Does anyone happen to know the model number?

[doc1955]

Here are a few shots of the internal parts.

 

[multihobbyguy]

Thank you for the pictures doc1955. I will have to do some studying of the pictures to figure out what I am missing. From the pictures it looks like quite a bit is missing from mine, but at least I will have a much better idea now when I am looking at the expanded parts view from Sears. Thanks again, Chris.

 

[d-m]

Just some food for thought at work we have a Ellis saw with a hydraulic control valve ellis offers them I they dint offer the price on there web site but I bet you could call there are several different ones you may get lucky and find one with a close stroke and be able to make it work.Click on band saw and at the bottom of the page there is a parts brake down. http://www.ellissaw.com/Band-Saws/2/mitre-band-saw-comparison.
Dave

 

[RICHARDDV]

Does your band saw have any ball or roller bearings in it - if not then the model number is probably 101-02292 made by atlas in 1959 /60 with a 60 inch blade and base size of 23x6 inches. got the information out of old sears tool catalog on the www.owwm .com web site for old manuals and publications --richard

 

[daleshobbie]

I just bought one of these bad boys off Craigslist. I'm a novice with these horizontal metal cutting bandsaws & have a few questions:

Does anyone know what tension should be used when replacing blade? Or how much play (side-to-side movement) should be in blade? Would this be on the blade guide side or the other? How tight or how loose should the blade be in the guides?

Any other helpful tips/suggestions much appreciated. A manual would really be appreciated!

You can email directly to: [email protected]

 

[rklopp]

I have the same saw. Mine uses 1/2" x 60" x 0.025" blades with 14 tpi. I paid $69 for it about 20 years ago from a company surplus sale. I bought new tires and plastic drive gear from Sears shortly thereafter. I never installed the gear, not sure I could find it at this point. I have a love-hate relationship with the saw. I hate when the blade jumps off the wheels. That happens mainly with 6061-T6 aluminum due to metal pickup on the blade. A stick of cutting wax has helped solve that problem. One of these days I'll junk it and get a Horrible Freight or similar 4x6. Back in the good ol' days, the US could make cheezy machines as well as the Asians can now.

I run the blade about as tight as I can get it. The spring under the adjustment knob is fully compressed. I make sure I lightly snug the non-driven wheel clamping nut while tensioning the blade, then tighten it fully. This prevents tilt of the wheel, which could cause the blade to run off. I run the guide rollers in contact with the blade, with practically no clearance. Occasionally a pile of swarf jams between the blade and a roller, which makes the blade jump off. I don't think I could make a straight cut without the rollers contacting the blade. As it is, the cuts are reasonably straight, all things considered.

I've gotten fireworks from the motor when swarf falls into it. It is well positioned to receive a swarf shower.

My saw is on a decent set of legs with wheels. I think it was OEM, but I'm not positive.

The hydraulic downfeed snubber is about the nicest feature on the machine, but the regulating valve is rather all-or-nothing.