My Take on a Tangential Tool Holder

[rleete]

I've been wanting to make one of these for quite a few years. Thanksgiving week finally gave me the opportunity to make one. First, I cut a block out of some steel I got as scrap. Had to buy a new bandsaw blade, as the old one just wasn't cutting it (pun intended).

Next, I made a P.V.C. angle block using my engineer's protractor. Then I set the part in the mill and cut the top and bottom faces parallel. Then I drilled a hole for the HSS tool bit. Plan was to simply file it out square. Unfortunately, my square file leaves far too large a radius in the corners, so I resorted to a combination of broaching using the tool bit and filing with needle files. It was a lot more effort than anticipated, and I have new appreciation for those old time apprentices that had to make stuff by hand.

Next step was to drill and ream a cross hole for the clamp. Then I set it up (as shown in another thread) for cutting the chamfers on the nose. Finally, I stuck it in the soft jaws and filed the whole thing smooth and even, adding the radii where I thought it needed more clearance. A quick wipe on the deburring wheel resulted in this:


Now I needed a way to clamp the tool in place. I decided on split cotters, as they are quick and easy to make, and have a surprising amount of clamping force. This was the result of that endeavor:


And all assembled:

 

[timo_gross]

Did you already try the tool? How does it work?

 

[trlvn]

Beautiful! To get an idea of scale, what size of tool bit is it designed for?

Craig
(PS Great photography. Are you using a light box?)

 

[PeterDRG]

Bravo ! One of my memories of Cherry is being presented of one by her husband, Ivan. He liked making tools.

 

[rleete]

Did you already try the tool? How does it work?

Yes, I tried it. Using mild steel, I was able to take a .010" deep cut with no chatter. Very nice surface finish. This is using the standard 7x minilathe.

 

[rleete]

Beautiful! To get an idea of scale, what size of tool bit is it designed for?

Craig
(PS Great photography. Are you using a light box?)

I use 5/16" tooling almost exclusively.

As to pictures, I use a table saw covered in a sheet of white paper from a poster frame, with an LED light right above it.

 

[kiwi2]

Hi,
I've had a pair of tangential tool holders from Eccentric Engineering for years and am a big fan. I'm useless at grinding the top relief needed on tool steel cutters for turning steel and used to avoid doing so whenever I could. Grinding the cutters for a tangential tool is dead easy using the Eccentric Engineering grinding jig and now I prefer cutting steel rather than brass.
You (rlete) went to a lot of trouble cutting the square hole to hold the square tool steel cutters. It may have been easier to drill a round hole to accept round tool steel. A round cutter gives a really good surface finish (better than square cutters) but can be a problem if you are turning up to a shoulder. If that is the case, it's fairly easy to cut two faces at right angles on the side of the cutter on the ground end.
I have found that round cutters in a tangential holder are excellent for turning wood. Even cutting across the end grain gives a smooth finish with no tearing out of the fibres. I made a tangential tool (round) holder for my ball turning attachment for making wooden balls which require no further finishing before varnishing.
Regards,
Alan C.

 

[Steamchick]

Maybe I'll make a round tool holder? But as I usually work with around 0.020" ~0.040" radius for corner radii where a square corner is not needed, that would be 1 - to 2 mm diameter tool -- Hmmm, not so good!
But I like your idea for wood. What diameter bit do you use? I have a piece of 1/4" for a tool bit.
K2

 

[kiwi2]

Hi K2,
I use 1/4" dia. round tool steel to cut wood. The clean cuts you get using a tangential cutter are also useful when cutting threads. I used to have to clean up single point turned threads with a die nut but now they are good to go straight off the lathe.
Regards,
Alan C.

 

[Steamchick]

Thanks Alan, Interesting advice.
Personally, I finish threads with a chaser, as I have a couple of metric (60degree) thread tools, but other threads are not 60 degrees, and my "hand ground tools" are not perfect, compared to the proprietary chasers. (But I rarely need to turn a thread, as I have many dies).
A question. A tangential tool would normally use a square or round tool bit, but for thread turning you must be grinding the tool to the thread angle. Can you post a photo so we can see your tool please, with the thread profile? It will help explain to all I think.
Thanks,
K2

 

[ChazzC]

Thanks Alan, Interesting advice.
Personally, I finish threads with a chaser, as I have a couple of metric (60degree) thread tools, but other threads are not 60 degrees, and my "hand ground tools" are not perfect, compared to the proprietary chasers. (But I rarely need to turn a thread, as I have many dies).
A question. A tangential tool would normally use a square or round tool bit, but for thread turning you must be grinding the tool to the thread angle. Can you post a photo so we can see your tool please, with the thread profile? It will help explain to all I think.
Thanks,
K2

Some info from Eccentric Engineering:



https://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/products/diamond-tool-holder/the-diamond-tool-holder


https://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/products/diamond-tool-holder/features-and-tips

 

[Henry K]

The Eccentric Tool holder is great for turning and threading. It clearly put much less strain on the lathe and makes it very good for non professionals. I supervise machine shop labs for a University with a BSME program (among others) and bought 2 out of my own pocket because it makes machining so much easier for the total newbees I have in my labs. (We train degreed Engineers, not machinists)
Threading angle is perfect with included sharpening fixture which has a different setup for perfect grinding of turning tools weather square or round.

 

[Steamchick]

Thanks Henry,
As I made my own (from scrap - cost = zilch!) from simply copying the pictures and making suitable drawings, it works fine. Just like the video. Easy to get the correct cutting top relief using the grinding fixture. Also easy to accurately set centre height. - A novice can learn to do it in seconds? - well maybe a few minutes.
BUT to have a 55degree thread cutting tool would mean grinding the Square to "Something other than 60 degrees" - (Not done the geometry to work it out).
So I was wondering what the "official" way of doing this was... Looks like a different angle tool bit at 1 min.15secs. on the video. The geometry of the tool makes the 90degree square bit into about an 80 degree angle on the job, (7min37secs on Video) so there is side relief from the point. I guess the similar on a 60degree tool would give a 50degree thread?? .... OOOPS! at 8min 24secs he shows how to grind the tool shape to the thread gauge... - Thereby no advantage to grinding and sharpening the tool compared to conventional tool grinding. And the use of the pointed tool bit (from square) is abandoned as the thread tool needs a radius on the point...

BUT I can see an advantage - especially to the "simple" Newby who wants a "tool for all jobs" - until he develops his expertise at making all the specials we end up owning...
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=65184789
But if it is adequate for you... Enjoy! After the first year, mine is no longer fixed in the tool post, as I have more specialised tools held there, (Cutting angles for various materials, directions, etc.).
I can do thread cutting with conventional tools, so the tangential tool will not become a Thread cutter in my workshop. And carbide tips are cheap enough and SO accurate! if I want to go that route?).

Thanks for the advice all!
K2

 

[Niels Abildgaard]

There is another way to make tangential holders illustrated from 17 feb 2013 in thread
Tangential holder squeese

or another thread

TanTool

 

[KellisRJ]

FWIW. I use the |Good|Quick|Cheap| you can have any two model. Which two are selected can and does change depending on what I need when and if I have the skills to do what I want. They have changed more now that I'm retired.

I still destroy more material than usable, and for the reasons given above use the tangental tool holders the most, for me far cheaper than carbide inserts and I believe easier on a ~70 year old lathe. For the mill I have, slowy, learned to grind HHS to use in fly cutters.