several videos concerning text and extruding to a surface, and then trimming the protrusion. It wasn't easy!

The SE stand is on the left, there is a twenty pence for scale between the stands. I will paint the SE stand with the text painted a different colour.

 

[GreenTwin]

Those are nice.

You going to cast those?

.

 

[lee webster]

I hadn't planned to cast one, but the one with the large lettering would look good in aluminium. The thing is, the 3D print is one piece, and with the lettering as well... I don't want to destroy the print by burning it out of an investment plaster mould, so I wonder if making a silicone mould of the print and then getting a wax piece from that would work. The 3D print is also hollow, the walls are about 4mm thick. If I was going to cast it I would prefer to use aluminium from damaged Austin Seven engine and gearbox castings. The oboe and feather belonged to a late friend who was an A7 owner. I have cast a small picture frame from A7 aluminium, but the metal was die cast grade, very difficult to get it to work. The frame looks good with a pencil sketch done by my friend fitted. It is a nice idea though.

 

[GreenTwin]

It would be tricky to cast and maintain the letter quality with bound sand.

A silicon mold would work, but I don't have experience with that, but have seen it done.

Looks great in whatever material.

.

 

[Steamchick]

A "proper" pattern would be made with draught angles to permit release ot the pattern from a sand mould... but an investment casting would not. I have heard of people using silocon to capture the shape, then making a wax solid version, in order to make a mould in plaster or similar, for casting. I have also heard of dental mould making materials being used? ( A guy in work discussed this with his dentist who told him what to buy, and he successfully did some investment casting in aluminium, I think...? But I only saw the delivery of Dental casting materials in a large box.). Must be something on Utube...
K2

 

[lee webster]

I have watched several videos where a complex pattern is coated in silicone to a good thickness and then the silicone is either cut from the pattern or peeled off. The silicone is brushed on which virtually eliminates bubbles. After curing, the silicone is then filled with resin to produce the final piece, sometimes many pieces, the main benifit of a silicone mould. The company that produces the videos is called "Brick in the wall". A wax pouring wouldn't be as strong as resin, but fairly easy to repair if damaged during removal. The wax could then be coated with an investment, I have seen plasterboard jointing compound used for this, in America it's called "drywall mud". The wax is then burnt out and the mould filled with molten metal. In my case it would be aluminium, but brass would look good too. I am wondering if it would be worth the effort when I have so much to do.

 

[Zeb]

Nice. I was thinking instead of casting, one could loctite or solder two hex diameters and machine the final profile. Or if you have a mill, mill the flats on the small end using the large hex. Then maybe etch with ferric chloride, since raised text is so tricky to both machine and cast sharply. I did a little study and some features are trickier than they appear.

 

[lee webster]

Zeb, what can I say except wow! I could use SolidEdge to produce a rendered view of the piece, I hadn't thought of it until I saw your render, which programme did you use?
You list your location as Camelot, I've been there with my local car club. A very interesting Post office is near the car park. A few of my friends were asked to pose by their cars for a local paper.

 

[Zeb]

Hi Lee,
I used a Parasolid modeler like SolidEdge and exported an .obj to Blender for rendering.
Camelot is a tongue-in-cheek reference to Monty Python. No clue about the real place existing as I'm across the pond, but riding the Camelot 4-6-0 on the Bluebell railway would be a real treat!
Sorry about the spam. Always looking for modeling challenges as I'm always in need of practice.

 

[lee webster]

To me, challenges are what keeps me going. Never stop! I will try rendering my design in SolidEdge, it won't be as good as yours, but I fancy a challenge.
To those of us that live in Cornwall, Camelot, like dragons and Piskies (yes, that is spelt right) are very real.

 

[ajoeiam]

I hadn't planned to cast one, but the one with the large lettering would look good in aluminium. The thing is, the 3D print is one piece, and with the lettering as well... I don't want to destroy the print by burning it out of an investment plaster mould, so I wonder if making a silicone mould of the print and then getting a wax piece from that would work. The 3D print is also hollow, the walls are about 4mm thick. If I was going to cast it I would prefer to use aluminium from damaged Austin Seven engine and gearbox castings. The oboe and feather belonged to a late friend who was an A7 owner. I have cast a small picture frame from A7 aluminium, but the metal was die cast grade, very difficult to get it to work. The frame looks good with a pencil sketch done by my friend fitted. It is a nice idea though.

I like it - - - - honoring a friend in a bunch of their own complexities - - - very very nice and imo very appropriate.