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- Aug 22, 2007
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The purpose of this build write up is to help any beginners who would like to build this engine and are new to the hobby as I am.
I am sure that the pros would have done a lot of the steps much better than I did and I hope they chime in and offer tips for the next builder. I did it the way I did because I knew of no other way and it has been a learning experience for me.
The build has been enjoyable and it ran the first time I put air to it. This engine is not complicated, tedious maybe, but several areas gave me fits. I will try to cover them as I go along so others dont have the same problems. I chose this engine because I liked the looks and the mixture of wood and metal. This is my second build of one of Elmers engines. I started this engine over a year ago and it got put on the back shelf while I built a new shop and got moved into it. SAM in LA started the fire going again after I saw his build. I also used a few of his building tips. Thanks Sam.
All of the wood pieces were made from left over hardwood oak flooring. I did take several strips to a buddy of mines shop to plane down to the required thickness. Most all of the cuts were made on a 4 Dremel table saw with a carbide blade. I also used a 6 disk sander to make some of the angles.
I found a brass 6 pipe flange at a local scrap yard that I used for all but a few of the pieces. The only brass I had to purchase was the cylinder and valve body tubing. Most all of the bolts were made from brazing/welding rods and bike spokes. I had a stash of 2-56 and 4-40 stainless hex head bolts left over from airplane modeling projects.
Wood parts assembled
Flywheel pieces cut and trial fit
Center layer of flywheel assembly. Great care must be made to get all joints as tight as possible. You almost have to hand sand and fit each piece. I did go back and groove the center section for weights.
I attempted to make the brass bent links several times using wire benders, but never could get 2 alike. I then fabricated a jig similar to the one SAM used and got usable ones every time.
Link jig
Metal parts finished awaiting assembly.
Wood parts awaiting assembly
As the build progressed I soon realized that even though the holes drilled in wood parts no matter how much care I took just would not line up for a slip fit of bolts. I found that I had to drill all of the wood holes at least 2 or 3 drill sizes over.
Valve body: I put it off as long as possible because of the difficulty soldering other people have reported. I did not use the aluminium pins as Elmer suggested. Instead I tied the assembly in place using some soft wire. I had some silver solder left over from a plumbing project but could NOT get it to flow the way I liked. I made two assemblies so I figured I would try regular solder on one. I rested the engine on a piece of wood and used a pencil torch I got at Radio Shack several years ago. It actually went pretty smooth after I got everything hot enough. Excess solder was scraped and filed off and the joints look good and most important HELD!!
Assembly started with the crankshaft and flywheel mount. I found that as I tightned the bolts down it began to bind. I tried shimming in several places to no avail. I then mounted the base in the mill and used a new bit to square up the mounting surface. (it was out quite a bit). Crank rotated very freely after that.
Truing base using mill
I then moved on to the A frame and top pieces.
I did not care for the valve beam pivot pin just sitting in wood so I sleeved it with a piece of brass. The L shaped inner support for the pivot was very difficult to align for drilling. You have to drill from the bottom so where ever you marked it on top had to be transferred to the bottom. The first set of holes was waaay off so I had to plug the holes and start over. Second try was spot on.
Next problem was the 2 top beam supports were about 1/8 too short. I doubled checked my measurements and they were all within 1/32. The piston rod guide pin was all of the way back into the cross piece. I cut another set 1/8 longer and the rod centered OK. I had already drilled the mounting holes for the guide per the plans but they were off about 3/32. I again plugged the holes and held the guide in place with a spring clamp until there was no binding. I then marked and drilled the new holes.
From this point on assembly was pretty straight forward. I spent some time adjusting the piston rod to keep it from hitting the top and bottom head. There is only ½ turn between it hitting and not. I have adjusted the beam pivots as much as possible so I may make a new crank and cut down on the throw a little.
Below are some pictures from different angles. I would have loved to have seen some like this when I was building. Sometimes the plans just dont show the whole picture!!!
Yes I know the tool marks of the cylinder base and top look bad but I had no more material to do them over. They came from a new 4-jaw chuck which has since been cleaned up to prevent that.
Now if someone could tell me how to keep the brass shiney I would appreciate it!!! I used Simichrome an it shines like gold when I finish. Come out the next morning and it has already started to tarnish. I really dont want to spray clear over everything.
I had wanted to make square nuts and washers for at least the larger bolts but broke my only 3-48 tap. That will be a rainy day project.
I will post a video on Youtube as soon as I figure out how.
Thanks,Julian
I am sure that the pros would have done a lot of the steps much better than I did and I hope they chime in and offer tips for the next builder. I did it the way I did because I knew of no other way and it has been a learning experience for me.
The build has been enjoyable and it ran the first time I put air to it. This engine is not complicated, tedious maybe, but several areas gave me fits. I will try to cover them as I go along so others dont have the same problems. I chose this engine because I liked the looks and the mixture of wood and metal. This is my second build of one of Elmers engines. I started this engine over a year ago and it got put on the back shelf while I built a new shop and got moved into it. SAM in LA started the fire going again after I saw his build. I also used a few of his building tips. Thanks Sam.
All of the wood pieces were made from left over hardwood oak flooring. I did take several strips to a buddy of mines shop to plane down to the required thickness. Most all of the cuts were made on a 4 Dremel table saw with a carbide blade. I also used a 6 disk sander to make some of the angles.
I found a brass 6 pipe flange at a local scrap yard that I used for all but a few of the pieces. The only brass I had to purchase was the cylinder and valve body tubing. Most all of the bolts were made from brazing/welding rods and bike spokes. I had a stash of 2-56 and 4-40 stainless hex head bolts left over from airplane modeling projects.
Wood parts assembled
Flywheel pieces cut and trial fit
Center layer of flywheel assembly. Great care must be made to get all joints as tight as possible. You almost have to hand sand and fit each piece. I did go back and groove the center section for weights.
I attempted to make the brass bent links several times using wire benders, but never could get 2 alike. I then fabricated a jig similar to the one SAM used and got usable ones every time.
Link jig
Metal parts finished awaiting assembly.
Wood parts awaiting assembly
As the build progressed I soon realized that even though the holes drilled in wood parts no matter how much care I took just would not line up for a slip fit of bolts. I found that I had to drill all of the wood holes at least 2 or 3 drill sizes over.
Valve body: I put it off as long as possible because of the difficulty soldering other people have reported. I did not use the aluminium pins as Elmer suggested. Instead I tied the assembly in place using some soft wire. I had some silver solder left over from a plumbing project but could NOT get it to flow the way I liked. I made two assemblies so I figured I would try regular solder on one. I rested the engine on a piece of wood and used a pencil torch I got at Radio Shack several years ago. It actually went pretty smooth after I got everything hot enough. Excess solder was scraped and filed off and the joints look good and most important HELD!!
Assembly started with the crankshaft and flywheel mount. I found that as I tightned the bolts down it began to bind. I tried shimming in several places to no avail. I then mounted the base in the mill and used a new bit to square up the mounting surface. (it was out quite a bit). Crank rotated very freely after that.
Truing base using mill
I then moved on to the A frame and top pieces.
I did not care for the valve beam pivot pin just sitting in wood so I sleeved it with a piece of brass. The L shaped inner support for the pivot was very difficult to align for drilling. You have to drill from the bottom so where ever you marked it on top had to be transferred to the bottom. The first set of holes was waaay off so I had to plug the holes and start over. Second try was spot on.
Next problem was the 2 top beam supports were about 1/8 too short. I doubled checked my measurements and they were all within 1/32. The piston rod guide pin was all of the way back into the cross piece. I cut another set 1/8 longer and the rod centered OK. I had already drilled the mounting holes for the guide per the plans but they were off about 3/32. I again plugged the holes and held the guide in place with a spring clamp until there was no binding. I then marked and drilled the new holes.
From this point on assembly was pretty straight forward. I spent some time adjusting the piston rod to keep it from hitting the top and bottom head. There is only ½ turn between it hitting and not. I have adjusted the beam pivots as much as possible so I may make a new crank and cut down on the throw a little.
Below are some pictures from different angles. I would have loved to have seen some like this when I was building. Sometimes the plans just dont show the whole picture!!!
Yes I know the tool marks of the cylinder base and top look bad but I had no more material to do them over. They came from a new 4-jaw chuck which has since been cleaned up to prevent that.
Now if someone could tell me how to keep the brass shiney I would appreciate it!!! I used Simichrome an it shines like gold when I finish. Come out the next morning and it has already started to tarnish. I really dont want to spray clear over everything.
I had wanted to make square nuts and washers for at least the larger bolts but broke my only 3-48 tap. That will be a rainy day project.
I will post a video on Youtube as soon as I figure out how.
Thanks,Julian
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