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Great Effort F-DS engine beat sound healthy also Now make a second using your skills accomplished from this engine. just don't stop. Cheers John.
 
Thank you for your praise. Now I will deal with the modification of the engine accessories to the original historical. Brass tank, original ignition, engine bed ...
 
Congratulations! Are you using 2 stroke motor oil in gasoline/petrol? The recommented oil is 1 part single grade SAE 60 or 70 motor oil mixed in 3 parts gasoline/petrol for running in the engine and keep good compression in long time. 1/4 mix is a bit too little oil in gasoline/petrol.

Counts of octane in the old design of the engine is no problem since the modern gasoline is high of octane than the octane in gasoline in old days was low, about 60-70 octane. Selection of octane is determined by ratio of compression also high compression gas engine need high octane to prevent knocking by misfire caused by self ignition.
 
1 part oil and 3 parts gasoline is a 1/4 ratio. 25% oil, 75% gasoline.
 
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Today I ran again, this time earlier, which caused higher engine speeds. It should slow down the warm-up of the engine, which would prolong its operation, as a result, the engine can run at idle and high speeds for the same length of time, it heats up similarly. After a few starts, which lasted about half a minute each time and each time the engine ran at higher speeds, I looked through the exhaust at the piston and the rings in their condition. Just like that. And on the top ring I saw a small black line that was slanted along the length of the ring. I wondered how such a groove probably formed when the piston made only a rectilinear movement and the only thing that occurred to me was that the ring broke. So I interrupted the next start and thoroughly disassembled the engine. Apart from the fact that the engine is in excellent condition and that almost all components do not show signs of wear, I also found that the ring is really scratched, I do not know how such a groove was created, anyway I just mistaken the engine in gasoline and reassembled. When cleaning, I appreciated the polished piston, which went extremely well with a brush and gasoline. After removing the rear cover, it was clear that the connecting ring of the connecting rod did not move, so there is probably no danger of its spontaneous removal. (I mount it through the gap towards the crankshaft axis)

After disassembling the head, it is clear that the piston and cylinder are very lubricated.

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Well you got there in the end. As with a number of things in life, the first time is the best. You have shown how perseverance can overcome adversity.
Ken
 
Yes, although I really wanted to, I was still not sure if I could build an internal combustion engine in amateur conditions and with a minimum of experience. And surprisingly, I managed to make it.
 
The high voltage coil gave the engine the correct authentic expression, compared to CDI ignition, the engine heats up less. The needle and lead settings remained similar.
 
If you mean a source by this circuit, then the coil is driven by 4 NiMh monocells with a total voltage of 6V. The coil is 3-4V according to the instructions, but it hasn't burned yet, so that's probably not a problem.
 
In addition to batteries, the ignition consists only of an interrupter and a high-voltage coil, both of which I made. In short-purchased are only piston rings, spark plug and of course the ignition supply.

If I bought parts of the ignition, I wouldn't be able to call my ignition "home-made".
 
Production of engine bed. It is fired from 3mm thick iron sheet.
 

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