making a thread dial for a south bend 10K - cutting the gear

[ttrikalin]

And this is how the almost final product looks.

I may have to paint the dial and the mark on the holder for visibility...

Test fit on the 10K...

and another view...

So tomorrow I'll see if I can find a spring washer to do the mounting as per john's (Bogs') suggestion. It may mean that I should put a (V?) groove on the steel round pin that goes into the casting also...

I still have to reduce a tad the length of the gear teeth, make a housing for the gear, and then lock it in place with blue loctite (as per Marv)

Any suggestions on painting the engravings? I'll paint, let it set, and then scratch the paint off of the face (but not from the engravings) with some fine grit sandpaper... any suggestions on colors? :big:

take care,
Tom in MA

 

[Maryak]

Tom,

Nice mod to your lathe :bow:

Best Regards
Bob

 

[Blogwitch]

Tom,

Looking at you assembly now, I don't think that the spring system I suggested will work, as your drop in dial is fixed to the saddle in a different way to the norm.

I got around my metric drop in dial zeroing problem, which has three gears to use, depending what thread you are cutting, by making a moveable zero point.

If you go to this topic, the first post shows you my three gear mod (which you don't need, but someone might), the post below it shows the resettable dial I made to get around lining up the zero point. A little bit further down will take you to the post where I actually made it.

http://www.atfreeforum.com/chesteruk/viewtopic.php?t=383&mforum=chesteruk

If you are lucky, the zero mark you have made should stay in line, if it doesn't, maybe a very thin packing shim will do it.


John

 

[steamer]

That looks great Tom. I take it there is a set screw in the hole there?

Dave

 

[ttrikalin]

John,

I can still use your proposal I think. The dial swings in and out enough to mesh the gear and disengage it to >0.250" distance. I am now thinking I could cut a groove on the steel pin that goes into the apron, right where the set screw will meet the steel pin; tip the top of the set screw with brass or delrin (or use a brass or derlin shoe); and tighten it enough so that it can stay put. A spring washer would still be useable there - but I may be wrong...

Dave, yes, there is a tapped hole for a set screw (1/4-20) right above the hex nut in the last photo.

Bob, thank you for the encouragment -- bowing back to ya Sir. :bow:

take care,
tom in MA

 

[steamer]

John,

I can still use your proposal I think. The dial swings in and out enough to mesh the gear and disengage it to >0.250" distance. I am now thinking I could cut a groove on the steel pin that goes into the apron, right where the set screw will meet the steel pin; tip the top of the set screw with brass or delrin (or use a brass or derlin shoe); and tighten it enough so that it can stay put. A spring washer would still be useable there - but I may be wrong...

Dave, yes, there is a tapped hole for a set screw (1/4-20) right above the hex nut in the last photo.

Bob, thank you for the encouragment -- bowing back to ya Sir. :bow:

take care,
tom in MA




Hi Tom,

You may want to put a small groove in that shaft for the set screw to bear on. Reducing the diameter will let a bur be raised without it getting gaulled up in the bore......or put in a brass plug for the screw to bear against.

Dave

 

[ttrikalin]

Hi Tom,

You may want to put a small groove in that shaft for the set screw to bear on. Reducing the diameter will let a bur be raised without it getting gaulled up in the bore......or put in a brass plug for the screw to bear against.

Dave

Yep, that's the way to go.

I see the paint is still tacky, eh?

t

 

[steamer]

it won't be after I strip it off........ :redface2: :rant:

;D *beer*

Happy Fourth everyone!

 

[ttrikalin]

This is the almost complete assembly. You can see the housing, and the brass-tipped set-screw. I will use this 0.5" long screw for now, but will change to a shorter one when I get a chance.

Another view showing the opening in the housing though which the gear will mesh with the leadscrew.

take care,
tom in MA

 

[steamer]

Looks Great Tom!

Are you going to paint the graduations?

Dave

 

[gbritnell]

Tom,
You might try this to color your engravings.
http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=L51123
gbritnell

 

[steamer]

Nice Site George I've bookmarked it.

Dave

 

[GailInNM]

Here is a thread on using Lacquer-Stik. It comes in lots of colors and is made for filling engravings. Cures hard and permanent.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3362.0
Gail in NM

 

[steamer]

Nice Thread Gail!

Gotta get me some....

Dave

 

[ttrikalin]

Tom,
You might try this to color your engravings.
http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=L51123
gbritnell

excellent -- I also saw Gail's thread.
I ordered a red, a white and a black.

thanks for the pointer,

take care,
tom in MA.