Mystery steam engine
- Thread starter chris123
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Looks like its about 7 hundrets out of whack
Would equal about 3 thou i think
Bud it seems its everywhere about he same
On first looks
Maybe centers worn?
Chris
Attachments
Another
Attachments
Attachments
The eccentric are ok
I dont get it
I dont get it
It does not take much to bind a model engine.
Some minor misalignment will do it.
I found that out when I took one of my dad's engines apart (before I got into model engine making), to measure it, and then reassembled it without paying attention to the orientation of parts, shims in critical places, and the general process of aligning things during assembly (called "fitting" I think in the old days for the big engines).
It should be pretty easy to troubleshoot a model engine, especially one as well built as the one you have, even if it does have some problems.
Work from the bottom up.
Install one crankshaft bearing cap at a time, and shim if necessary so that you can tighten the cap bolts without binding the bearing.
Rotate the crankshaft between each cap installation, and make sure it rotates freely.
Make sure the piston slides easily up and down in each cylinder, with the piston rod protruding out the bottom cylinder head and gland.
Be sure that when the piston moves full up and down travel, it does not bind in the rod guide.
We know there is misalignment between the valve rod and the die block.
You can rotate things without the valve rod being connected to the die block, to verify that everything else moves freely.
Test every moving piece individually for free movement, and retest after any two moving parts are connected.
This is a hobby of meticulous attention to detail, and patience.
I had to learn both of those things, and it was definitely an exercise in frustration before it all settled into my head.
Don't try to solve every problem overnight.
If it gets too frustrating, put it aside for a day or two, and take a mental rest.
I made the crankshaft bearings for my green twin out of some very nice boat shaft bronze, and they looked great.
I installed them, and found out about the stiction factor for boat shaft bronze.
Boat shaft bronze adheres to a steel crankshaft about like superglue, regardless of how much clearance is added.
Very frustrating situation, but the solution was to toss the boat shaft bronze bearings in the garbage, and make new bearings from bearing bronze.
Solve one problem at a time; reassemble one piece at a time.
You seem to have very good mechanical aptitude, and so you are way ahead of the game from that respect.
You just have to learn the idiosyncrasies of model engines.
.
Some minor misalignment will do it.
I found that out when I took one of my dad's engines apart (before I got into model engine making), to measure it, and then reassembled it without paying attention to the orientation of parts, shims in critical places, and the general process of aligning things during assembly (called "fitting" I think in the old days for the big engines).
It should be pretty easy to troubleshoot a model engine, especially one as well built as the one you have, even if it does have some problems.
Work from the bottom up.
Install one crankshaft bearing cap at a time, and shim if necessary so that you can tighten the cap bolts without binding the bearing.
Rotate the crankshaft between each cap installation, and make sure it rotates freely.
Make sure the piston slides easily up and down in each cylinder, with the piston rod protruding out the bottom cylinder head and gland.
Be sure that when the piston moves full up and down travel, it does not bind in the rod guide.
We know there is misalignment between the valve rod and the die block.
You can rotate things without the valve rod being connected to the die block, to verify that everything else moves freely.
Test every moving piece individually for free movement, and retest after any two moving parts are connected.
This is a hobby of meticulous attention to detail, and patience.
I had to learn both of those things, and it was definitely an exercise in frustration before it all settled into my head.
Don't try to solve every problem overnight.
If it gets too frustrating, put it aside for a day or two, and take a mental rest.
I made the crankshaft bearings for my green twin out of some very nice boat shaft bronze, and they looked great.
I installed them, and found out about the stiction factor for boat shaft bronze.
Boat shaft bronze adheres to a steel crankshaft about like superglue, regardless of how much clearance is added.
Very frustrating situation, but the solution was to toss the boat shaft bronze bearings in the garbage, and make new bearings from bearing bronze.
Solve one problem at a time; reassemble one piece at a time.
You seem to have very good mechanical aptitude, and so you are way ahead of the game from that respect.
You just have to learn the idiosyncrasies of model engines.
.
Thank you green twin
You know i thought i let u guys exactly know
Whats going on with that engine
So you can get an overall pic
For example the carank was always hard
If the sliders on on the piston conrods
Where up
Then i disconnected the shaft and found the
Lp small piston rod slider jams up on the end
I do ic engines and steam wasnt in my repertoire until i took that thing out if the diesel
Thats why i reached out to people who know what they talking about
I dont think its gonna be a big problem
With the crank i just was stoked
If i started checking it
You know
I always thought the old boys have been
Super precise and and and…..
Bud what they realy have been is
Smart
I saw it with the gnome
Does solutions
Around 1915
Anyway
Thank you heeps guys for your help
Chris
As you say, the problem with measuring run-out between centres is that it may be the centres that are out. Better to rest the crankshaft in the bottom half of the two outer bearing brasses only, with the two middle ones removed, and then clock the middle journals.
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