Mystery steam engine

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Assuming everything is correct, here is my design for the piston valve. The fact the valve runs in an inserted sleeve explains a lot. I was having trouble believing the accuracy of what we thought were tiny cored port holes.

As it is running in a non-ferrous sleeve I have not shown piston rings, but labyrinth grooves instead.

There is not much space at either end of the valve for fixing it to the rod. The valve needs to be allowed a small amount of float radially on the rod. I have drawn alternatives of a traditional pair of locknuts at the top end, or a threaded collar at the bottom, but I think the collar arrangement will be easier to use at both ends. The locknuts would have to be very thin.

I have not been able to fit in a design that would allow adjustment in situ, from the top. Instead it will have to be tried, and the whole assembly withdrawn for adjustment, unscrewing from the die block below. (They have to do this on full size railway locomotives.)

The valve could be made from phospor bronze, or perhaps stainless steel if your machining is good enough.

I suggest you make a plug a tight sliding fit in the bore to use as a gauge. You could use it with a little metal polish like Brasso to make sure the bore is smooth.
 

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Assuming everything is correct, here is my design for the piston valve. The fact the valve runs in an inserted sleeve explains a lot. I was having trouble believing the accuracy of what we thought were tiny cored port holes.

As it is running in a non-ferrous sleeve I have not shown piston rings, but labyrinth grooves instead.

There is not much space at either end of the valve for fixing it to the rod. The valve needs to be allowed a small amount of float radially on the rod. I have drawn alternatives of a traditional pair of locknuts at the top end, or a threaded collar at the bottom, but I think the collar arrangement will be easier to use at both ends. The locknuts would have to be very thin.

I have not been able to fit in a design that would allow adjustment in situ, from the top. Instead it will have to be tried, and the whole assembly withdrawn for adjustment, unscrewing from the die block below. (They have to do this on full size railway locomotives.)

The valve could be made from phospor bronze, or perhaps stainless steel if your machining is good enough.

I suggest you make a plug a tight sliding fit in the bore to use as a gauge. You could use it with a little metal polish like Brasso to make sure the bore is smooth.
Awsome charles thank you heeeeps
And jason aswell
I probably go for phosphorbronze
Would have less wear? In the cylinder
Than stainless steel
Im not a turner by trade
Im sheetmetal
I can do it bud probably not like you guys
Anyway
I keep you updated
I make everything and assemble
Boiler almost done aswell .i will mount it
All on a nice piece of timber
Thank you all
Chris
 

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