Howell v-2 four stroke gas engine.

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That's a nice fish alright. I've never eaten grouper, what's it taste like?
 
Holy smokes Gus that fish is almost as big as you! :eek: I think the last time I had grouper was about a 4 oz (113g) piece in a local Indian restaurant. The curry was great but cost me around $30.00. Your fish with a little rice and some peas is worth a small fortune in these parts.

I like the simplicity of your dividing head. I have all my patterns finished for the Whippet now so as soon as I’m done with the pour (hopefully this coming weekend) getting my head around gear cutting is next on my list.

Keep up the good work and the great fish. Thm:


Had earlier plan to DIY a Conventional DH with Indexing Plates but on second thoughts I would have to DIY a range of Indexing Plates and many holes to drill. So why not direct index.
Will be watching your Whippet post. Meanwhile I am in the procrastinating mode. But figuring out how to true up a cheapy mini MIC Chuck which is inconcentric. Using same chuck to mill the timing gears will be disastrous.

This Sunday after fishing will for my Indian Curry FishHead Fix with plenty of Okras and EggPlants. Take care.
 
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After a one month break from the overtax brain. Its true the Howell Engines make 'HMEM'' engine builder work hard and stretch their basic machining skills to the extreme limit and even beyond to pick new skills.
The 2 1/2'' MIC Scroll Chuck had a run out of 8 thou. This is no can do when Hobbing the timing gears. Been toying with so many ways of truing the three jaws to get near 0 thou Concentricity.
Here's how I did it. Took a mini cut and found that the jaws were soft. Truing done in 10 mins after 4 weeks of desperation. With chuck done. Will move on to turn down hobber 16mm shank to 12 mm. Hobber was a gift from my Maestro Paul Swift.

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Doing nothing is tougher than doing something. All lazy bones taken out and about to hob first gear. Never uses a hob before and I am wondering how to align hob and gear blank.

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Exciting times, Gus! It's always a thrill learning something new.
 
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Been working very hard to get some timing gears cut. Was a steep learning curve cutting gears with a 'Hob''.
After ruining half a dozen of gears,some good gears came out. I have another 3 gears to go. Ruined one 32 t gear blank,forgot to reset index arm to 32T from 21T. Was a total wipe-out. Lesson learnt.

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About to finish hobbing all the timing gears. The Howell V-2 is not very a small engine but it has mini timing gears which really stretch your skill and patience. The tail shaft has an integral spur gear which is part of the tiiming gear chain. Same will hobbed tomorrow. Having the hob behind the blank was not a good idea.

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Just when I thought it would the last gear to hob. Wrong. The gear hob packed shop. :rant:
No worry ,I could move up one or two digits to go back to gear hobbing biz. Hob was doing very well cutting brass at 1000 rpm but apparently not with drill steel.Fotos show the worn digits and the bad gear. Tooth height was very much less that the 45 thou.Tooth profile looks spindly like E.T. Fingers!!!:hDe:
Will shift down to 500 rpm and hob with Tapmatic Fluid to minimise gear hob wear.

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Took five gear blanks to make one good 16T Pinion Shaft.:wall: Moved up 2 digits from worn cutting teeth of hob and proceeded to practice hobbing the mini 16T Gear which has its mind and you just can't rush with one pass.:rant: Took two pass with the very last gear blank and at last one good gear came out.:)
Running the hob at 1000 rpm is murder. Took it down to 700 rpm and she cut very well and with dobs of Tapmatic Fluid ti make cutting easier.
Next on the list will be the four cams to cut. This may take another week to get good cams.

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Howell V-2 need its pretty good share of tools and fixtures to make all the miscellaneous mini parts. To machine the cam,you required a Rotary Table,A Boring Head with cutter to cut O.D. RT and BH were DIYed years back. Gus unashamedly copy cap Paul Swift's method and getting good results. One trial cam almost done expect for profiling the low cam side. Did not expect the trial cam to emerge intact. The Japanese mini mill performed well giving a very good lobe finish. Had to buy 5/32 and 7/32 Reamers. Substituting with metric reamers is not advisable. Parts may clash and fitting would be a big problem.

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All four cams done today.Will heat treat tonight. Chilly Red or Dull Red is easier to read at night. All my roughing mills are MIC and by now too dull to cut Drill Steel. Had to invert RT to skim off the semi-round lobe using Carbide End Mill. MIC HSS mill will dull very fast when cutting drill steel. Hand finished with fine cut file and emory paper. Results don't look bad and was the best looking cams I ever made. The DIY Rt stood up very well.

The gear case will be another tough job to get right. Have never put in so many gears into a gear box and they must mesh and run smoothly. This will take another week.;D

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Heat Treatment done. Did a file hardness test. One piece was good. the other three pcs were not as hard. Redo all three and quenched in ice cold water. All three passed.

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All gears done and presented as a family. Howell Engines have endless list of mini parts. Howell V-2 and V-4 not meant for faint hearted engineers to build. From here I move on to installing the gears.Getting them to mesh will be fun.

No worry about gear size compared to print as print done to Twice Actual Size.!!!

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Work on Timing Gear Box delayed.

1. Locker on which Family Altar was placed, collapsed after 37 years. Replacing this S$500 locker will cost me at least S$1,500.After a week of mental planning. Had altar repaired for $54 FOR 2 pcs 20'' x 20'' x 9'' high pedestals and have Locker placed on top and equally good. Time taken was 2 hours with Cordless Screw Driver and CL Drill. Darling Wife,Nellie very pleased. A coat of Lacquer is required to bring back the shine.

2. The diesel fuel line check valve failed and the Albin 28 had to be towed back last Sunday .Was the most expensive 1 hour tow trip to Marina. Boat Tow cost me $400.Peninsular Engines have no parts stockist in Singapore. And had to make a DIY Check Valve which about 10 times the fuel line check valve of Brian Rupnow's H & M check valve. Cost $5.00. 11 mm steel bearing ball f.o.c. Hose barbs $2.00. If I had made check valve 2 weeks ago,could have saved $400 and buy Nellie a Fine Dining Dinner of good U.S./Aussie/Japanese Beef Steak.:rant:

Same valve installed today and all went well. Thanks to Brian Rupnow. All all went well except the fish refused to bite.
One word of caution. ''Never Never lap ball and valve seat. Just press steel on the valve seat with the vice. Very good sealing and no leaks.This check valve will last forever and ever.:cool:

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Taking a good hard look at gear case and how to get the center distance between gears to get good meshing. With gears placed on,I am getting a good feel. Will take a week to do a ''no scrap'' job. I have 7 shallow blind pit holes to machine to locate gear train. Jerry Howell has good info guide to turn these blind holes. Will take my sweet time. Lots of tea/pee breaks to help concentration.;) Will take a week to do a good job.

N.B. Gears were cut with gear hob from Paul Swift. Thanks.Paul .th_wav

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Taking a good hard look at gear case and how to get the center distance between gears to get good meshing. With gears placed on,I am getting a good feel. Will take a week to do a ''no scrap'' job. I have 7 shallow blind pit holes to machine to locate gear train. Jerry Howell has good info guide to turn these blind holes. Will take my sweet time. Lots of tea/pee breaks to help concentration.;) Will take a week to do a good job.

N.B. Gears were cut with gear hob from Paul Swift. Thanks.Paul .th_wav
It's looking great Gus, fantastic job, I've still to learn gear cutting!!!
 

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