Cutting oil ....

[toolznthings]

Hi All,

I found out that the small bottles of Oatey thread cutting oil has sulfur added to it and it works well. Available at Lowes or Home Depot. MSD on their web site.

Brian

 

[goldstar31]

Why not plain simple lard oil? I gave a long discourse on the saponification of fatty acids and esterification of the same. Does any one actually read what is writen here?
One- you can take lard oil to a helluva high heat past the turkish bath thing about water based cutting fluids and way above the synthetic gubbins and that - basically is what YOUR industry progressed on.

Lard oil DID cost more but we are not building battleships, and lard oil doesn't add a lot to one's overdraft in the home workshop.

I only find two faults with it. One is little boys and girls thinking that the Goldstar residence is a Big Mac outlet and wasps thinking it is something to get a kick out of.

And it is nice on my old gnarled fingers because-- they used to make hand cream from it.

I'll get my coat

Norman

 

[SmithDoor]

I use from Home Depot works great wife does not like the smell left on me so I rarely use it.

Dave

Hi All,

I found out that the small bottles of Oatey thread cutting oil has sulfur added to it and it works well. Available at Lowes or Home Depot. MSD on their web site.

Brian

 

[Scott_M]

Hi Brian
I also found it at Home Depot, I only use it for tapping. Works great !

Scott

 

[Wizard69]

Hi Brian
I also found it at Home Depot, I only use it for tapping. Works great !

Scott

I've used that stuff with my bandsaw, works great there too. Especially if you are cutting thick stock.

 

[Tin Falcon]

Why not plain simple lard oil?

The sulpherised cutting oil is great for steel .
and its on the shelf at the local store so why not is what is readily available.

Not saying anything wrong with lard oil either is that is what is available to you.
and we do read your posts. As always all respectful opinions welcome . It is an open forum.

Tin

 

[Jlwright]

I use Tap Magic for tapping and it can be bought at any Ace Hardware store. I keep a small amount in a can with a small brush for general use too. It does not have the strong sulfur smell. Another great cutting oil is Cool Tool. It might be a little harder to come by but I'm sure MSC has it.

 

[Swifty]

Why not plain simple lard oil? I gave a long discourse on the saponification of fatty acids and esterification of the same. Does any one actually read what is writen here?

Norman

You lost me at "saponification and esterification" Norman. I use Rocol cutting oil, I have a 4 litre container of it that will last me the rest of my days.

Paul.

 

[goldstar31]

You lost me at "saponification and esterification" Norman. I use Rocol cutting oil, I have a 4 litre container of it that will last me the rest of my days.

Paul.

Saponification is nothing but changing animal and vegetable oils to soaps and greases.

Esterification is literally changing the animal and vegetable oils into quicker drying oils which are the basis of paints and resins.

Both having been going on- for years.

Cutting oil has a few benefits and the chief one is that they are cheap.
The demerit is that my wife like many other people cannot stand the stink of them. It's a bit like having a friend with a fish and chip shop or works down the sewers.

I used to have a friend who had a car spray shop and when he died the fire brigade had to attend the crematorium- he'd absorbed too much solvent.:hDe:. You don't believe it? Seen the film 'Get Carter'? Well, it was Vic's car that went into the river. The car park was my pension fund- or a bit of it.

Ah well! Across the road was - well, my wife's-----but I digress.

Cheers

Norman

 

[gus]

I use Tap Magic for tapping and it can be bought at any Ace Hardware store. I keep a small amount in a can with a small brush for general use too. It does not have the strong sulfur smell. Another great cutting oil is Cool Tool. It might be a little harder to come by but I'm sure MSC has it.

Hi JL,

I am with you. Been using Tapmatic since day one for tapping and it makes tapping much easier. Used dobs of it on the lathe for better finishing.

Just found a source of ''Lard'' at the nearby food centre. Long before the modern tapping fluid appeared,it was the magic lard oil with local machinists and fitters.Only problem was for some local workers, its forbidden. A mate of mine was happily using it and we had had a hard time deciding to break the bad news.

 

[goldstar31]

Hi JL,

Just found a source of ''Lard'' at the nearby food centre. Long before the modern tapping fluid appeared,it was the magic lard oil with local machinists and fitters.Only problem was for some local workers, its forbidden. A mate of mine was happily using it and we had had a hard time deciding to break the bad news.

Yes, Gus, it can lead to the Indian Mutiny and the Black Hole of Calcutta.

However and whatever, I strongly suspect that 'tapping fluid' contains large quantities of tallow and lard oil. I was looking at some of my assorted lubricants and I really haven't a clue what is in them or on other things how they are made.

What the eye doesn't see, the heart does not grieve about.

However, I've got to about 16GB copying my 'library' which is not leather bound. Leather and especially Moroccan leather comes from a rather interesting process.

Cheers

Norman

 

[gus]

Hi Norman,
You are sharp. Was it really cow-fat or Lard to preserve the gun-powder satchet??We seem to share the History Of India,British Version. I did history for my GCE O Level. Poor India then very un-united and the East India Company came in and practically took over the entire country.

I was in Bombay,India 1979 and walking around the "Gate Way to India" and was wondering why the Indian Government did not tear it down after Independence.

It was true about using Lard Oil for tapping and my poor Expat British Boss had a hard time keeping lid on while looking for a good substitute.Why Lard and not Cow Fat.

 

[goldstar31]

I'm Goldstar which means The Mullet of the Star of India and 31 Squadron Royal Air Force whilst 'Norman' is from the ADC to the Governor( way back).

History- part of my Matriculation and later A levels and lots of other things. The Oriental bit is surprisingly masonic. Lodge and Royal Arch.

What was on those cartridges? Frankly, I don't know but having done 'economics' and economic history and generated a lot of useless paper, I suspect that 'money' came before 'Faith'. So there you have it.
I simply have a lot of friends but it is how they behave to me and how I behave to them that is important.
What they do on various weekdays or Sundays or Saturdays is their business.

I nearly signed off

I Claudius:hDe: who said Let all the poisons in the mud- hatch out!

 

[Jlwright]

This is a little thing I learned a long time ago about finishing in the lathe or mill. Paint the surface with dykem and let it dry. It acts like a dry lubricant. Lets you see exactly what is happening too. Make for a great finish when taking off that last little bit.

 

[goldstar31]

If you follow it through, Dykem is Prussian Blue 'paint'. If you go a step further and go into scraping, one adds a paint like burnt sienna to show up the contrast. It's all in Machine Tool Reconditioning by Connolly.

I use a probably quicker approach when I do my lathe tool honing and I use a black waterprooof felt marker. However, I use things like a dental mirror and a surgeon's pair of binoculars.

But I do agree. Thank you

Norman

 

[goldstar31]

Perhaps a few further thoughts are pertinent. I'd come across my rollers for scraping and tubes of oil paints and a little chamois letter applicator- things unheard of and not understood now.
So I don't really think that your Dykem or Blue or whatever will be dry. What I suspect will exist is a thin smear of lubricant of some sort.

There is, however, a addition to this finishing thing. I hone lathe tools- usually by hand- although I have the facilities of several suitable tools. You should be able to remove a barely perceptical 'dusting' of swarf with a properly honed tool- HSS or carbon. I get a fuzz of steel wool far finer than I can buy- before the final dusting cut to size.

OK, few have the facility to take a part off the lathe say 3 thous up and put it in a cylindrical grinder to finish to size. Getting something near from the lathe is certainly an acheivement

Norman