ML4 allignment

[dontgetoutenough]

hi folks
consider this a first post from an absolute newbie....

its an old lathe i know, and i thought the main bushings were away, however after a few hours today
the bushes are perfect 'in my newbie eyes' as they adjust by bolt clamps, the standard x-y is fine and the auto feed is fine
im trying to figure out the best way to allign the very topmost slide on the lathe so it cuts true and have tried
measuring at points to make similar,, but so very unsure of where to measure from so my cuts are true as on small cuts its ideal to use this top slide

 

[New_Guy]

have you adjusted the gibs?

 

[Deanofid]

Hello, somebody;

Is there some problem with using the carriage? If you're talking about making cuts on stock moving the tool toward the head stock, the normal way to do it is with the carriage. If cutting a face, use the cross slide.
The top slide is usually reserved for short tapers and some threading setups. Getting it to run parallel to the spindle axis can be a real trial. Use the carriage. That's its purpose.

Dean

 

[dontgetoutenough]

thanks
its imposible to use the carrige by hand as the movement is too fast using the lower wheel, 1no rotation moves the carrige +-2inches

i was practicing cutting close to the chuck and darent touch the feed lever

time to practice

 

[grunty]

thanks
its imposible to use the carrige by hand as the movement is too fast using the lower wheel, 1no rotation moves the carrige +-2inches

i was practicing cutting close to the chuck and darent touch the feed lever

time to practice

being another newbie I had have the same problem
the main carriage is fast moving so lots of care is needed, I have started using the feeds for most jobs, but never turn your back
The top slide on mine has degree markings but I wouldn't trust them much on a 40 plus years old lathe and especialy reading them with 40 plus years old eyes
Practise, now thats a familiar word ;D
I go to the lathe and turn down stuff even if it's not really necessary just so I can get a bit more time in, same on the mill, currently making a steel box to house some switch gear and I have milled the surface just because i can

 

[lordedmond]

have you fitted a hand wheel on the end of the lead screw ?

if you have then drop off the change gear banjo , engage the feed lever and turn the lead screw by hand that will give you the control you require




Stuart

 

[Blogwitch]

I gave a warning about this the other day.

These early Myfords do have a nasty habit of having the saddle being fed into the chuck, all due to the non instinctive control of the saddle handwheel.

I fixed mine by machining up a block of metal to form like a cowl over a pair of gears plus where I could reposition the handle.This not only reduced the very fast travel, but reversed the operation of the handle so it became instinctive in action.

The C-o-C at the bottom shows a rough layout. As far as I can remember, I think the gears had something like a 3 to 1 reduction, this is not critical, almost anything will do, as long as it gives a reduction.

Bogs

 

[dontgetoutenough]

thanks for the reply's, i think a hand wheel would be perfect, thats what im missing then..

ive been cutting alluminium practicing and now there's none left!!!!!!

that drawing is ace but a bit out of my remit for the time, i will work towards that one

time to buy some stock