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Corinth, far up in the northeast corner of the state. Like you, there doesn’t seem like there’s anyone close by.
Well Guys, I hate to disappoint you but they are all here in Washington State. I am constantly surprised by the number of guys here and it seems to keep growing. Oh, there is one guy in close by Idaho.
 
Hello,

if the time comes I would love to see (fotos) read something about he gear hobbing machine.

Greetings Timo
Timo, the gear cutter lives in the pocket between the shop’s tool-up door and the milling machine where it’s not easy to get decent photos. The photos below were taken while the machine was briefly moved outside for some need shop cleaning and are a bit washed out by the bright sunshine. The machine has a bad case of paint scabies, but otherwise is in excellent condition, all the ways still have their original scraping with very little visible wear. I plan the strip it and repaint it, hopefully this summer. I got it with the original bill of sale and full set of drawings. Pages and pages of them. It will cut straight and spiral gears from 3/8”to 4” pitch diameter. It can also cut worm gears and wheels. The information that came with it states there is an attachment that makes it possible to cut bevel gears, but I have never come across such.
 

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Here’s a photo of the gear cutting in it’s parking spot, where it sleeps under a tarp.. I put it in heavy machine casters, 700lb capacity per caster, and it is easy to move out for use. The other photo is of two commercial hobs, in the back, and one of the ones I’ve made using the form relieving attachment for the Logan lathe. The relieving attachment is of J. A. Radford design.
 

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Here’s a photo of the gear cutting in it’s parking spot, where it sleeps under a tarp.. I put it in heavy machine casters, 700lb capacity per caster, and it is easy to move out for use. The other photo is of two commercial hobs, in the back, and one of the ones I’ve made using the form relieving attachment for the Logan lathe. The relieving attachment is of J. A. Radford design.
That looks very interesting. I was not aware of that machine brand. Can you mount hobs with different inner diameters?
As I understand for hobbing worms the hob is almost parallel to the work piece? Similar to pair two bolts with their heads pointing in oposite directions and then spinning on the hob clockwise and the workpiece counterclockwise? In that case do you feed the hob axially into the work?
setup.jpg
I am hobbing metric :) it keeps calculating blank sizes at elementary school level.
I once tried to hob a worm, but desaster striked, lack of almost everything. (rigidity, speed of the workpiece spindle, torque of both spindles).
Quite some things that leave room for improvement on my modified milling machine, a mid air flying hob and when the hob angle is changed it affects z-height as well as x position. This makes cutting helical gears a pain to set up, because I even need to move the workpiece spindle to the other end of the milling table. Besides having to figure out workpiece rotation and blank diameter. (pushing me a little out of the comfort zone above elementary school)
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Greetings Timo
 
I have three hob arbors, 8mm, 3/4” and 20mm. The sizes of hobs the machine can use range from 20mm in diameter to 1 3/4”. As for cutting worms, the arrangement of hob and blank is as you describe. They can be cut either by feeding axially, in which case the machine feeds automatically, or by manually raising the hob into the blank. Cutting worm wheels is done by raising the hob into the blank manually.
 
I have three hob arbors, 8mm, 3/4” and 20mm. The sizes of hobs the machine can use range from 20mm in diameter to 1 3/4”. As for cutting worms, the arrangement of hob and blank is as you describe. They can be cut either by feeding axially, in which case the machine feeds automatically, or by manually raising the hob into the blank. Cutting worm wheels is done by raising the hob into the blank manually.
Did you ever make some gear boxes?. I was thinking of making some model scale industrial gear boxes, just for fun.K1600_IMG_3810.JPG But is very low on my list.

For the bevel gears do you have any idea how that attachment you are talking about looks like? Maybe it can be manufactured. I would like to make some, but have no clue if his can be hobbed wiht a normal hob.

Greetings Timo
 
The manual that came with the gear cutter merely mentions the bevel gear attachment and gives no description or pictures. I’ve looked on line but have not found anything about it. My machine was made in 1953, so the lack of information is not surprising.

As for gear boxes, I made a few. This is the vertical head I made for my Hardinge TM mill.
 

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Here’s another, a 10:1 gear reduction with reverse that drives the lead screw. I forget who designed this, but it was in Model Engineer in, I believe, the 1980’s. With this the lathe’s tumbler gears are used only for threading.
 

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So as I see you did not split it in two halfs (upper and lower), but the bearings are inserted from the outside with a sort of flange.
I think I give this a go for the first trial. :) Thank you for this inspiration.

Greetings Timo
 
Here’s another, a 10:1 gear reduction with reverse that drives the lead screw. I forget who designed this, but it was in Model Engineer in, I believe, the 1980’s. With this the lathe’s tumbler gears are used only for threading.
Thank you for taking me back to modifications. I recall in the early 50's a Martin Cleeve bought 'half a new Myford ML7) he was rather piir) and he added things like a small geear box with just enough cogs to cut his threads( and write a book on it) and swing tools for screwcuting and boroning and a smalll myriad of things for him to make a linving on his lathe when he lost his ordinary job.

With an American gent we tied to re-publish it at our own cost but sadly ean into copyrifht threats

So thanks


Regards


Norman
 
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