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Bogstandard
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Part 1
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Powder keg
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Glad your back Bog:O) Hope you are well.
Brass_Machine
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Woohoo! Bog is back and posting!
Welcome back. I hope you are healing well and are in good spirits. I really like those flywheels. esp in the last picture... the one in the back and on the left. Kinda has an Aztec look to it.
Eric
Welcome back. I hope you are healing well and are in good spirits. I really like those flywheels. esp in the last picture... the one in the back and on the left. Kinda has an Aztec look to it.
Eric
BobWarfield
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Woohoo, back and in full bling mode!
BW
BW
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Bogstandard
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Very sorry to disappoint you gents, but not quite up to it at the moment.
Until I can get myself properly 'blinged'.
I am able to get into the shop, but very sporadically.
So please bear with it, and just look at the piccies for now. I will post as and when I can, but will be rather limited compared to my previous long winded posts.
John
Until I can get myself properly 'blinged'.
I am able to get into the shop, but very sporadically.
So please bear with it, and just look at the piccies for now. I will post as and when I can, but will be rather limited compared to my previous long winded posts.
John
B
Bogstandard
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A few more bits.
Displacer pistons made from building foam (instead of 2mm perspex) and cut down to 2mm thick. Plus displacer bearings from ali bronze.
Power pistons from ali bronze with brass power cylinders.
Modified crankshaft bits. Rather than bent rod, have gone with Jans secondary build with a built up crank. Shown here, 2mm crank rod, crank discs (4 per engine) and modified grub screws to make bearing ends for crankshaft. All to be built up with silver solder.
John
Displacer pistons made from building foam (instead of 2mm perspex) and cut down to 2mm thick. Plus displacer bearings from ali bronze.
Power pistons from ali bronze with brass power cylinders.
Modified crankshaft bits. Rather than bent rod, have gone with Jans secondary build with a built up crank. Shown here, 2mm crank rod, crank discs (4 per engine) and modified grub screws to make bearing ends for crankshaft. All to be built up with silver solder.
John
Brass_Machine
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Still looking good John.
Eric
Eric
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Bogstandard
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Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Heads and tails, ali is a pig to polish and get looking right.
Change from the plans, decided to make tapered columns, couldn't get a very smooth finish, but it will have to do. Just might do a bit of rework before final assembly.
Started a bit of assembly. The hard stuff is next, cranks and conrods. Put a fag lighter in just to show how small these things are.
John
Heads and tails, ali is a pig to polish and get looking right.
Change from the plans, decided to make tapered columns, couldn't get a very smooth finish, but it will have to do. Just might do a bit of rework before final assembly.
Started a bit of assembly. The hard stuff is next, cranks and conrods. Put a fag lighter in just to show how small these things are.
John
Powder keg
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Looking great Bog!!! I'm a fan of Jan's work. I have a couple of his engines planned.
Later, Wes
Later, Wes
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Wes,
Jan's plans are absolutely superb. They are so well though out, and if you keep to the basic dimensions you can change the shape of almost anything to make them a bit more personal.
Anyone considering their first stirling should have a look at his plans, they are the right price as well.
John
Jan's plans are absolutely superb. They are so well though out, and if you keep to the basic dimensions you can change the shape of almost anything to make them a bit more personal.
Anyone considering their first stirling should have a look at his plans, they are the right price as well.
John
B
Bogstandard
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Finished machining at last, these are the last bits to be made, the rest is assembly.
These require a good dose of elbow grease.
I am dreading silver soldering the cranks up, it will be so difficult jigging them up to get the 90 degree separation. Everything is so small.
John
These require a good dose of elbow grease.
I am dreading silver soldering the cranks up, it will be so difficult jigging them up to get the 90 degree separation. Everything is so small.
John
Brass_Machine
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Bogstandard said:Finished machining at last, these are the last bits to be made, the rest is assembly.
These require a good dose of elbow grease.
I am dreading silver soldering the cranks up, it will be so difficult jigging them up to get the 90 degree separation. Everything is so small.
John
Getting anxious to see the finished project John. I am sure you will complete the silver soldering without issue.
Eric
J. Tranter
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Bogstandard can you give me the dimmentions for the crank webs? I want to build the crank like the one you are using.
John
John
chuck foster
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john it amazes me how fast you turn stuff out!!
you are the man :bow:
good to see you back on here.
chuck
you are the man :bow:
good to see you back on here.
chuck
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I have yet to make a sterling engine, it is on my MUST DO list. I want to use a fresnel lense and make the engine run fast on solar power alone.
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Chuck,
It is not that I am exceptionally fast, just that I make, if possible, more than one piece at a time. The crankrods were made by soldering four strips together, and machining as though making one, desolder, and all of a sudden you have made four (I always, if possible make a spare one of everything, just in case).
John,
Here is a not very good sketch, but it shows everything that is needed. I am winging it myself on this bit, and have made the counterbalance into something that looks right and is near enough.
I experimented yesterday with locktighting a crankshaft together, to see if it could stand up to it, I am sorry to say that the slightest bump and it was wobbles all round.
So I have started building mine up with silver solder, here is a pic of the first two, one hasn't been in the citric bath yet.
I hope this helps
John
Just to add, the gap between each disc is 2mm, one set is exactly on centre of the shaft and the other is offset 11mm (centre to centre) one way.
It is not that I am exceptionally fast, just that I make, if possible, more than one piece at a time. The crankrods were made by soldering four strips together, and machining as though making one, desolder, and all of a sudden you have made four (I always, if possible make a spare one of everything, just in case).
John,
Here is a not very good sketch, but it shows everything that is needed. I am winging it myself on this bit, and have made the counterbalance into something that looks right and is near enough.
I experimented yesterday with locktighting a crankshaft together, to see if it could stand up to it, I am sorry to say that the slightest bump and it was wobbles all round.
So I have started building mine up with silver solder, here is a pic of the first two, one hasn't been in the citric bath yet.
I hope this helps
John
Just to add, the gap between each disc is 2mm, one set is exactly on centre of the shaft and the other is offset 11mm (centre to centre) one way.
C
Circlip
Guest
Use a saturated solution of citric acid for copper cleaning as well, safety issues, the drainage authorities in the UK tend to get annoyed if you throw H2SO4 pickle down the drains. The Elfins don't like it either,. Regards Ian.
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Giles,
I just use standard citric acid powder, either from the chemists (very expensive with strange looks - it is used somehow with drug taking) or from a homebrew shop for pennies a ton (not quite, but you know what I mean).
I mix about two tablespoons in half pint of water and keep it in a sealed tupperware container, and is used until the things growing in it start to look dangerous (the brew I am using at the moment is well over a year old), I have actually had fungi in mine at one time that looked like the flowers on top of the open sherry casks, maybe I should have gone into the brewing business, and fungi aren't supposed to like acid, maybe no-one has ever told them.
Just pop your grotty bits in, and they should be safe for days, but an hour or two is usually all that is needed. Then clean off with a bit of fine wire wool or fibreglass brush.
John
I just use standard citric acid powder, either from the chemists (very expensive with strange looks - it is used somehow with drug taking) or from a homebrew shop for pennies a ton (not quite, but you know what I mean).
I mix about two tablespoons in half pint of water and keep it in a sealed tupperware container, and is used until the things growing in it start to look dangerous (the brew I am using at the moment is well over a year old), I have actually had fungi in mine at one time that looked like the flowers on top of the open sherry casks, maybe I should have gone into the brewing business, and fungi aren't supposed to like acid, maybe no-one has ever told them.
Just pop your grotty bits in, and they should be safe for days, but an hour or two is usually all that is needed. Then clean off with a bit of fine wire wool or fibreglass brush.
John
