dnalot
Project of the Month Winner !!!
I tend to juggle a half dozen projects at a time and every once in a while something actually gets completed. This time its the Bottle Engine project. The engine is of my own design and all the casting, machining, anodizing and plating were done in my home shop.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zv-FsHuod1U&feature=youtu.be
For some reason the engine almost always stops in the correct position to start again without having to give the flywheel a push. In the video I am using 60 pounds of air pressure. When I feed it 100 PSI the engine becomes extremely powerful at low RPM and gripping the small pulley will make the engine flip over and slam the table hard.
Brief description; Steam, Single cylinder Double acting Type, Bore 1.75", Stroke 2" (cm4.45, cm5.08). The Engine was primarily constructed of aluminum with a bronze cylinder sleeve and a one piece steel crankshaft with counterweights. To give you some idea of scale, Height 15" flywheel 6". (cm 38.09, cm 15.2)
I did not use any packing seals, relying instead on long tight fitting bushings. "O" rings were used for the piston rings. The shuttle valve is made of soft brass and it slides on a spring bronze plate inlayed into the back of the steam chest.
All Aluminum parts were anodized to give a nice silver/grey look. All steel parts except the crankshaft were nickel plated to prevent corrosion. The piston rod and the eccentric rod were made of S.S. The piston is aluminum and has two "O" rings for the seal. I did nickel plate one brass part and thats the steam in-port and out-port manifold.
I wanted the engine to look smooth and graceful with as few fasteners and fittings as possible. I think it looks great and it runs as good as it looks. This is my second engine and unlike the first there are no clickity click sounds. I'm getting better at machining tight fits that align properly.
The cast parts are the bottle, base and flywheel. For information about the castings see this earlier post.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f36/bottle-engine-21080/index2.html
Mark Toland Mossyrock Washington
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zv-FsHuod1U&feature=youtu.be
For some reason the engine almost always stops in the correct position to start again without having to give the flywheel a push. In the video I am using 60 pounds of air pressure. When I feed it 100 PSI the engine becomes extremely powerful at low RPM and gripping the small pulley will make the engine flip over and slam the table hard.
Brief description; Steam, Single cylinder Double acting Type, Bore 1.75", Stroke 2" (cm4.45, cm5.08). The Engine was primarily constructed of aluminum with a bronze cylinder sleeve and a one piece steel crankshaft with counterweights. To give you some idea of scale, Height 15" flywheel 6". (cm 38.09, cm 15.2)
I did not use any packing seals, relying instead on long tight fitting bushings. "O" rings were used for the piston rings. The shuttle valve is made of soft brass and it slides on a spring bronze plate inlayed into the back of the steam chest.
All Aluminum parts were anodized to give a nice silver/grey look. All steel parts except the crankshaft were nickel plated to prevent corrosion. The piston rod and the eccentric rod were made of S.S. The piston is aluminum and has two "O" rings for the seal. I did nickel plate one brass part and thats the steam in-port and out-port manifold.
I wanted the engine to look smooth and graceful with as few fasteners and fittings as possible. I think it looks great and it runs as good as it looks. This is my second engine and unlike the first there are no clickity click sounds. I'm getting better at machining tight fits that align properly.
The cast parts are the bottle, base and flywheel. For information about the castings see this earlier post.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f36/bottle-engine-21080/index2.html
Mark Toland Mossyrock Washington
