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benjames

Ben James
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Hello everyone,

I am a newbie who is currently deciding between two lathe and am asking for some advice on the features of the lathes in question.

I am looking here:
http://chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Clarke_Lathes.html
My choice is between the CL250M and the CL300M. I have sent a request for info to the company but have heard nothing so am trying to find out myself.

On the CL250 page the photo of the lathe shows a horizontal slide in the picture but shows a separate horizontal slide in the accessories section that looks very slightly different. If getting that lathe would it be a good investment paying the extra money for the other slide? I am not really sure what the difference between them is.

On the CL300 page it lists some features, some of which I am struggling to understand. They are:

Compound mitre slide - What is this. Google search comes up with compound mitre saw?

Tailstock centre mt2 - I have the option of purchasing an extra package that includes a dead MT3 centre and a live MT2 centre. What is he difference between MT2 & MT3?

Thread cutting indicator. Note an imperial thread cutting indicator is fitted onto the leadscrew. - What is a thread cutting indicator?

Thanks for any answers.

Ben
 
Ben,
I'm not familiar with the Clarke brand of lathes, but there are several branded lathes of the same size and capabilities in the States. Comparing these two lathes, the CL300 lathe is about twice the weight of the CL250, has a larger hole through the spindle and at 80 pounds difference in price I think you'll be better served by the larger lathe. The CL250 falls into the category of "micro" lathe here and while it may be all the lathe you'll ever need, the common advice is "go for the largest machine that fits your requirements for size and budget". You would be able to make any part on the CL300 that you could on the CL250, but the opposite is not true.

Hopefully, someone will chime in on the Clarke accessories you're asking about

Cheers,
Phil
 
Thanks Phil.

I was leaning towards the CL300 anyway, bigger motor and more space between centres. Thanks for your response. :)
 
Rule of thumb:

Buy the biggest lathe your hobby budget allows.
The smallest lathes come with challenges that can be frustrating,
but they are better than no lathe at all! :cool:

Rick
 
Hi Rick,

Yeah I thought buying bigger would be better! ;)

I just have no idea what those features are . . .
 
Ok Ben, Mt stands for morse taper, one of the standard tooling tapers, and 3 is bigger than 2. The compound slide is the upper one and used for taper turning. Dave
 
The compound slide can be set at an angle so when you advance the tool it goes in at an angle. For example if you want to cut a cone on the end of a shaft you set the compound at the desired angle, lock the carriage ( the part that moves from end to end) lock the cross slide, and then move the tool only with the compound. There are probably some youtube videos that illustrate this.

Morse taper 2 MT2 is smaller that MT3. On my lathe the tailstock uses MT2 and the headstock uses MT3. The morse taper is self locking. When you bang it into place it locks and won't usually won't turn.

The threading indicator is used when cutting threads and indicates when to close the clasp nuts. There are numbers on the dial and depending upon the tpi of the thread you close on various numbers. Threads that are a multiple of the leadscrew can be cut without a threading indicator. For example mine has an 8 tpi leadscrew so I can cut 8, 16, 24, 32 ... Tpi threads by clsong the clasp nuts at any time. Of course you have to have your gear train set up for the correct thread. An allternative way is to stop the lathe at the end of the thread, run in reverse until the tool reaches the start of the thread, advance the tool in a bit more, run forward, repeat as necessary. All this without opening the clasp nuts. Often for a 60 degree V thread the compound is set at 29degrees and then the compound is used to advance the tool. Again look on youtube.
 
Oh, and a thread cutting indicator is used to monitor where you are on the lead screw for cutting (usually) multi start threads. Useful, but don't worry about how it works right now :)
 
Have a look at "www.lathes.co.uk"

Opening "Lathe guides" at top on the right hand side of the home page gives name and pictures of lathe parts.

The makers information lists are worth a look for the interest alone.
Happy swarfmaking
Ken
 
On a personal note for lathe selection, I'd go for a cared for older machine than a new one, as you're likely (from my experience anyway) to get substantially better quality and rigidity for your money. Just as an example I picked up a Hardinge Cataract lathe for £80 not far from where you are now.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. Those features are certainly worth having now I understand what they do!

I ordered my lathe so it should come late next week and I can start work on my elmers wobbler after setting up the machine. I have received the metal that I ordered already so almost ready to go!!

Thanks again everyone.

Ben
:D
 
Looks like your decision is made congratulations on the purchase.

If you have not already done so I suggest you download a PDF format manual for the new machine read through it and familiarize yourself with the setup procedures and run in procedures.
That way you can be prepared when the machine arrives and not be frustrated reading the manual as the lathe sits on the floor.
Tin
 
If you have not already done so I suggest you download a PDF format manual for the new machine read through it and familiarize yourself with the setup procedures and run in procedures.
That way you can be prepared when the machine arrives and not be frustrated reading the manual as the lathe sits on the floor.
Tin

Good idea Tin, thanks, just downloaded it.

Ben.
Thm:
 
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