Decals/Logo

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Gordon

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Is there any software which would allow making decals or logos which could re scale and print existing images as a decal? I am presently making a 1/8 scale oil pull Rumely and I can find images of the logo but they are all way too big and I do not know of any way to make something which could be placed on the engine. Lacking that is there any commercial outlets which do that type of thing? I can find a source for a 6" decal but that is way too big to put on a 2" surface.

Gordon
 
You can buy decal sheets for an inkjet printer (Water Slide Paper). The kind you soak in water to separate the decal from the paper. I sprayed a clear coat of polly over the decal with no ill effects. I did the artwork with Corel Draw.

Mark T

Clayton-Decal.gif
 
There are a bunch of YouTubes on this too. Many are craft orientated but I suspect similar process. Often seems like they spray a few light coats of clear, allow to dry, then do the water bath. Some then apply clear again, kind of application specific. I'm not sure if the mugs they make are dishwasher proof or how long lasting, but looks encouraging. I've also seem some guys attempt to make insignias like to replace damaged plates on machine restorations. Some successfully & some less so. I'm sure prep, finish & environment has a lot to do with it.
 
I tried to do something with my Silhouette plotter but it was not successful with fine detail. This looks much more promising. I can probably find a graphic image and re scale it to fit.
 
Looks great 👍 .

I have laser printer and then hot iron transfer it black print only.

I am think trying using plating for raised lettering by the laser print and iron transfer

Dave

You can buy decal sheets for an inkjet printer (Water Slide Paper). The kind you soak in water to separate the decal from the paper. I sprayed a clear coat of polly over the decal with no ill effects. I did the artwork with Corel Draw.

Mark T

View attachment 126671
 
There are many differing decal methods - see attached (my other hobby is slotcar racing hence lots of miniature decals).
F1a-Decals.jpg

This is a low-res image.

However clear decals in waterslide or vinyl do not work well on solid colours unless you first paint a white (or other light colour) as a background.

You can print solid backgrounds using a sublimation printer.

You need the correct printing papers - there is a US company Papilio (Disclaimer I have no interest in the company or its products - I have just found them to be very helpful.)

Home papilio.com official website.

They do a wide range of materials and have excellent technical suggestions.

They also do a "magic" waterslide that does not require lacquering. Normal gelatin waterslide paper is not waterproof and the inks tend to run on being wetted - so you have to "waterproof" the print by lacquering - you can also lacquer after application to further secure and protect the decal.

Gelatin waterslide paper is also generally available from print supply shops that support the novelty printing industry for T shirts, Mugs, key-chains etc.

Tip: When laquering inkjet printed waterslide do so flat and make the first coat as light as possible - otherwise you can get colour bleeding - ditto runs if the paper is not horizontal it will make "runs". Make sure that by the second or third coat the surface is completely glazed and waterproof.

As others have suggested you can also design your own artwork on various CAD or graphic packages as well as directly from photos and so on.

Regards, Ken
 

Attachments

  • decals.pdf
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Last edited:
Search for Sure Thing Decal Maker. Years ago I purchased a kit from one of the hobby stores. It was marketed under the bran of “Testors” I believe this is the same software.
 
It sounds like the physical medium may have been the main question, but just in case you are asking about generating the image, I recommend Inkscape - highly capable software. A great source of tutorials is the YouTube channel Logos By Nick.

No affiliation with either - just a satisfied consumer!
 
It looks like I may be able to find some decals at that site which would work. I may still experiment with a DIY solution because next time a premade decal may not be available. Also I have some old projects where it would be nice to add decals.

Thanks all. It is really nice to be able to benefit from the knowledge of so many others on this and other sites.

Gordon
 
I got some waterslide paper and printed some logos. They looked good until I put them on the engine. They are yellow lettering and the engine is dark green. The problem is that they are too transparent. The green color is visible right through the yellow lettering. I am not sure what would happen with different colors.

Gordon
 
My caution in post #7 "However clear decals in waterslide or vinyl do not work well on solid colours unless you first paint a white (or other light colour) as a background."
You do get white background waterslide - but then you must cut them out accurately - alternatively paint a white background before application of decal.
You also get clear and white background printable vinyl. All require careful cutting or painting.
The only way to have the ability to print white on clear is via a sublimation printer.
Regards, Ken
 
Is there any software which would allow making decals or logos which could re scale and print existing images as a decal? I am presently making a 1/8 scale oil pull Rumely and I can find images of the logo but they are all way too big and I do not know of any way to make something which could be placed on the engine. Lacking that is there any commercial outlets which do that type of thing? I can find a source for a 6" decal but that is way too big to put on a 2" surface.

Gordon
You could download Irfanview or Faststone Viever. They are both FREE and will resize images to whatever size you choose.
Jack
 
I did find that it is easy to rescale an image. I can load an image in my cad software and resizing is easy.

I did miss Ken's note about not working on solid background. The images that I used did have a background but the background did not transfer. One image had yellow lettering on a white background and another had yellow lettering on a green background but the background did not transfer.
 
Plus 1 on Irfanview. Easy to use and I have even got it working on Linux. Much more useful than more complex programs. I also use it for cutting off extraneous material to frame up pictures.
 
Used to make decals out of magazine ads. 3 to 4 coats of water resistant wood glue over the image and then soak the paper in warm water to rub the paper from the back. The result was the image sticking to the glue film that could be trimmed and glued to the place you wanted the decal.

I guess this could be done with a laser printed image
 
I have some Clear Adhesive Backed ink jet paper which did not work for a project a while back. I may try that and see how it works.
 
Used to make decals out of magazine ads. 3 to 4 coats of water resistant wood glue over the image and then soak the paper in warm water to rub the paper from the back. The result was the image sticking to the glue film that could be trimmed and glued to the place you wanted the decal.

I guess this could be done with a laser printed image

I used to do something similar; I used spray lacquer instead of glue, and it worked well.
 
Used to make decals out of magazine ads. 3 to 4 coats of water resistant wood glue over the image and then soak the paper in warm water to rub the paper from the back. The result was the image sticking to the glue film that could be trimmed and glued to the place you wanted the decal.

I guess this could be done with a laser printed image
I use my laser printer for making logos etc on my model aircraft. I just print directly onto the covering film. Works well on Solartex, etc.
I have also done printed photographs onto wood.
This is for inkjet printers only.
Print the image reversed horizontally (Irfan press H) onto clear acetate film. Immediately flip the film over and place it onto the wood. Use a squeegee to transfer the ink to the wood. This works best if the wood is sanded very smooth first. Best bit is, 99% of the ink is transferred, so put the film under the cold tap and use it again and again. No Modge Podge or any other liquid is needed.

I made a marquetry picture a while ago and there was a wrought iron gate in the picture, I achieved this by printing directly onto the veneer with my inkjet printer. I printed the gate on A4 paper first, then stuck a small piece of veneer to the paper, over the image, with paper masking tape. Making sure the grain of the veneer is crosswise. Then put the paper and veneer through the printer again. No problems so far.
Try it if you like. Nothing to lose. DON'T try it with a laser printer.
Jack
 

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