My projecet (howll's v4)

[dsage]

I think I figured out my problem. Off the engine I'm turning the pump too slow. I was using my battery drill which only turns 580rpm. I put it on my AC drill and at 2800 rpm it pumps fine. I think on the engine it probably turns at least 1000rpm. All I have to do is get it primed properly on the engine.

Thanks for confirmation of the pump operation. Sorry for disrupting this thread.

Looking forward to the video (or at least a picture) of your engine Les.


Sage

 

[Lesgsy]

I've put a small 8 ba bolt and a o'ring in the top of my pump to help the bleeding,it seems to work well
View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1419180533.455228.jpg
Hope this helps
Les.

 

[Lesgsy]

Hi
Well I've got it running well enough to get a vidio done, it's running with a temporary rad,well the whole setups temporary!
I've made a good start on the rad,when it's finished and fitted I'll get another vidio done with it looking good and finished
http://youtu.be/tT9L4GWh71c

 

[dsage]

WOW !!

That's fantastic Les. It runs so well. Great Job. I like that you painted the fins on the head and the rocker arm supports as well. Did you find the plasticoat paint that I suggest (that Jerry told me he used) or another one.

And holy smoke s- that water pump works really well. I might still have to re-visit mine. I like the idea of the priming port. I think I'll try that. Do you have to fill the pump through that or just let gravity fill it until water comes out the hole?

Thanks for showing us.

Sage

 

[Swifty]

Great engine, I can see that I will have to build one in the future. Nice to see that you wore your best boots and pants for the video.

Paul.

 

[Lesgsy]

Thanks
Sage it took a while to get the water pump working it seems to of just been an air lock in the top of the pump and as soon as the bleed shrew was in and let the water into the top of the pump it was off
Thanks
Paul when I get the rad Finnished I'll get a good vidio done in good dress,
I've been waiting for it to stop raining for over a week and my son to be home to do the vidio !
It hadn't rained for hour or so I grabed him the engine and my (good coat) and asked him to vidio my engine running not my jeans & feet ! But the vidio was ok so I'll let him off .
Thanks for the feedback
Les.

 

[Cogsy]

Awesome! Sounds great and runs well. Congrats.

 

[Lesgsy]

Hi
I've been woarking on the rad the the first attempt didn't go to well the pictures are of my second attempt and it seems to work well,
Next I'm going to try and make a fited permanent electric starter I'll post a vidio of it running soon I hope.

 

[gus]

Did you rough out that block first, then finish machine?, I would be worried about stress movements. You have done an excellent job, I must put it on my "to do" list.

Paul.

Hi Paul,
Lets make a deal. Gus make the Howell V-2 and Paul make the V-4.

No worry. I am still studying the drawings and running around in circles.

 

[dsage]

The rad looks great Les.
How did you blacken the fins?
Yes, making the rad is a bit of a trick. I'm not sure where I saw the tip but I used the solder paste used for surface mount IC's. I got all the joints set up with the paste in and around the joints , cleaned off any excess and clamped the whole thing to a thick aluminum plate. I heated the whole thing, plate and all until the joints flowed and a little sample dot of solder paste on the rad farthest from the heat source flowed ensuring that the rad was all up to temperature. Perfect joints first crack. And as you know there are a lot of joints some inside the rad. All of them done at the same time.
I used that paste all the time now. It's expensive but well worth the results.

Sage

 

[Swifty]

Hi Paul,
Lets make a deal. Gus make the Howell V-2 and Paul make the V-4.

No worry. I am still studying the drawings and running around in circles.

Very tempting Gus, I will get the drawings soon and go over them, will let you know what I decide.

Paul.

 

[Lesgsy]

The rad looks great Les.
How did you blacken the fins?
Yes, making the rad is a bit of a trick. I'm not sure where I saw the tip but I used the solder paste used for surface mount IC's. I got all the joints set up with the paste in and around the joints , cleaned off any excess and clamped the whole thing to a thick aluminum plate. I heated the whole thing, plate and all until the joints flowed and a little sample dot of solder paste on the rad farthest from the heat source flowed ensuring that the rad was all up to temperature. Perfect joints first crack. And as you know there are a lot of joints some inside the rad. All of them done at the same time.
I used that paste all the time now. It's expensive but well worth the results.

Sage

Hi
I ended up not following true to Jerry's rad design,I didn't get on with all the groving of the 8 1/2-1/2 brass bars,
I fitted 10 vertical tubes and 72 x .010 - 1/2" brass strips with 720 aliminium ring spacers between and it works very well the engine doesn't over heat at all even after a good run,
And the paint is black manifold paint
View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1422216928.498781.jpg

 

[gus]

Hi Legsy,

Gus soaking your radiator fab/soldiering tips. Plan to build Howell V-4 next year 2106 basis Gus still alive and V-2 up and running. Paul Swift is now contemplating building the V-4 and Gus will follow .

 

[Lesgsy]

Hi
Looking at Paul's v4 build has pushed me on to get mine finished of
I've made some new manifolds and some small silencers for itView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1441024033.282944.jpg

I didn't want an elevated fuel tank so I
Also made a small reservoir under the air cleaner with a flow and return to a small fuel pump.View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1441024617.458137.jpg

And that's about it finishedView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1441024708.881543.jpg

I've also done a video of it running https://youtu.be/b_SvdlHsdNg

And Paul I think your doing a fantastic job on your v4 and the way you've documented the build with all the photos and .explaining every so well
I'm following the build and enjoying
Thanks
les.

 

[toolznthings]

Thm:Thm: Certainly can be proud of your craftsmanship !! Beautiful !!

 

[dsage]

Hi Les:

Wow. Nice job. And it runs with great authority as well. Beautiful !!
Can you give some details on a few things like:
What ignition system did you use,
What is the belt driving.
What is the strange triangular device on the output.
Is that a clutch of some sort on the output.
Did you implement the small lever from the throttle to advance the timing
What did you use to measure temperature.
And finally what did you use as the fuel pump. BTW Jerry did the same thing on his.

Excellent work.

Sage

 

[Lesgsy]

Hi Sage
I used Jerrys Tim-6 ignition module and a 6v emgo atv motorcycle coil also from Jerry
The belt runs down to an electric motor for starting via a one way bearing but when starting the loading on the end of the crank was a bit Mutch for a built up crank so I put the triangle support with a Bering in the top and seems to work well
The fuel pumps a hand crank petorol for model aircraft with an electric motor and I've geared it down to 200rpm and it pumps at just the right speed
On the bottom of the radiator Jerry shows a tube with two inlets one one outlet to balance the cooling of both sides of the engin so I've put this in the box with a standard electronic car tempretur sensor to it and wired back to the tempretur gadge
I tryed the advancing to the distributor but it didn't help at all in fact it made setting up a bit hit and miss I found it runs a lot better without
I also tryed the crank case breather tubed up to the bottom of the air cleaner but this made the carb almost impossible to setup so I plugged the holes in the bottom of the air cleaner and took the breather down past the fly wheel and out to air
Hope this helps
Les.

 

[dsage]

Thanks for the info Les. All great ideas. I'm not sure if you are aware that I built a V8 version. Here: http://davesage.ca/
You can see it run there but it has since been made to run much better than when I made the video.
I also collaborated on a much better alternative to the TIM-6 module. The latest schematic is in post 175 here: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=20415&page=18 It was also written up in Model Engine Builder magazine recently with circuit board art work files.
If you have any trouble with the TIM-6 I would recommend the new circuit. The TIM-6 has been known to fail and take out the (expensive) coil. Also if the engine happens to stall with the hall sensor activated for any length of time it can also take out the coil. So be sure to shut your ignition off promptly if the engine stalls. The new circuit has protection against all of that and should give you a better spark as well.
I built my engine before the ignition circuit was designed so I'm using a CDI module running on a cell phone battery. Everything is below the engine between the frame rails.

I found the engine does run better if you apply a bit of advance once it's running - which I do by hand. Alternately you can apply about 10deg of static advance to help a bit. But, as you found, I'm not sure having it directly connected by a linkage applies the correct advance curve so it may not run best at some rpms. I think Jerry has detailed a bell crank with various holes in the drawings for fine tuning the curve. I too have it disconnected. Perhaps there is a bit of playing around to do there with the ratio of throttle vs distributor movement.

Have you ever seen anything coming out of the crankcase breather? I made the fancy breather cap but I never made the air filter cover so it has never been connected and I've never seen anything come out of it. It may be one of those things that is just there for looks. Something like the dip stick which is cool but useless.

Nice work
Thanks

Sage

 

[Lesgsy]

Hi Sage
I've tried a couple of times to watch your v8 vidio but can't on my iPad I'll have to borrow a friends laptop or something to view it,
The dip stick I ground down .015 flat and it dose give a true reading if you look very very very close
My breathers piped down to a small tin with an inlet and outlet to air ,this separates any oil before it comes out the bottom of my display box and yes I do get a small amount of oil in the bottom of my tin
I've also would like to have a v8 so I'm thinking of the challenger v8 but can't afford the castings so I'm thinking of building one from billet but with only manual machines it's going to be a bit of a long project,but I really like the engine and I need another project !!

Les.

 

[dsage]

Les:
I seem to remember now you or someone else not being able to play the videos on an Apple product. My wife has a Macbook and she couldn't play them either until she went to the Apple store (because I know noting about Mac's) and they installed a codec for mpg video files on her computer. This solved it. What really clinched it for her was that she couldn't play any videos that people sent as attachments in emails. Apparently this is an "Apple thing" because mpg files are more often Microsoft native file and heaven forbid Apple support anything to do with Windows. So they don't install a player codec by default. I would encourage you to investigate the mpg codec for your machine. THere are probably lots of other things you are missing out on.
In the mean time can you try these two videos from my website. One is an AVI which should be more Apple friendly. The other is a wmv file which is a Microsoft invention as well. I would be interested to know which (if any) will play for you.

click on the "Click here to watch it Run" below the title. It loads slowly. Be patient
http://davesage.ca/henry fords first.html

And also try this one and select the "watch the animation" in the left panel.
http://davesage.ca/offset crank.html

Thanks

Sage