Hello from West Virginia

[Lou Miller]

New member to this forum but I have been a Model Engineer since 1976. I recently retired from working 40 years as a Mechanical Engineer in the Electric Generation, Refining and Chemical industries. I use 9 inch South Bend lathes from 1934 and 1952.

I look forward to communicating and sharing ideas. I still machine using non DRO methods, but have recently purchased a 3D printer to see if it can add to my enjoyment of this hobby. Best Regards to all.

Lou Miller, PE

 

[GreenTwin]

Welcome Lou-

Glad to have you.

I bought a 3D printer a few years ago, and am very impressed with what they can offer as far as pattern making.

I am a non-DRO guy, so to speak, but I do use a poor-man's DRO on my lathe, which is a digital vernier caliper attached to the carriage.

Do you have an engine build in mind?


Pat J.

.

 

[minh-thanh]

Hi Lou Miller .
Welcome to the forum !
Glad to have you.

 

[SmithDoor]

New member to this forum but I have been a Model Engineer since 1976. I recently retired from working 40 years as a Mechanical Engineer in the Electric Generation, Refining and Chemical industries. I use 9 inch South Bend lathes from 1934 and 1952.

I look forward to communicating and sharing ideas. I still machine using non DRO methods, but have recently purchased a 3D printer to see if it can add to my enjoyment of this hobby. Best Regards to all.

Lou Miller, PE

Welcome to the group

Dave

 

[Apprentice707]

Welcome Lou

Regards

B

 

[jrslogs52]

Welcome to the forum. I worked as toolmaker and I’m in the process of putting a DRO on 40 year old mill. Nice see someone that does machining old school!

 

[Grey]

Hi All,
I began machining in 2011 on my retirement from farming . I would be very grateful if someone could. advise me how to wire up my Emco Maximat Super 11 lathe .The single phase 220 volt rotary switch has burnt its contacts and it used to ”switch on”then select “ high or low speed” and also select “ forward or reverse”.All this was done with one very expensive switch . I wish to replace the single rotary switch with 3 or 4 separate switches if this is possible ?Could some one please advise me if this is possible ?With thanks Grey Norton ,Southbroom,KZN,Southbroom ,South. Africa

 

[Lou Miller]

Welcome Lou-

Glad to have you.

I bought a 3D printer a few years ago, and am very impressed with what they can offer as far as pattern making.

I am a non-DRO guy, so to speak, but I do use a poor-man's DRO on my lathe, which is a digital vernier caliper attached to the carriage.

Do you have an engine build in mind?


Pat J.

.

Welcome Lou-

Glad to have you.

I bought a 3D printer a few years ago, and am very impressed with what they can offer as far as pattern making.

I am a non-DRO guy, so to speak, but I do use a poor-man's DRO on my lathe, which is a digital vernier caliper attached to the carriage.

Do you have an engine build in mind?


Pat J.

.

I just finished a Stuart 10V. Changed the flywheel over to marine, as I just do not see these very often. The castings were from 1977, and machined like butter. Thanks for the kind words.

 

[Steamchick]

Hi All,
I began machining in 2011 on my retirement from farming . I would be very grateful if someone could. advise me how to wire up my Emco Maximat Super 11 lathe .The single phase 220 volt rotary switch has burnt its contacts and it used to ”switch on”then select “ high or low speed” and also select “ forward or reverse”.All this was done with one very expensive switch . I wish to replace the single rotary switch with 3 or 4 separate switches if this is possible ?Could some one please advise me if this is possible ?With thanks Grey Norton ,Southbroom,KZN,Southbroom ,South. Africa

Hi Grey.
I suggest you do a search on "EMCO" in case there is something already in the forum. Otherwise... I have a different lathe, but with the switch configuration you want. When I get back from holiday, I can send a diagram... but I don't have it on this tablet.
Cheers,
K2

 

[awake]

Welcome, Lou and Grey.

Lou, I too machined for many years without benefit of a DRO on either lathe or mill - with one exception: I cut up a cheap ($10) digital caliper and attached it to the quill of my crappy mill-drill to get a readout on it. Now I have a Bridgeport mill with the most utterly basic DRO ever made on the X & Y, and it sure is nice - it would be an effort to go back to the dials! But on the lathe, I continue to work without a DRO, with no problems. I do use a dial indicator on a mount when I need precise location along the Z axis (moving the carriage). Obviously, given your excellent work on the Stuart, you've got this all sorted!

 

[Lou Miller]

Hi All,
I began machining in 2011 on my retirement from farming . I would be very grateful if someone could. advise me how to wire up my Emco Maximat Super 11 lathe .The single phase 220 volt rotary switch has burnt its contacts and it used to ”switch on”then select “ high or low speed” and also select “ forward or reverse”.All this was done with one very expensive switch . I wish to replace the single rotary switch with 3 or 4 separate switches if this is possible ?Could some one please advise me if this is possible ?With thanks Grey Norton ,Southbroom,KZN,Southbroom ,South. Africa

You may get by with a similar switch that is used on milling machines. Please check out this link: I know that it is very long, but copy and paste into a new browser session. Vendor is asking 25.75 USD.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/3547905166...THTSBAtKhCObCw%3D%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:4429486

 

[Lou Miller]

Welcome, Lou and Grey.

Lou, I too machined for many years without benefit of a DRO on either lathe or mill - with one exception: I cut up a cheap ($10) digital caliper and attached it to the quill of my crappy mill-drill to get a readout on it. Now I have a Bridgeport mill with the most utterly basic DRO ever made on the X & Y, and it sure is nice - it would be an effort to go back to the dials! But on the lathe, I continue to work without a DRO, with no problems. I do use a dial indicator on a mount when I need precise location along the Z axis (moving the carriage). Obviously, given your excellent work on the Stuart, you've got this all sorted!

Thanks for the kind words. I found a non working 10V from 1926 (which came in a pre-machined kit) and went through the engine and found the issue within the valving and head bolts. The valve was not seating and several head bolts were broken off with these glued in place for appearance. I drilled these out and replaced with studs and nuts.

It was a scaled down version of the Stuart 1, and the design was changed in the early 1930's. The fact that it was not running probably caused this to get put away in storage for a few years (generations) - which saved it's life. It does run well for a 97 year old