Lathe Slotting Attachment

[RobWilson]

Hi all i am building a slotting attachment for my myford lathe, tonight i managed a couple of hours in the workshop and milled up the body casting,i first cleaned up the casting and levelled it up on the surface plate so i could mark out some reference lines to aide setting up on the mill.then using a surface gauge the casting was setup level in the vise and the bottom milled to the line .
then all other faces were milled up

View attachment Slotting Tool 1.bmp

 

[RobWilson]

More Photos

 

[Kermit]

You make it look so easy...

(heavy sigh)


The Triple Initial Branding Is Too Cool As Well!! 8) Thanks for sharing it all with us Rob.

Kermit

 

[steamer]

Hey Rob,

Nice looking attachment! I really like you casting. Did you cast that yourself?

Dave

 

[RobWilson]

Thanks Kermit,
Hi Dave , i did cast it myself,it was supposed to be in cast iron , but i am having some issues with iron at the moment ??? bronze will have to do.
Well i managed to grab an hour in the workshop tonight and finish up marking out the casting, drill and spot faced one off the hold down holes, drill and tap for the rear anchor fixing.

 

[steamer]

Hi Rob,

I built one myself for my QCTP ...works well, but the ram could stand to be heavier/stiffer

Would recommend 7/8" ram over 3/4" and you'll get about twice the beam stiffness.

I'll bore mine out and make a new ram when the roundtuit I ordered shows up........ ;D


Dave

 

[RobWilson]

Hi Dave , you read my mined , i am making the ram from 3/4" silver steel (drill rod) as i had a bit lying about, hope i get some time tomorrow to bore the casting for the ram
Cheers Rob

 

[steamer]

I built my lever per the old article. It leaves something to be desired.

I will be interested in what you build ........

Dave

 

[RobWilson]

Dave, I still have not decided on the lever yet, do you have the same article from model engineers workshop?
Rob

 

[RobWilson]

May be something like this?

 

[steamer]

Yup that's it.

It's OK, but really needs smooth hardened washers between the plates of the link.....and bolts with locknuts.

My bolts were 3/8".

Otherwise between the wear on the face of the links and loose bolts, your for ever messing with it and it lets the ram turn, which if it happens in use can mess up the keyway.

They sell thin needle thrust bearin washers farely cheaply...I'll probably retrofit my unit with some of those.



Dave


PS The comfy handle is a good idea too as it can get somewhat uncomfortable otherwise.....especially on large keys...

 

[RobWilson]

Hi Dave , great looking attachment, good point about ram rotation , when i was modeling the tool i became aware of the rotation problem, yes the as drawn lever is OK but something more comfortable would be better.
Rob

 

[PhillyVa]

A convex not concave handle would a little more comfortable...I think...just a thought :

Regards

Philly

 

[RobWilson]

Hi Philly, you could be right, i am still kicking ideas about for the handle
Rob

 

[putputman]

Rob, I have been following your furnace build and casting posts and am very impressed with your work. Your castings look great. Would love to be able to do that but I think I'm too old to start a new hobby.

I have a question: What is a "slotting attachment" and how does it work. I'm guessing it is for cutting keyways but I have never seen one or even heard of one.

 

[RobWilson]

Well i managed a bit more work on the casting tonight, The casting was set up on the rotary table and the front fixing slot milled . to give 20 degrees ether side of center, handy for tapered keyways. Then off to the lathe set up parallel to the lathe axis and drilled using the tail stock to push the casting, next a quick rough bore bettween centers, tomorrow i will finish the bore to size.
Here is a photo of my boring bar cutter setting tool (from Model Engineers Workshop), by using a DTI the cutter can be set allot more accurately, as it is hard to get the micromiter type exactly radially aligned with the cutter , Even a small error is doubled in the cut.the cutter can be removed and sharpend and replaced exactly back in the same position and its very easy to see the amount of cut you wish to apply.
Rob

 

[RobWilson]

Rob, I have been following your furnace build and casting posts and am very impressed with your work. Your castings look great. Would love to be able to do that but I think I'm too old to start a new hobby.

I have a question: What is a "slotting attachment" and how does it work. I'm guessing it is for cutting keyways but I have never seen one or even heard of one.

Hi putputman Thanks for the comments,your never to old and its not as hard as it looks,you don't need anything flash to do ally casting.
Your correct it can be used for keyways,splines and internal gears etc ,the ram has a tool bit mounted in it and the lever is worked back and fourth and feed is applied by the cross slide,i am not the best at descriptions , will do photos of tool in action.
Regards Rob

 

[Metal Mickey]

Rob I made my own tool setting tool based on the MEW article and added the plans to the downloads section of this site. I know its not relevant to you since you have your version but it may give others who are considering such a tool another version.

The link is http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4384.msg45897#msg45897/url] Mike

 

[RobWilson]

Finish bored the casting for the ram,the ram has to be a good slide fit with no shake. then i added a camfer to the front end of the casting with a small boring head,Next i made a start on the lever,starting with a length of 30mm SS bar i did some free hand turning to form the handle end.
Rob

 

[RobWilson]

Finished the lever this afternoon,after tuning the Handle end the lever was setup on the mill and milled to 3/4x3/8,the end was radius and two holes drilled and reamed,then a quick polish of the handle