LONGBOY'S "SUPER TEE" MODEL GAS ENGINE.

[Longboy]

Getting hard to create new engine designs or layouts, something you haven't seen before. Maybe you've seen something like this! I can't find it on the Internet. Maybe this engine is something I can call my own then. So how bout a multi cylinder inline engine.....with a right angle crankshaft. I got the preliminary drawing right here.

The Super Tee's story starting this week!

 

[Longboy]

The frame is made up from aluminum angle. .250 in. 2x3 and 3x4 with a floor piece joining the bottom verticals. I may shorten the horizontal on the short piece depending on what I need to put on its top...... like distributor, fuel tank and such.

6-32 SS socket heads hold it together.

 

[Longboy]

The vertical on the 3x4 angle gets a set of brass bearing carriers. A pair of R18ZZ bearings in each one.

After the boring, fastened on with some 4-40 SS screws. You see here that the center bearing is about a quarter inch lower. The engineering explanation is........is.........well I dunno! Looked
like the right thing to do at the time I guess.

 

[ZebDog]

I will be following this build. I have watched several of your engines run on youtube they all look and sound great

 

[Longboy]

All "geared" to proceed after the predetermined spacing of the bearing carriers in the previous post, I start with crank webs of 12L14 steel. These Traxxas spur gears will be piggy backed to the webs.

These Nylon gears strong and durable for R/C cars with high torque motors will suit the needs of SUPER TEE for starter drive input, possible spark advance kickback and usual low RPM running.

 

[Longboy]

Three con rods were made from aluminum stock with a single R166ZZ bearing in the big end.

Doing something different with the small end. Drilled for a 1/8 in. piano wire pin direct into rod. Has worked well on the big end on a couple engines now. The rotating crank webs should sling enough oil under the pistons for lubing the pin. If not, then I retro fit some R144ZZ's in place.

And I already muffed up .....one of the rods needs to be .250in. longer for the center cylinder.
( "pay attention Longboy"!) So now I got spare parts early in the project!

 

[stanstocker]

This looks like a really interesting build, nicely off the beaten track. Interesting use of modern off the shelf bearings and gears as well. Please keep posting, I've got questions but they would be jumping the gun. No doubt "All shall be revealed in the fullness of time"

 

[a41capt]

This looks really different. Watching with great interest!

 

[Longboy]

SUPER TEE was conceived as a twin originally. After finding the spur gears, the bore centerline spread allowed space for a third cylinder head over the crankshaft web and not crowd out the cylinder heads with a one inch bore, thin wall liner.

Boring the deck, diameter plus of the DOM cylinder liners.

Boring the radiators for their DOM cylinder liners.

 

[Longboy]

I prefer the crank webs to this style of weight reduction for the primary balance of the piston/rod assembly over pie shape cutouts adjacent to the throw pin. On SUPER TEE, the webs will be out front and prominent in rotational view.

With the max diameter bore thru, SUPER TEE is still short on its' testosterone and the piston/ rod hangs straight down.

Shortening the piston shirt and removing metal from the beam helped some......but I needed more weight bias in the web. That solution begins here!

 

[Longboy]

An extra counterweight on the back side of the spur gear brings the assembly into primary balance. Splitting a steel disk in half and go from there.

Needed about a quarter round for the job. All fasteners on moving assembles......blue Loctited.

With the piston/ rod free spin in the bearing carrier now, balanced to my satisfaction in all clock positions. Test fitted to frame here with cylinder.

 

[Longboy]

The radiators with 1 inch bore liners on the deck.

2.25 in. diameter aluminum rounds become cylinder heads.

They need a shave job to sit upon the radiators.

To the mill to give them a butt fit over the cylinders then.

And looking good!

 

[GreggA]

Cant get my head wrapped around this design....Where are you going with this?
Love it1
I'll be watching....Nice work1

 

[Longboy]

Thanks GreggA....I luv it! The mystery of SUPER TEE's layout is preserved. Most likely, when I get to the cam drive next weekend, you will see the arrangement. In the mean time......can a distributor drive a camshaft?

 

[LorenOtto]

Can't wait to see it.

 

[GreggA]

Interesting question !
I suppose, I mean, maybe, why not?
Oh heck.....I dunno.

 

[Johno1958]

Lookin.....lookin........thinkin. I have a guess on some of it but grasping at straws .
The story will unfold.
Cheers
John

 

[Longboy]

Six valve blocks where made, int. and ex. mounted to the side of the heads in a cross flow porting scheme.

3/4 x 5/16 in. aluminum bar sandwich a brass valve guide. Blue painters tape between the pieces as a gasket. Some 3/16 in. brass tubing with an O-ring seal tap into the combustion chamber when drawn up by a pair of #4-40 screws.

 

[GreggA]

your just not going fast enough.....driving me the heck crazy.
Nice work though!

 

[Longboy]

The intake valve bocks are reversed, valve upright for clearance of accessories and components found under the intake manifold. CM-6 spark plugs direct, upright center in the heads. #4-40 socket screws below the surface of heads thread into the radiators with my usual O-ring head gasket.

The valve springs are purchased for the ex valves . Intake springs for atmospheric valves hand wrapped around a arbor shaft slow turned on lathe from some K&S .015 piano wire. Brass spring retainers are threaded onto the valves stems, 6-32 thread.

Time for some fork legs as the cylinders mounted tip the frame over now.