Laminar Flow Needs CPR

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carbide_burner

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So I finally assembled it... All the organs that (should) make a Laminar flow engine tic are there. First of all, thanks for advice in a previous topic that one shouldn't mount the engine permanently or finish everything off before running the engine... because it won't run...

I'm still a long way off before giving up, but I guess asking for some advice wouldn't hurt.
Here are the vitals:
Bore 24mm: (aluminium)
Piston: (graphite)
Stroke: 25mm
Glass Tube: 25x150 with stainless steel pot scrubber occupying 3/4 of the length
Choke: 6mm x 9mm long
Heat source: Tea candle (enough heat from a small candle?)

The engine has disappointingly NO signs of life. I hope someone out there can shed some light on the subject.

Thanks
CB
 
You have my sympathy. Mine is currently sitting on the end of the bench. It has a mind of its own and runs when it wants to. I am currently working on an engine that, at the minimum, there is some reasonable engineering theory on how it works.
 
CB,

Where did you get your specs from? Is there a running engine that uses them - the choke etc..?

Some of the things that you may want to check:

1. friction - the less you have, the better
2. binding - everything should move smoothly
3. testtube seal - got a good air tight seal between the tube and the cylinder?
4. your heat source - may not be enough heat

Mind you, I am no expert in Lamina flow engines.

Eric
 
brass machine: Using specs takes all the fun out of building engines. First you try and make an engine that runs, and then you try to make one that runs better.
 
Frustrating little devils they are indeed.

Initially, mine didn't run either. I replaced the alcohol lamp with one of the small cans of Sterno and that got it going. After a run-in period I was able to go back and use the alcohol lamp.

Give the flywheel a good "flick" when trying to start it. You need to mechanically create the first gas compression to get the cycle started. Turning it over smoothly may not, because of minute leaks, build up enough initial pressure to get things moving.
 
Stan said:
brass machine: Using specs takes all the fun out of building engines. First you try and make an engine that runs, and then you try to make one that runs better.

Hey Stan

You are right for the most part imho. I feel though with a Lamina engine it is a lot harder to start with a blank sheet as so much doesn't work. It is probably easier to start with something that is know to work and expand from there. If this was any other kind of engine I would agree with 100%. BUT than again if you are up for a challenge then you are 100% right.

I am not 100% what his skill level is, so I was throwing some things out.

ofc, these are just my thoughts.

Eric
 
Being symmetrical, these engines can run in either direction. Nevertheless, you may find that your engine has a preferred direction.

I neglected to mention that mine needs a bit of warmup of the regenerator as well. Try using your alcohol lamp (or whatever) to directly heat the regenerator just a bit before attempting to turn it over. If you have a metal diaphragm to establish the essential internal diameter reduction, you may need to preheat that too.

When it gets close to running it may, upon being briskly turned over, "pop back" and turn the flywheel in the opposite direction. If so, you're close. Be patient and keep trying - they are tempermental beasties.
 
I need all the help I can get on lamina engines. Here are my current questions on the regenerator:
1 - What grade of steel wool is best 0000 - 4?
2 - Should it be loose or packed in the tube?
3 - Is stainless steel wool better than regular steel wool?

My experiments with the material at hand 00 and 1 regular steel wool gave the best results with the 00 packed in the tube. Anybody got suggestions or theories?
 
Thanks for the advice ??? I'm going to remake a few parts to incorporate some form of adjustment in the design, i.e. the stroke, compression ratio and the choke size.

Cheers
C.B.
 

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