My new sub workshop

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Location
Crewe, Cheshire, UK
A few weeks ago, I purchased off eBay a metal 10ft x 8ft shed, as my 20ft x 9ft concrete workshop is overflowing with machinery and tooling, to such an extent, I can hardly find or do anything in there. Everything for this shed is included except for the 1/2" ply floor.

Yesterday, I started to build it up. The instructions say that it can be built by 2 normal people in about 8 hours, it says nothing about a clapped out, one handed old fart all by himself, so I reckon it will take me about 5 full days (weather and body conditions permitting).

So the first thing to be made was the floor support. This is it, tied to the gate that will be being replaced with this shed, showing the back face to the front garden.

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The next part was to assemble the sub frame, this went fairly well as most if it could be done with me sitting on my chair, except for the four corner uprights.

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A new day dawns, with me getting all the side panels, screws and plastic washers sorted so that I could crack on. Half way through the side build, it was still rather flimsy in the slight breeze that was blowing.

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So this is where I decided I have had enough for today, time for some lunch and a good rest.
All the sides have been erected and it has become a lot more stable.

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Because of the weight, this part now needs moving into it's finished position before I can start to assemble the roof.

So tomorrow, I think I will call a few of my mates around to give me a hand.

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John
 
I'm or thinking about something directly similar. Two points arise- well, three!

The first is sweating. Nothing rude, condensation of metal. The second is that I'm a 'lung case' and all of 86 but my ground, recdently cleared of overhanging branches of two huge horse chestnut trees is not level.

The third is 'who' supplied the thing, please?

Not bothered about the cost.

And don't do anything to regret working alone

Norman
 
I'm or thinking about something directly similar. Two points arise- well, three!

The first is sweating. Nothing rude, condensation

Norman,
The best approach is to line with wood studding, the same depth as the supporting ribs or a bit thicker, insulate between the studding and then ply line.
I used Celotex only with no ply for the roof insulation, not only does this stop condensation but it stays cooler on warm days and requires remarkably little heating on the coldest of days,

- Nick
 
Nick
Thank you for your valued comments. I'm going back a long way with bitter experiences of corrugated iron. Again, I recall drops of moisture coming from my daughter's clear plastic roof 'lights' in her kitchen. Incidentally, she has underfloor heating and double glazing.

Mind you this is the Frozen North( of Leeds):confused:

Cheers

Norman
 
Norman,
Heating and double glazing usually results in a warm humid house atmosphere which will find any cold points and condense.
In an insulated shed it's ideal to use a dehumidifier on a timer switch, all it's energy consumption is emitted as heat making it an ideal low level heat source with the advantage of reducing atmospheric moisture at the same time. The issue with minimum functional temperature for dehumidifiers has never been an issue in my insulated shed, it doesn't get that cold,
Regards,
Nick
 
Norman,
Heating and double glazing usually results in a warm humid house atmosphere which will find any cold points and condense.
In an insulated shed it's ideal to use a dehumidifier on a timer switch, all it's energy consumption is emitted as heat making it an ideal low level heat source with the advantage of reducing atmospheric moisture at the same time. The issue with minimum functional temperature for dehumidifiers has never been an issue in my insulated shed, it doesn't get that cold,
Regards,
Nick

If the space is a cold one, then a dessicant dehumidifier may work better that a condensing coil type. I have used one successfully in my shop for the last two (fairly mild) winters. The only problem I have had is that the external drain pipe does not fit very securely onto the water tank.
 
If the space is a cold one, then a dessicant dehumidifier may work better that a condensing coil type. I have used one successfully in my shop for the last two (fairly mild) winters. The only problem I have had is that the external drain pipe does not fit very securely onto the water tank.

Charles,
If insulated and boarded out these sheds don't get cold easily and the heat output from a dehumidifier will actually warm them up significantly, better to insulate sufficiently as even with all appliances off for a frosty week the interior of mine never hit the dew point ;-)

- Nick
 
I don't remember the numbers any more but it's just amazing how much R value foam board has! It doesn't take much to do a great job. 2" foam board will handle almost all needs for a small shop.

Pete
 
I personally am not worried one iota about condensation.
As visitors to my shop will testify, I have had a load of new machinery stored under an open sided lean to against my house that is open to the elements on three sides. Not one bit of corrosion on them at all, some of them have been under there for about four years with no heating.
The secret is fresh air. Keep the place well ventilated and dry inside and no harm should come to them. This shed has a full ventilation system along the ridge, plus the constant wind through the gap by my house should keep things very dry, with no heating being used. Unlike my sealed and insulated workshop which is kept at a constant temperature above 55 degs F during the winter months by use of an oil filled radiator. If that wasn't used, my machinery would be covered in rust in no time, DAMHIK.
Sorry for being so long keeping you updated on the build. After I had finished the four walls, I had a relapse and had to spend a few days on my stomach while things healed a little.
For the last two days, I have been assembling the roof, and should be ready to be fitted tomorrow or the day after.

John
 
An update with my thanks to all contributions.

Well, for two winters, I have 'lost the roof' of my workshop which lives in a windtunnel along the side of my bungalow. Last winter, I also lost the coping tiles on the roof peak. All of this is laughingly under trees which are protected by the Council - being listed. They are large, past their sell by date( tell me about it as well) and two, dead/dying huge chestnut and an equally large sycamore had to come down.

It all prompts me to move part of my workshop into the bungalow because I am now sole occupant and really rattling about in it.

Two cars have gone to my children and if the insurance people have their way, the last one is ready to be traded in for an old people's bus pass. So the garage is more or less free

Cheers- well, sort of

Norman
 
Thanks Pete, only now just mobile again, but have to be very careful as I am away on another driving holiday in a few weeks, this time to Bavaria, so I am taking no chances. If it is too strenuous for me, I will call in outside help.
Notice the chair, ten minutes on, twenty minutes off.

So this is the roofing frame built up. It looks like an easy assembly job, but actually it isn't, as I found out with the walls. The destructions tell you to fit screws into certain places to hold things together, but on further assembly they have to be removed to join something else onto it, with bits falling around you, then is the time you wish you had three hands . They have done the same with this frame, once it is on top of the walls, I have to remove a dozen screws so that they can be fitted through the walls and into this frame.

DSCF6190_zpssmsyf2cy.jpg


I was going to sheet it up on the ground, but I reckon it will be much too heavy for both of us to lift up, so when my mate calls again, we will get it on top of the walls, fiddle about getting it screwed up, then my friend can leave me to put the roof sheets on.

So I now have to wait until I get help.

Norman,
A good friend of mine lost his last parent a few years ago, so rather than being outside in a damp and cold garage, he is converting his spare bungalow bedroom into a workshop. He says he has no family ties now, so he is going to enjoy what he has left.

I am a little luckier than yourself, I am supported by the services agency (armed forces), and they pay for me to have a new motability car every three years so that I am still mobile, the only thing that costs me is the fuel, everything else comes free of charge, including great insurance, which covers me for all over the EU as long as my head isn't about to fall off. They automatically cover me for all sorts of disabilities as long as I am still capable of driving, and if things get worse, they will even modify the car with gizmos so I can continue driving as long as possible. At this time, getting in and out of it is the main bugbear, but once in, I could easily drive 500 miles, which I did daily on my last trip to Bulgaria..

John
 
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I feel assured to know that the powers that be are 'looking after you'. I'm still RAFA, 31 Sqd'n Asoc'n and such so we do try to help, Ghurkhas included. My other 'outfit' is gathering a lot of money towards London's second air ambulance. Again, we more Northern lot are into air ambulance and various cancers. I suppose that is what surviving implies.

I'm having to miss Bavaria this year. Missus used to play clarinet with her mates to support the local church on the hill. Nothing to do with model engineering. Hope that you have a great time, too. Lots of slap and tickle?

Meantime
Cheers

Norman
 
Had my friend Terry come over this morning to get the roof structure fitted.
We first had to drag the walls out onto the driveway and lift the structure into position. This was one job that was impossible for me to carry out by myself.

Within the hour, the structure was fully screwed into position, and my, did it make everything more rigid, it is solid now, and when I eventually get the sheeting on, it will be going nowhere.

So then it was a matter of chipping away some concrete curbing to get the shed perfect into position and it fitted absolutely perfectly in the area I wanted it in. There are no gaps for my little dog to get past and escape into the front garden, where he pesters people walking past the front gates to stroke him, barking like mad if they don't, typical Jack Russell behaviour.

This is how it looks from my front hard standing. I have just had new super gates fitted to the front, so I had to try it out with the car in position while still being able to swing the gates behind it. Perfect!!!

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This is the view from the rear, please excuse the waste bins, they will be moved to a different area when all my other stuff is moved into this workshop.

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Now 'JUST' got to get the roof sheets on, fit the vents and trims plus the doors, and fit the internal LED lighting (solar powered), then I can get measured up correctly and get the floor cut to size.
My friend Terry wanted to carry on, but I just couldn't, and besides, I need to go to see my lady friend, that is much more important than fiddling about with some tin shed.
So I am hoping that sometime next week, those jobs will be finished and I can start to fill it up with all my overspill.


John
 
are u ngto insulate between the floor members before fitting the floor ?
Polystyrene sheets maybe and a plastic membrane .I did something similar years ago,but made the shed to an exact size to fit between the house and the fence.Like the post please continue wit fitting it out etc
 
Baz,

I will be using no insulation at all, and in fact, rainwater will be able to flow underneath the floor but still drain away with all the other water (slight slope).

There is a reason for it, everything that will be stored in here has already been stored outside, but under direct cover, without any ill effects at all, and I have found that as long as there is a free flow of air through the shed, corrosion shouldn't set in.
I am worried that if I start to introduce insulation, it might upset that balance.
Ask me again in another year and I will be able to tell you whether my way has worked or not.

Thanks for the question BTW.

John
 
Sorry I haven't replied before Baz, usual problems, having to lay on my stomach for a few days..

I do understand about the underside of the floor, and I have three ways I can go about it as far as I can do it, my brainpower can only come up with so many.

The first is to buy a very expensive waterproof treated one, it has a layer like plastic on both surfaces and the ply is resin treated all the way through. It is used mainly for trailer floors - Already discounted because of the cost and getting it cut to the right size in time. This shed HAS to be finished within the next two weeks.

The second would be to treat the underside with a rubber cement, similar to underseal you use on car chassis, and I have used this method before to great effect when rebuilding my bathroom about 10 years ago. It was taken up again when my bathroom was converted to a wetroom a few years ago, and nothing had penetrated at all, but it was V-E-R-Y messy to apply and it took many days to dry enough to be handled - still considering, but time constraints are against it.

The third and last one is to stick, using contact adhesive a polythene sheet to the underside of the floor, like you have done. I have never tried this, but in theory, it should work well - still considering.

If you can think of any other method, I would be most grateful and would consider it fully.

There are many ways to skin a feline.

BTW Baz, where the shed is situated, it has like a small wind tunnel effect between two houses, it blows in there for about 3/4 of the year, and the first place to dry out is just there, so I am hoping that this effect will be the same as I am storing the machinery now, which is in the same area. I have even considered a small wind turbine in the space because of the constant blowing.

John
 
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How tall is that shed John ?
Is it just for storage or working in ?
 

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