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Cedge

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Okay... I admit it... I'm a gadget junkie. I like tools whether I make them or buy them. Here are a few recent additions to my always growing arsenal.

First one comes with a huge thank you to Marv Klotz for the original idea. He long ago posted a link to his little manual radius jig and I had to have one. The first version was a quick throw together to get a specific job done, but it didn't take but one use to get hooked on this handy little tool. I kept thinking that I'd revisit the thing and make one that was a bit more permanent, but just never seemed get the "round tuit" with that project written on it.

As I said, version one was a working tool, but it was never meant to be a long term item. I pushed it a wee bit more than it could handle and it finally gave up the ghost while I was experimenting with a part I'll soon need. So, I decided to stop and build one that would last and fit my personal work style.

I'd never been comfortable with the work stops on mine ,so I took a bit of time to rethink how I use the tool and what would make it fit my needs a bit more closely. I spotted a piece of round aluminum in my stock pile and an idea began to form. Instead of the square table I'd copied from Marv, I decided to use the round and integrate the stops into the design to allow 360° positioning. Here is what I came up with.

radius-table.jpg


The removable center post is 3/16" brass in order to avoid the galling that I experienced using drill rod on the first version. Larger diameters can still be used by cutting a bushing with a 3/16 center hole. The small clamp is a drill stop, from Harbor freight, with flats milled on the sides to allow close in work with an end mill. It stops the tendency for the end mill to lift the part while cutting, but still allows for easy rotation of the work piece.

The bed stops are made to squeeze to the edge flange and can be positioned at any required angle by loosening the clamping screw. They will play a large role in making the side support arms for my current water engine project. Thanks again Marv.. you're generous ingenuity is definitely making my life easier.

The next item is one I'd be lost without. Everytime I used to need the wrenches that came with a machine I spent a bit of time looking for where I laid them down last time I used them. Yeah... I often get absorbed and before long every tool is on the work bench... somewhere.

I picked up a pack of Neodymium magnets (rare earth type) at Northern tool, mostly as an impulse purchase. I had no idea what I'd do with them at that moment, but I wanted to play with them, so I spent the $4.00 for 6 of them. Those six magnets soon grew from 6 to 12 to 24 to somewhere above 30 today. I use them everywhere...LOL. The best use so far is for keeping the above mentioned tools handy and in easy sight. As you can see below, I've finally beaten them at their hiding game.

magnets.jpg


They even make keeping up with the small dowel pin stops for my indexing jig easy to keep up with. They now reside with easy reach right above the work space. Grab a few newt time you see them by the checkout counter.... you'll love them for holding that wayward chuck key.

This next tool is one i bought last week at Harbor freight for $29.00 and some change. I bought it more out of curiosity than any real need. Now I'm wondering wher eit has been all my life...LOL. It is a Digital Angle finder. That sounds like an absurd idea until you see it measuring in hundreths of a degree. It has a calibrate mode that lets you zero it on a surface and then it retains that zero setting until reset. I can place it on the mill vise (the base is magnetic) and zero it.... then I can rotate it and move it to my mill's quill where it shows 0.0° (90.00°) variance. (Hey Tim... I trammed out that pesky that .20° we saw) That is a much closer look at the mill's tram situation than I can get using my DTI or my tram tool and .001 shim stock... and it's fast and easy.

Setting work up on an angle just got tremendously easier as well. The one negative I've found is that it can't read an angle on its back, but for vertical set up it is an extra right hand. Definitely a keeper around this shop.


Table angle

angle-a.jpg



Quill angle (hold button activated)
angle-b.jpg


This tool also measures in % of grade mode, making it handy for off road safety as well.

These are some of the new tools that are making life easier here in my garage. I thought I'd share them with you.

Steve
 
Steve,

Well, if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, I'm really flattered. Very nice job.
Yours looks as if it was designed and machined, as opposed to mine which looks more like it was bodged out of available junk, which it was.

On the matter of the part lifting on the pivot pin... I'm still looking for a small (say 1/8 or 3/16") left-hand cutting end mill. That would have the effect of forcing the part down against the table.

Is your pivot pin removable? If you want to round over something with a hole smaller than 3/16", a removable pin would allow you to turn a smaller pivot on the end of a 3/16" rod and stick it in the existing 3/16" hole.

I like the idea of a circular table. In fact, this makes it easy to actually measure the angle of the arc you're rounding, unlike mine where everything is eyeballed.

Anyway, fine job. I love it when people take one of my ideas and run with it, improve it, etc.

Have you measured the sensitivity of the angle finder yet? 0.01 deg is about 0.002" in 12". Stick a feeler gage under a 12" rule and see if the thing can detect the change.

 
Marv
The center pin is removable. The lower rod section is 1/2 inch diameter and is held in place with a "brake shoe" that has a 1/2" radius cut into it. The screw shown on the lower block pushes a rod against the shoe to lock the pivot in position, but it can also be raised and lowered if needed. I hadn't thought of the left hand mill idea, but that would be a treat to use.

I'm still experimenting with the angle finder and will give your suggestion a try.

Thanks for the compliments...
Steve
 
Steve and Marv,

Rather than going the left handed route.

I am still playing about with router bits.

Cheap and cheerful, but only really for use on non ferrous articles and fairly fine feeds, so if super fast is not your forte, you might like to try these. No up or down forces.

I have had some good results, and these can be bought for a few $'s if bought as a set.

Might be worth a try.

You will get more than your outlay back, if you use the bearings in your engines.

BTW Steve, I have a fixed head on my miller, and if I tram it, it shows about 1 to 2 thou over nine inches along the x-x axis. I actually use this to my advantage. I always do my finishing cuts from right to left, so the trailing edge of the cutter is removing less than 1 tenth, but it leaves a much better finish, and when using a flycutter, it just skims less than a thou off the trailing edge and leaves a mirror finish. So sometimes it pays to have the tram out a bit, and as far as I know, this has been there since manufacture, but I have never bothered to square up the column because the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages.

John

routerbits.JPG
 
I've had one of the Wixey angle gauges for over a year now, originally bought for setting my table saw blade. One thing it is handy for is quick indexing in the lathe, stick it to a chuck jaw and just rotate the spindle to the correct angle, saves setting up a rotary table or dividing head for basic placing marks at various angles.

Also very easy for setting up work at an angle in the milling vice, like the 18degrees for the dovetail on this bearing cap

Jason
 
Jason
I'd already gorkked the advantage for the mill set ups, but the quick indexing rotation on the lathe is a sweet idea.... one now safely filed in my cranium. Thanks.

John...
I have not done a flycut since the tram so I'll watch how it reacts. It was certainly doing yeoman's duty when it was .2° out. If the finish degrades, I'll put her back at the slight offset and try to recapture the nice finishes I've been seeing. I really, really do like this new mill...LOL

Steve
 
Nice collection of goodies for us, thank you!

I keep thinking about over-engineering a rounding fixture. I'm imagining one that has the following features:

- A dovetail that lets you move your workpiece relative to the axis of rotation.

- A decent-sized rotating hub for smooth motion and good support.

- A set of pins that drop into a hole in the arm so you can have various sizes.

- Some manner of integral finger clamp or other arrangement to hold the piece to the arm.

For a cutter I like abrasives on this kind of operation better than an endmill, so no issue with pulling up or down. Chances are high I'll never even get started on that one!

But Cedge, yours is by far the nicest rounding fixture I've yet seen!

Looking at all these interesting fixtures (I include the finger plates), I keep thinking of the CNC-style fixture plates with dowels and threaded holes instead of T-slots and somehow making the fixturing modular. Some of Marv's fixturing seems to work in concert, like his little indexing table for example. I'll have to ponder it some more.

Cheers,

BW
 
Steve
What size magnets are you using ............ there's load's about but I would think the tiny ones (6mm) would struggle with some of your stuff ........ ???

Dave ;)
 
Bob
I incorporated many of your ideas into the manual indexing table that I built some time back. I even made multiple top plates so that I could vary the functionality quite drastically, as the need arose. You can see the indexer being used in the "flying saucer" post I made last night. The cylinder for the water engine is mounted on it by way of an expanding mandrel so that I could machine various spots at 90° intervals.

my-rt-4.jpg


This one has proven to be a highly versatile piece of tooling and "almost" takes the place of the rounding tool. I'll have to do a tear down photo shoot of both tools so everyone can see how they work. I would recommend it to anyone who wants to do patterns drilling or needs and accurate means to locate other specific points with reference to each other.

Jason...
The size I use is the 12 mm magnets. Trust me, they are quite strong... blood blister making strong if you get careless with your fingers. Even under heavy work loads, where there is vibration, none of the tools have escaped as of yet. The only drawback is some light transfer of magnetism to the tool. Nothing heavy, but a bit annoying where errant steel chips are concerned. You'll notice, I do not have my calipers or micrometer hanging up there.

John
I was dubious about using the router bits until just recently. I tried them and feel pretty confident using them now. I'm not stressing them heavily, just to be on the safe side. The rounding table lends itself well to dremel tools as well.... meaning rotary files, sanding drums, polishing tips, diamond bits and even a bit of edge grooving with the tiny dremel saw blades. You just can't get carried away and ask too much of it or it could bite the hand that feeds it...(grin)

Steve
 
Over on the Motor Boys site they had a conrod rounding-off jig that used the end of the end-mill-- basically clamp a pin sticking horizontally out of the side of the vice, then pop the conrod over the pin so it's vertical, lower the end mill down to the end of the conrod and waggle the other end of the conrod back and forth. Saves the up/down troubles, but is limited in useable sizes (and doesn't leave nice rounded inside corners without more jiggery-pokery.

 
Cedge, that's a nifty indexer.

I've got one of those little digital protractors, but I swear mine is only good to 0.1 not 0.01 degrees. I've got to go back and look at that.

When you have all these goodies that work together, it's fun to suddenly see 2 or 3 of them in action making a job a lot easier. It makes me think the little digital protractor would benefit from some attachments. Perhaps clamps or other ways of holding it in place while an angle is being dialed in. With angles, a clever guy (someone like Marv I bet) would be doing all those things we did in geometry where the two angles match with parallel lines and so on.

Cheers!

BW
 
BobWarfield said:
I've got one of those little digital protractors, but I swear mine is only good to 0.1 not 0.01 degrees.

That's why I asked him to check it. 0.01 degrees is a *tiny* angle. While it may have that much resolution (resolution is cheap), I can't believe anything that tiny is accurate to that level.
 
Marv
Look closely and you'll see the decimal point is only measuring in 1/10° I haven't seen it go to the 1/100° place yet. I'll give it a bit of attention tonight and see who it does. If it went down to the 1/1000°, I'd have had it bronzed and framed...LOL

Bob...
I love my indexers. That one and the one on the lathe are as handy as the dickens.

Steve
 
In your original post you said,

"That sounds like an absurd idea until you see it measuring in hundreths (sic) of a degree. "

so I assumed that it had a resolution of 0.01 deg.

While it may display angles to two decimal places, I find it difficult to believe that it's accurate to 0.01 deg.
 
Steve,re- the magnets,do they not affect your digital height gauge and other electronics on the mill?.I would have thought there'd be some transfer of magnetism to the actual casing of the head.Or am I worrying needlessly? ???
regards.Hans.
 
Hans
There is a LOT of metal there to magnetize as nohting is insulated on the machine. It would have to magnetize the whole thing for it to be noticeable. The magnets don't seem to have any effect on the DRO at all. It's not flinched in a pinch, other than the annoying tendency for scale freeze. The ones close to the DRO are very small ones that were salvaged from the new light... probably in the 6-8mm range and quite thin. Perfect for keeping the indexing pins handy, but too light for the larger tools.

If it's of concern, then I'd advise not going with them. The organization factor simply makes it worth it here...(grin)

Marv...
Sorry for the confusion... those pesky voices sometimes play tricks on my fingers...LOL


Steve
 
I picked up one of the angle gauges today. It'll detect a 1/16" drill bit stuck under the end of a 16" level, but not a whole lot better than that.. only the tenths digit changes.. the hundredths digit seems to only be used for the % mode.

oh yeah.. ran across a couple photos of profiling con-rods, old school:





RodSide.JPG


RodEnd.JPG
 
Aha! Now we see where Cedge got his design in that bottom photo.

Cheers,

BW
 
shred said:
I picked up one of the angle gauges today. It'll detect a 1/16" drill bit stuck under the end of a 16" level, but not a whole lot better than that.. only the tenths digit changes.. the hundredths digit seems to only be used for the % mode.

arcsin(1/256) = 0.224 deg. Yes, that's much more in line with what I expected the sensitivity to be.
 
Hi,

I have just bought a Sherline 24" lathe with a lot of accessories.
Using it over the weekend i discovered that i am lacking a vital piece of equipment, A MILL! Try drilling a straight hole through a 20 mm piston with an electric hand drill!!!

Looking for suggestions for a small mill that will not break the bank, if that is possible!
Hopefully available in Canada, would help a lot!
Have seen the Craftex from www.busybeetools.ca
Any insight on the one they sell??

Also looking into just getting the vertical milling column for the Sherline lathe.
Save some money that way, but removing the headstock all the time may be a pain...

Saw a Proxxon mini mill, but that is way too mini...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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