CNC Mill vs Lathe for first machine tool

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Dax

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Hey guys,

I'm "new" to the forum but I've been lurking around for a month or so.

I really want to start making small stirling engines. Possibly a flame licker at some point, and maybe some day far down the line a small IC engine. But mostly just stirling engines.

After doing a lot of research I was fairly dead set on buying a Taig lathe, and their milling attachment for simple facing operations. By the time I put together all the necessary parts, mounting board, motor, end drill, etc I’m looking at around $600-700 before buying any cutting tools.

That got me into the price range of the Seig lathes, which I entertained for a while because they have threading capabilities, but ultimately decided against these machines as I live in an apartment and have almost zero space available to build a machine shop, and I want small precision work.

After some more reading here I notice that a lot of people prefer the Sherline lathes over the Taig lathes, for several reasons I won’t go into here. I started looking at the Sherline and I would be paying at least $1000 for a Sherline lathe, without even getting the $120 milling attachment.

In my search for a better deal I came across someone selling a 3 axis Sherline CNC mill, with steppers, controller, power supply, etc. for $900. I’m now considering going with the CNC mill as my first machine tool, rather than the more traditional route of starting with a lathe. :hDe:

Having never built an engine before I’m speaking from ignorance, but I “think” that I should be able to use a CNC mill to create any engine parts that I need to. The only real limitation I can see is precision turning of pistons, which I could probably do by mounting it in the milling head and putting a lathe cutting tool in my vice.

So I ask the experts here, if you have CNC mill, do you really still *need* to have a lathe to build a model engine? Obviously having both would be better, and I might add a lathe at some point down the road. But I’m already way over budget here, and buying both at the same time just isn’t possible.

Any thoughts or guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Just mt $0.02:

If you have to choose, a manual lathe would be my recommendation for your first tool. While some of the operations normally done on a lathe can be done with a mill, it can take a lot of messing around to get the setup right - the lathe is a better choice.

Unless you are familiar with the CNC process, the CNC mill is not something I would recommend, even for your first mill. Most mills that are modified for CNC are not easily usable for manual milling operations.
 
I really want to start making small stirling engines. Possibly a flame licker at some point, and maybe some day far down the line a small IC engine. But mostly just stirling engines.

The recommended progression is start with air/steam engines then progress to ICs flame lickers Stirling engines etc.
flame lickers and stirlings require precision fits and a fine finish.
Can you build an engine entirely with a mill ?? yes it has been done.

General student progression for machine shop.
learn to saw file drill and tap. then learn manual lathe then manual mill then progress to cnc.

I suggest before you put out any money for tools learn as much as you can .Get and read books and watch good on line machining videos.

s far as the deal on the sherline cnc mill worst case is buy it temporarily turn it back to manual or set it up for manual and cnc if you can then later use as cnc . Or take cnc classes at a local college and jump in the deep end (After the swimming lessons)
Tin

Tin
 
I love my CNC tools but if I could only have one machine with your budget it would be a good manual lathe.
With a lathe, some knowledge, and time you can build most anything. Depending on your location I would first look for a good used benchtop Southbend, Logan, or Atlas. They don't take up all that much space and you could certainly fit it into an apartment.

Robert
 
Thanks for the input guys.

For better or worse the guy sold the CNC mill to someone else before I had a chance to look at it.

I ended up going with the Taig lathe, and their milling attachment. I also got a ton of accessories, the slitting saw, a fly cutter, tool bits, etc. However once I got home I realized that I didn't buy a chuck! I thought they came with the 3 jaw chuck, and the store was closed by the time I realized. Oh well.

I'm thinking of going with the 4 jaw independent chuck over the 3 jaw scroll chuck. Thoughts?
 
I prefer a 4-jaw..... Once you get the hang of dialing it in you find that it takes very little time to get everything setup.

Robert
 
Right. If you only have one chuck, 4 jaw is the one to have. You can add a three jaw later as they are handy.

I think the Taig will do a fine job for you.

Regards,

Chuck
 
I'm thinking of going with the 4 jaw independent chuck over the 3 jaw scroll chuck. Thoughts?


Right. If you only have one chuck, 4 jaw is the one to have. You can add a three jaw later as they are handy.

I think the Taig will do a fine job for you.

Agreed!!
the taig has a good rep I considered one for first lathe. And you are wise to learn to use a 4 jaw to start off with make sure you have a dial and or test indicator in your kit.

sooo what will the first engine be ?????
Tin
 
It is best to start with a steam/air powered engine. There are many good designs by Elmer Verburg found at http://www.john-tom.com/html/ElmersEngines.html. Probably the best/simplest to start with would be #25 Wobbler. This was my first engine. I have also built #19 Standby, #37 Grasshopper, #2 Twin Vertical Wobbler, #46 Comber Rotary, and #5 Geared. Good luck with your first engine and please share your progress.
 
Walk before you run. I can appreciate that.

I decided to start with a wobbler, as is tradition. This weekend I managed to make the frame and the foot, milled down to final size, drill the holes and tap the bottom of the frame. I also cut and threaded the pivot pin because I wanted to play with the dies.

I couldn't find any 5-40 nuts anywhere locally, so I made the pivot pin in 6-32. And likewise for the base to foot connection.

I need to wait for my 3/8th reamer to arrive in the mail before I work on the cylinder, but I might do the flywheel next.
 

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