Kiwi Mk2 Engine

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Nice job, Vince!

I think you'll be fine with the spark plug. Just be sure it's not out so far the piston hits it. :D
 
Carved up one of the head flanges. I could have left it as is and avoid all the work but something deep down inside convinced me to do it.

First, using the brass template I marked out the head flange (photo 1). Clamped the head in the vice and started milling to the marks (photo 2).

Photo 3 and 4 are showing the flange finished. Now to do the other one.

DSCF0559.JPG


DSCF0558.JPG


DSCF0560.JPG


DSCF0561.JPG
 
Vince,
Letting out that flange is a little extra step that will make that engine a true beauty. Glad you listened to the deep down voices.

--Tim
 
Thanks Jan and Tim

It took the whole morning to do it but as you said it was worth it. The other one should take less time to do. Also the other one has the casting defect that I am trying to avoid looking at.

Vince
 


Doing a fine job on this. Keep up the good work. :bow: :bow:

Ron
 
Yesterday finished the other head flange. It took less than half the time to do the first one.

I think all machining of the head is complete and today after work decided to do a general clean up of the head especially between the fins. These castings are coated with a light grey paint so I thought how about using a paint remover. I tried a small area first and it seemed to be working. So using a small stiff brush I went through all the fins. After a couple of applications of the stripper the paint started coming off with the brush. Washed it under running water and gave it a good clean in the ultrasonic cleaner using water and liquid detergent (photo 2). I think I will use this same method on the crankcase.

I am quiet happy with the result (photo 3). Also the casting defect is less noticeable but still there. I think I am going to leave it as it is, besides, I do not know how to fix it.

Next I will go over the head with fine sand paper to remove the machining marks.

DSCF0562.JPG


DSCF0563.JPG


DSCF0564.JPG
 
Hi Vince,
Very nice work on the head. It's always the extra work on the details that make the difference. In the course of a long term project the extra few hours spent on the details pay off with an outstanding model.
gbritnell
 
What I've been dreading since the beginning of this build happened yesterday.

I got that sinking "OMG I've ruined the casting" feeling.

Yesterday I decided to drill and tap the four mounting holes in the top of the cylinder. I used the cylinder head holes as a template and used the usual homemade transfer punch to mark the top of the cylinder. Drilled the first blind hole 7.5mm deep and started tapping 4mm. Started with the tap in the drill chuck and turning it by hand to get it straight then continued by hand with a tap wrench so that I can feel when I reach the bottom of the hole. All of a sudden the tap felt loose in the hole and that's when I got that dreaded feeling. I must have stripped the thread.

After the shock passed I removed carefully the tap and inspecting the hole with a magnifying glass I could still see the thread. Blood started circulating again. I was using the first taper tap. So I continued tapping using the other two taps. Used a 4mm bolt in the hole and it screwed in nicely. So I guess I might have saved the hole. I did not do anything else after that shock.

Today I continued with the other three holes without a hitch.

Used 4mm threaded rod as the studs. Cut the studs in situ with a dremel cutting disk (photo 1) so that they would be of the same height. Photo 2 is the result after the studs were cut and trimmed.

DSCF0565.JPG


DSCF0566.JPG
 
Nice progress Vince.

Thm: Good to hear the casting's OK after the tapping episode.

Kind regards, Arnold
 
You can say that again Brian.

Thanks Brian, Arnold and Dave. I think I have 5 items remaining to complete the main items of the engine, two valve guides, two valves and a rocker pillar. Then the ignition, carb and lube reservoir.

Vince

 
Started work on the rocker arm pillar.

Used the piece of 3/8" square stock that came with the kit. Centred it in the 4 jaw chuck with a DTI (photo 1) and turned and tapped one end 6mm fine (photo 2). Then with a thin parting tool I faced the shoulder by trial and error till when it was screwed tight in the cylinder head, one face was parallel to the valve guide holes (photo 3). Then I marked the faces were I need to drill the hole for the rocker arm shafts and calculated how high the hole should be from the bottom of the rocker pillar. Marked where the hole should come. Used a 1-2-3 block to do this (photo 4).

DSCF0567.JPG


DSCF0568.JPG


DSCF0569.JPG


DSCF0570.JPG
 
I then drilled and tapped the hole 3mm and just for fun fitted the rocker arm pillar to the head and the rocker arms to the pillar to see how they look. Now to make the pillar pretty and cut it to length.

DSCF0571.JPG
 

Latest posts

Back
Top