Metric Taper Adapter Sleeve

[BillTodd]

Good to see you're making progress.

Rather than use a boring bar (which always seem to want to squeak at the most inappropriate time), is there anyway you could rig a shorter tool up-side down in a heavy tool-post? (e.g. a nice sharp HSS bit)

BTW I find it's better to have the gibs sliding nicely rather than too tight.

Bill

 

[Royal Viking]

I finished it last weekend. Sorry I have not posted any progress pictures on the adapter. The chatter was due to the tool. I got it right after a couple attempts. One problem was having the proper angles ground. The other thing I learned was if the tool was not on center it would result in chatter and the taper would not be the proper angle. Anytime the tool began to chatter I would sharpen the tool. I have learned is when to sharpen the tool before it begins to chatter.

I'll post progress pictures later this morning.

 

[Royal Viking]

The first two pictures are from my work to establish the inner taper angle. When I finally got everything right the work was too short to be used for the adapter. I renamed the scrap "gauge" to make me feel better.

 

[Royal Viking]

Rather than cutting off a piece of stock and possibly creating more scrap "gauges" I decided use the stock full length. I was a bit leary of the size at first. My cuts were not going to be to heavy as the belt is due for replacement and slips easily.

Once I finished the bore I cut it off. That was a bit tricky. I had to regrind the cut off tool as someone had decided that the sides had to have relief ground into it and caused alot of chatter. I did turn the outside diameter although it was not necessary.

 

[Royal Viking]

Once I had finished the inner taper I needed to make an arbor to hold the part while I turned the outside taper. The photo shows the arbor with the taper turned to match the adapter.

 

[Royal Viking]

I had to re-create the outer taper of the adapter. This taper must match the ID of the clutch. I used some stock to find the angle and then checked it with the clutch.

 

[Royal Viking]

Once I had determined the outer taper of the adapter I put the adapter onto the arbor and turned the outer taper. I had to check several times as not only is the taper critical the depth of the adapter is also. I used a mic to get the rough cuts made. At one point I thought I blew past the OD and after a slight finish cut I found that it was almost dead on. I had to remove the bolt to check the fit with the clutch. It all came together quite well. ;D

 

[Royal Viking]

Now that I had the taper adapter completed I had to remove it from the arbor. I placed two straight pieces of metal along the sides, with the bolt loosened I gave it a rap with a small hammer and the adapter came free of the arbor.

The finished adapter.

In case you were wondering. I have several chucks that I used. I kept the arbor in the same chuck so that I did not have to set it up again (between finding the angle of the outer taper and turning the outer taper on the arbor).

I found that during several conversations about how I was making this adapter people were suggesting machine shops that would make this for me. I have no idea what I would have been charged to have this made. I knew I could do it and actually was bothered that in one instance a man insisted that I give up and take it to a shop.

 

[BillTodd]

Nice work RV


Don't forget to show us a picture of the CVT mounted on the crank