#52 Today I have a few more pictures, and a few more parts to show.
To make the 'valve rod' I machined down a 1/8" brass rod to the first diameter of .086". The second diameter was 1/16" by 5/16" long. I used .005" cuts to keep the rod from flexing and climbing up on the cutter. This is the usual problem with machining small diameters on long rods.
#53 Both ends of the 'valve rod' were threaded 2-56. One end will bolt to the 'valve crossbar', and the other to the valve 'nut'.
#54 I made a quick and easy drilling jig to cross drill the three 1/16" pivot pins on the 'rocker shaft' and two 'rocker arms'. The fixture simplified drilling all three #70 holes in identical locations.
#55 I installed the pivot pins with Loctite rather than soldering them in place. The holes they went in to were reamed, and the 1/16" rod material was a light press fit (wringing fit) that could cause a poor solder joint, but is perfectly suited for an anaerobic retaining compound.
#56 The piston and rod were strait forward and need little or no explanation. Since the piston and 1/8" rod were threaded 5-40, I made the nuts by re-threading a pair of brass 4-40 nuts on hand. This is a nice alternative to using larger standard 5-40 nuts.
#57 Here's a picture of scrap material being machined down to size. I know (yawn) this picture is not all that interesting, but its the only 'live action' shot in this post, so enjoy!
#58 All of that exciting milling produced the three sizes of steel material that will be used along with two diameters of drill rod for building the 'connecting rod' assembly. (Rod's not shown in this picture).
#59 It took a bit of thought to figure out how to make the two small end pivot blocks with the required degree of accuracy. The best option was to make them on the ends of a 2" piece, and cut them off after the two 3/32" rods were attached. After I cross drilled both ends for the 3/32" pivot holes, I drilled and reamed the ends 1/16" for the rods.This detail is missing in the original drawing and gives the impression that ends (for the long rods) are drilled 3/32". This is impossible since the ends are also 3/32" thick! To make this assembly possible the 3/32" rods needed to be machined down to a 1/16" diameter by .080" long. This machining was done with the utmost care to assure a tight fit into the reamed holes in the pivot's ends.
#60 The picture below shows how I managed to make this assembly work. I Loctited in one end, and set it aside for curing.
#61 After one end cured I cut it off from the parent material and Loctited in the second rod. After the second rod set up it was also was cut off. With the pivot ends attached to the rods, finishing them up with a radius was simple milling. I used the standby method of using the existing holes to pivot the ends on a pin against a small four flute end mill.
#62 Machining the "triple tree" (motorcycle term) part of the 'connecting rod' assembly was very easy. I used scribed lines to mark the "stop points" on the pre-drilled material for the lathe bit. Last year I couldn't imagine machining this part. It was this years addition of a four jaw independent chuck, and another season of machining practice, that made making this part not only possible, but also very easy.
#63 The final picture below shows the completed 'Connecting Rod' assembly. Rather than applying a Parkerized finish, a Tool Black finish, a blued finish, or painted finish, I decided to leave it "in the white' and applied a 'poly type' automotive surface sealant to protect the raw steel.
Bling, Bling!
http://www.blingdetailking.com/content/view/7/30/
-MB