Cogsy Builds Rupnow Engine

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Thanks Brian. I did read your lapping procedure but somehow skipped over or forgot that you also lapped the piston in as well. Maybe it didn't sink in because I turn the piston either very slightly oversize or onsize to the bore, then polish it down to final size using finer and finer paper until it has a nice shine and is the proper size. Of course this nice finish is quickly ruined by the roughness of the bore, but at least I'm happy it started it's life smooth.

I don't intend to lap the bore any further, just based on past experiences with full-size engines and glazed vs honed bore performance. As you said, I'll have rough rings on a rough bore which hopefully will mean a nice sealing fit once they bed in together.
 
Cogsy--This is just a drop in to say Hi and offer up a word of encouragement. I am currently "breaking new ground" with my CDI ignition that I have purchased. ( I don't believe that my engine requires a CDI to run it, but I have always wanted to try one.) Cheers mate, keep up the good work. I will probably repeat this message to all the others who are building the Rupnow engine.---Brian
 
Cogsy---Any progress to report? I'm checking up on all my co-builders today, and I haven't heard from you for a while. I hope everything is okay.---Brian
 
Brian - I have been very slack with posting updates, but I have made some (slight) progress. This weekend looks good for engine building so I'll make sure I post something soon. Lately it's been a little 3 steps forward, 2 steps back, but a solid couple of days work should improve my completed parts pile.

I now have most of the materials I need, so my only excuse now is lack of ability/confidence:p. This engine WILL run, but I'm no longer confident of how good it will look compared to the others I'm seeing. More to come soon.
 
I did promise an update but unfortunately it's not going to happen today. I just got a call that my Dad (who lives in the country) has managed to half chop his left thumb off with a power hacksaw (it wasn't running at the time. Long story). So I'm off to help them get some stuff sorted. Sorry.

At least I got one shop day yesterday...
 
Well it's been a long time coming, but finally I have a bit of a progress report.

Firstly, Dad is doing well, his thumb is pretty well secured in place and his other bangs and bruises will heal.

Now, on to my engine. If you recall, I had limited materials available, so I had to make bits that I had stock for. I machined up the valves from the shaft of an old printer (wonderful sources of all sorts of useful bits), turning about 1/4" at a time to eliminate flex. I made 3 (nearly) identical, and will make a valve seat cutter from the extra one. I also followed Brian's lead and left lots of extra material on the head end so I've got something to hold onto for lapping.

I spun down a section of 7/8" brass I had and machined up the valve cages and valve retainers. It might seem like a waste of material to make tiny parts from an oversize bar, but I really wanted to keep moving forward. These were nice and easy and I had no issues.

Next up I decided to satisfy my own curiosity and see what would happen if I tried to make miter gears using my home-made gear 'hob'. I just couldn't visualise what it would do with 5 cutters all cutting on a 45 degree angle. So I chucked up another piece of the 7/8" brass, made a couple of blanks and had a go. The results are...weird. The teeth are a bit strange looking, and they all mush together as they get towards the centre, but the bits that run together seem like they may work. I'll probably end up trying them out before I purchase a real set.

Flushed with success of sorts, and with a new injection of fresh material, I started on the cylinder head. Cutting and shaping was my normal tedious affair, with much checking and measuring and I managed to approximate the correct shape. I then centered it under my mill and bored the counterbore - almost a full millimetre off centre:mad:! I didn't pick up my error at that point though and continued on... As I had the centre of the counterbore, I used the wonderfully dimensioned plans to move all around the head boring the valve cage holes, milling the spark plug slot and drilling the bolt circle. I had to keep returning to the centre after each operation, just to make sure I was still on track, as I haven't milled from a central point like that before. All went well and I was happy that my head was looking good. Then I drilled and tapped the spark plug thread and glued the valve cages in place.

This post is getting very long so I'll split it here. Next up - the water hopper!
 
Cogsy--That is a wonderful bunch of progress... So--Did you discover your 1mm out of center before you drilled all the rest of the holes. Is the head ruined or are you going to be able to use it?--We love pictures!!!--Glad your dad still has all his digits!!!-Brian
 
I picked up a nice chunk of 5083 ali about 2" x 2-1/2" x 8" and spent what felt like 2 hours hand hacksawing a lump off it. Then I squared it up on the mill and faced it to just oversize, to allow for my any errors I was sure to make :p.

I used my boring head on the mill to bore it, but it turns out I don't have a long enough cutter to bore as deep as I needed to, so I had to come in from both sides. I was concerned about doing that but it worked for me this time. Once I had the bore and both end steps machined, I hogged out most of the pocket with drills, then milled the pocket to shape. After that I cheated and used transfer punches to mark, drill and tap the bolt circle from the head to the hopper. It was at this point that I discovered the off centre counterbore on the head :fan:. Once I'd finished my tantrum, jammed most of my hair back into my scalp and had a good think about the problem, I came to the conclusion that I may still be able to use the head as-is, but I won't be blending the water hopper to suit, in case I have to make another head in the future. I MAY make another head anyway, even if this one does work, but not just yet.

Another slog with the dreaded hacksaw yielded a blank for the hopper lid and a square blank for the rear water hopper retainer. The lid was a fairly straightforward piece of machining (once I worked out how to hold the piece at the correct angle) and I got that done quickly. The square blank for the retainer I drilled and mounted on a mandrel in the lathe. I'm used to interrupted cuts from my experiments with a wood lathe years ago and it was an easy job to turn it round. Then it was on to the mill to open out the bore. Again I used transfer punches to mark the bolt circle and finish the retainer by drilling and countersinking the bolt circle. Then I drilled and tapped the hopper (transfer punches again) and everything bolts together nicely.

Turning back to the cylinder head, I drilled the ports and drilled and tapped the mountings for the carby and exhaust. The only thing left to do on it is the 3 holes for the rocker arm mount to bolt to. as you are no doubt aware by now, I need to use transfer punches wherever possible to have a hope of bolt holes matching up, so I needed the rocker arm mount at this point.

I needed a piece of mild steel 5/16" x 3/4" x 1-3/4" and I came up with a length of keysteel that was big enough. It was 1/2" thick but I milled it down to size. What I first thought was a simple little bracket turned out to have a 17 degree angle through half of it and really tested both my drawing reading ability and my machining capabilities. Don't get me wrong, the design and drawing are perfect, I just haven't had much experience with such technical items. Possibly the best part of this project so far has been how much I'm learning and extending my abilities.

Anyway, I spent a good chunk of today (fathers day here in Australia) out in my shed carefully extracting a complex rocker arm mount out of a lump of old keysteel. Happily, it turned out well, although maybe slightly different to the plan.

Next up I have to fit the rocker mount to the head, then it'll be onto either the push rod guide or the sides and base. Included in the photos below is the piston complete with cast iron rings, and the only half of the conrod that I want you to see :p. Fingers crossed my next update won't take as long as this one has. Thanks for looking!

y0tb.jpg


wsxd.jpg
 
Bloody MARVELOUS!!! Cogsy---This is exactly how people become good machinists. --By screwing up, hating yourself for it, and then plunging onward. Next time, you will remember that screw up, and take extra care, whatever you may be doing.--Its just blind good luck that the screw up happened on something of your own, and wasn't a machine shop job, where you would have to go over and tell the shop foreman that you had messed up. Great progress, great pictures, and a great recovery!!!---Brian
 
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Great work Cogsy, it's really coming together now. As to the bevel gears, you can't use a hobb to cut the teeth as it machines material off the teeth that are already cut, I tried it! That's when I bought a set of cutters. I don't have a power saw for metal either, so it's a lot of hand hack sawing on everything.

Paul.
 
Good Lord Guys!!! If I had to saw my material by hand, I would have never gotten into machining. I bought an old Jet 16" wood bandsaw and put a triple reduction on it to slow it down enough to cut metal with a bi-metal blade.
 
Hi Cogsy.Your engine is about all done up.Cogsy will be third.Looks like Gus will the number 9 to get his engine running.He is the silent killer. I concede.
Gave up two day fishing trip to cut two pulleys.Took two hours to remove excess metal. Its true pulleys just done at 5pm.
 
Don't worry Gus, it's not a race but I think you'll beat me anyway. I still have the side plates and base, push rod guide, push rod, cam, spark plug, ignition, exhaust, carby, flywheel shafts and probably many other small parts to go. I also have other commitments conspiring to keep me out of the shed for a while.

I did manage to get a useable rocker arm machined out of a 1/2" brass round bar today (I snuck it in while I was supposed to be making a part for work) but I won't be doing any more til the weekend at least, and next week is looking even worse!

Keep up the good work on yours, it's looking great!
 
Hi Cogsy,
Was joking.Gus should be taking his sweet time . Was an old work habit,I could not shake off.
When there is a big pile of work,it must be cleared off before another pile comes.

Snucking.

I had so much brass/alum/steel/bronze bar stocks in the plant, Precision Engine Lathes,Bridgeports and Okamoto Grinders and no time to build engines.This was 1980----2001. A day's paper work leaves me totally exhausted and time to go home.

Today will be an easy day fitting up the flywheel.shafts,con-rod etc.
 
I had a spare couple of minutes today, so I had a go at roughing out the side plates. A few million hacksaw strokes later, give or take a few, here they are. I stuck my rocker arm from the other day in there as well.

i73q.jpg


They're really roughly dimensioned/shaped, but I think the hard part's done.

Good news - my work has fallen through for the weekend so I'll be getting something done on my engine after all. Pity about the money but you can't have everything. Roll on Saturday!

I also had a close look at my hobbed miter gears and Swifty is absolutely right - they're useless after all. Now to decide whether to buy a set of gears or a proper cutter.
 
Hi Cogsy, I bought my set of Mod1 cutters from CTC tools. http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/StoreFront
I see that they are US$85 per set now, plus postage. They were about $100 all up in aussie dollars when I bought mine. You have to weigh up the cost of the gears against having a permanent set of cutters. I would strongly recommend getting the cutters if you can afford them.

Paul.
 

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